Watch the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 24th September 2016 7 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Watch the Blumarine Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 24th September 2016 12.30 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Waves with infinite motion sheltered by thè sinuous outlines of mountains. During her long solitary walks to thè lake, Zhu Chongyun, thè visionary creative director and owner of Krizia, envisaged a delicate iconographic bridge between thè East and thè West, between thè ancient hi story ofthe Fashion House and its contemporary and global future. A romantic and sweet concept shaken by Constant interruptions, by discontinuity of style, unexpected colours, thè result of spending lots of time at thè historical archive of Via Womanin in Milan.
The iconic symbols return but without nostalgia or second thoughts. The past is blended into a current version of pure and direct lines that conceal surprises. A continuous, sophisticated reinterpretation of memories that acquire a contemporary vibe. A three-dimensional “haiku” And, even if everyone expects thè usuai tiger, this time it will be a new tiger. A different one.
The Krizia feline is back with a sharp style, printed, jacquard multicolour or lasered leather. It is concealed in fabrics with macro and micro flourishes, with fun camouflage effects. On blouse-sweaters, tank top dresses, laser cut leather and metal accessories, thè Symbol ofan era becomescolourful and pop. Fun and never dull.This isthe Krizia tiger.
And thè same applies to pleats, flounces and rouches, which become a petal on male jackets, a serrated biade on thè shoulder, an over-the-top handkerchief or a side fan tied with a ribbon. Precious details create a fusion between art and fashion, as in thè statuesque evening and cocktail dresses, embellished just like works of art. Waves are repeated and spread throughout thè collection, from thè shoulder strap of a shopping macro pochette in leather or fabric to fiat sabots.
The fabrics used are precious and innovative: wool threads with crisp silk, mohair with organza, stretch and pleats, thè result of cutting-edge technology and many special collaborations with ItaIian master craftsmen. Colours range from soft ice-cream and lake blue to light water blue and iridescent gold, connecting thè East and thè West.
“YOU’VE GOT TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST TO REACH THE VALLEY OF THE DOLLS”
Way before Barbie there were paper dolls: 2D, hand-drawn mannequins delivered on the page with their own illustrated wardrobes. For his Spring Summer 2017 Moschino collection, Jeremy Scott finds inspiration in this original game of cut and paste for girls of taste.
Plus to muster that sweet, hard rush of insta-gratification for this season’s instantly-shoppable offering, Scott turns to another genre of ‘Dolls’ – as Jacqueline Susann termed them in her scandalous novel of 1966. It’s a capsule collection with a powerful dose of capsules.
Deploying trompe l’oeil detailing, angled illustrative flourish, and a first-look ’til last-look motif that echoes the white tabs of the original paper dolls, the collection is a Moschino-flavoured reverie on the ceremony of personal facade. It begins with a spaghetti strapped, slimly fitted shift dress that suddenly furls mid-calf to echo the foldable stand of the original paper dolls: its front is illustrated to make the wearer seem deshabille, in black bra and panties. She is the template, ready to be outfitted.
Early looks echo the joyous source code of the house’s creator: Franco Moschino’s signature black on red polka dot, his chains, that peace sign, those teddy bears. But those pearls are flattened panels, that bling is painted on, and those bears ain’t there. Whimsically subversive agit-chic. Dada-touched irreverence. A sly examination of stereotype that extends to the set: the gold chairs with red-velvet cushions, an intimate, half-raised, red-carpeted runway. A boldly old school reset.
What you see and what you get are never in sync. An apparently half shrugged-on trench coat, with a wickedly manicured hand just visible at its lapel, is nothing of the sort. What is ostensibly a capelet in pastel paint-by-numbers floral that seems to balloon below it certainly isn’t. Keep looking.
Scott takes a trip. Hoodies and sweats, quilted and chain-strewn leather minis, faux-kini bodies, Daisy Duke fishnet leggings, bikers and bombers, logo sportswear, washed denim: is this the real life, or just fantasy? The capsule of capsule strewn handbags, backpacks and dresses – plus a prescription pillbox clutch – hints at escape from reality.
The finale is a procession of augmented unreality eveningwear. Ruche and swoosh and swirl frozen in a 2D moment, yet 3D real. An interplay of true and skewed. From the front, a sugary hit of colour and flounce given hyper-real definition though illustrative steroid. From the back though, a blank. Paper dolls.