We put the frenzy in Firenze. To mark Jeremy Scott’s first contact with Pitti – the crucial crucible of must-wear menswear – Moschino presents a high-speed collision of past and future. Point of impact? Now.
Think Valentino Rossi meets Fred Astaire. Imagine Staying Alive spliced with 2001: A Space Odyssey. There’s a sniff of Jimi Hendrix, a dash of Prince, a soupçon of Louis XVI – and a whole lot of Scott.
Points of commonality? A dedication to display – seriously playful peacocking – that’s only heightened by the elegance of Scott’s refusal to acknowledge the pigeonhole-categories of codified menswear. Smart vs informal? Just not normal.
So, display. Think of the stylised sponsors’ badges of honour that are worn, skin-tight, by the petrol-head warriors of Moto GP. Crash that image into the tailcoated insouciance of old-school eveningwear.
Then take it back, pre-industrial, to unabashedly decadent ruffle and kerfuffle of 18th century masculine power dressing. Factor in brocade, candy-stripe, and cartoonery. Then lay it over right-this-minute streetwear silhouettes.
In 2016 there is nothing to stop you wearing whatever the hell you want – except its availability. This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athleisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.
For the SS2016 Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection Stefano Pilati juxtaposes the brand’s very own nature of sartorial leadership and heritage in noble fibers with a refreshing expression of masculine identity.
The plethora of fabrics is the undisputed protagonist of the SS16 collection: from the exclusive trans seasonal Double Century Cashmere, super fine Lanificio Zegna wools, silks, a range of cottons to luxurious Japanese textiles.
The attitude is relaxed and sportified but with a delicate elegant summery allure, an accurate balance of fluidity, transparency and lightness : all elements dear to womenswear newly translated this season, to create a new code for a stylish masculine and contemporary personality.
The contrasting volumes reveal unconventional ways of silhouettes: flowing trousers, classics but subtly detailed, evident or hidden, in their construction are paired with nonchalance either to oversized outerwear or elegantly tight fitted, single or double breasted jackets, studied for an innovative and extremely light way of tailoring; or with floating summer coats, multi pocketed gilets, bomber jackets and draped blousons, alongside shirts and overcoats that intersperse the vocabulary of men’s wardrobe icons.
Essential is also the wide range of accessories all made with eco sustainable metal-free leather, following the “mission” Zegna started last season introducing the Eco-leader campaign.
The colorful symphony of micro and macro Madras patterns play with shades of beautiful “non-whites”, as well as mid toned or dark toned looks framed by optical white and total black.
The blend of “new” and “classic”, perfectly embodied by the Broken Suit concept, is the intrinsic overall angle of Stefano Pilati’s design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and wisely reflects Zegna’s heritage and DNA through a distinctive and innovative timeless aesthetic.
MORE THAN DETAILS
It is the art of tailoring which dictates the rules for Corneliani, even when they are overturned. While rigorous construction and exquisite materials – cotton, linen and silk through to the results of the highest textile technology – remain untouched, it is the volumes which are fashioning a new language.
At the heart of the revolution lies the body’s centre of gravity, sending out concentric waves of elegance with opposite meanings. They are instantly embraced and taken to such heights of sophistication and synthesis that only the faintest hint remains of the original dichotomy: there are whispered tribal echoes, as seen in the neo-Prince of Wales patterns and flattened matting effects, and in the trousers with outstanding pleats, a nod to the sarongs worn by ancient man. More than a mere accessory, the longer waistband which clinches the waist becomes a frontal structural feature which celebrates the return of the high waist.
The same non-conformist rigour is found in the new suit, which now comes with Bermuda shorts too. Supremely elegant pinstripes trace vertical lines on linen designs, creating a degree of lightness which only the independence of inborn class can afford.
Trench coats come with large pleats on the back, in lengths which fall gracefully to the calf, taking the pockets with them – sartorial details which are now filled with spontaneous style. Squared-off jackets are almost surgical in feel, while cuts are stripped down to a minimum in the ultra-simple loose leather T-shirts.
Colours are never intense, but rather delicately powdery, suspended in the atmosphere of a desert sunset. Periwinkle sky blue, sandy beige and the palest stone grey are lit up by a sunshine amaranth red.
What emerges is an independent personality, rooted so firmly in the rules of elegant style that it enables the Corneliani man to make the decisive jump on his pathway to freedom.