Watch the Burberry Prorsum Menswear Spring Summer 2014 show in Live Streaming, Tuesday 18 June at 2pm London time.
London is the creative heart of Burberry and our global headquarters, so we are incredibly excited to be showing our next men’s collection here. The country’s proud menswear heritage and outstanding contemporary talent give it a unique and powerful energy. It is a wonderful time to be bringing our menswear show home’. Christopher Bailey, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
AUSTERITY AND THE YEARNING FOR FEMININITY
THE DISCREET CHARM OF THE ERMANNO SCERVINO WOMAN
A stage set that allows us to glimpse, through vast sheets of tulle, large windows overlooking Florence and precious candelabra hanging from the ceilings, evoking the atmosphere of exclusive moments.
In this eclectic setting, where the future lies in the retrieval of tradition, in juxtaposing elements from different periods and creating a dialogue between them, the Ermanno Scervino woman takes to the runway.
Thus the collection for the forthcoming winter proposes the contamination of genres, in a new language for a woman with no holds barred.
Masculine fabrics, such as grey flannel illuminated by Swarovski crystals, interpret the original shapes of the coats, hugging the figure to delineate bust and waist.
Redolent of the bikers’ world are the padded reinforcements, the zipper closures and the open revers of calf-length coats in angora, leather and leopard-print fur, clasped at the waist.
Fur becomes a lead motif, played asymmetrically: enwrapping a sleeve or in the form of a majestic collar, falling to become a stole over soft, masculine-cut coats and jackets.
Asymmetrical cuts for the mini-dresses too, which next winter will be in softer, more fluid silks. Wasp-waisted, constructed silhouettes for the leather dresses.
Knitwear is illuminated by Swarovski crystals or engraved with phytomorphic embroideries in sensual tops to be matched with asymmetrical skirts.
And then a swathe of stunning material contrasts for the evening, where couture fabrics draw inspiration from the world of sports, like the biker-corset dresses in organza and chiffon, or organza skirts and gowns with patchwork inserts in flannel or leather.
The collection is rounded off by jewel accessories, such as the metal belts of art deco inspiration revamped in biker style and costume jewellery spattered with baguette-cut stones.
Bags and small leather goods
The new Bat Bag in mauve python and in leopard-print fur, the biker version Faubourg Bag in black nappa calfskin.
D’orsay pumps and court shoes.
Flannel, angora wool, leather and python, organza, crepe de chine and crepe silks.
Greys, from dove to anthracite, off whites and glacé, mauve and burgundy, navy blue and black.
Images that bring the story to life; a mood board in emotional sequence; snapshots of details and stolen moments from which emerges the elegance of Ann Bofoey Taylor, a horseback riding and skiing enthusiast – these are the starting points for the Moschino Fall/Winter 2013-14.
Added to this is the desire for reinterpretation, expressing the most classic, essentially Moschino pieces of clothing with the same declaration of heartfelt love for the British world.
The search begins, from tartan and its colors, for fabrics with the same visual impact and identity. This is a conscious choice, a Scottish-mania expressed in the fabrics, in the gold-embroidered badges, in the Scotland Yard caps, in the red roses and in the embossed Ms that brighten the most colorful tartans.
Men’s-style suits revisited, but always very precise and worn with classic-cut white shirts, uniforms that somewhat recall Japanese schoolgirls and a nod to the style of the countryside with pieces from the equestrian world. The final part of the show “falls back in line” with the absolutely irreplaceable black and white outfits.
Changes and play with fabric, made-up stories and revisited ones, with the only certainty whispered, smiling: “plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose” [“The more things changes, the more they remain the same”]