For Diesel Black Gold’s Fall-Winter 2015 collection, creative director Andreas Melbostad conjured up a singular look inspired by the different, contrasting forces behind the multifarious British tradition.
References to England’s impeccable tailoring heritage are combined with the subversive, irreverent influences of the country’s iconic youth subcultures.
Giving cohesiveness to the collection, disparate elements are blended together and unified by an intense research on materials and techniques.
Textures are at the core of the lineup. The brand’s iconic denim pieces are washed, coated, distressed, patched to obtain the same rich hands of traditional tailoring fabrics, such as tweeds, checks, tartans, houndstooth and Prince of Wales. These are worked for signature outerwear pieces, such as a Donegal tweed trench with denim details and industrial zippers.
Tartan wool pants with applied pockets and zips are over dyed to get a darker, faded effect. Their punkish attitude contrasts with the sartorial sensibility of a coat and a blazer layered over a utilitarian nylon zippered vest and a crispy checked shirt.
Military references run through the collection injecting a sense of strong, assertive masculinity into wool jackets and coats, embellished with patches, chains, safety pins for a customized look.
Traditional British school uniforms are re-interpreted through the collections’ signature irreverent lens. A rebellious attitude informs striped blazers and rugby sweatshirts, adding graphic tones to the the palette of black, blue, indigo, charcoal, sage, military green and red.
Missoni Men’s F/W 2015 collection draws inspiration from the artist, both as muse and expressive force as he travels along the Trans-Siberian-Manchurian rail line; a steel-tracked metaphor of man’s longing for discovery and adventure.
Steadily gaining momentum, our artist sits in idle observance as a melange of imagery swiftly passes before his eyes. The piercing wilderness of Russian, Mongolian and Chinese terrains, indigenous tribes and eclectic cultures blur one into the other and arouse his senses.
Immersed in this epic journey, his noble function is to give form and cohesion to this convergence of unrelenting stimuli and unrestrained emotions. In transit even while standing still, this collection captures the romantic essence of the artist and his experiences, exhibiting a certain painterly dynamism in static motion.
The Missoni man is romantically draped in softly tailored and oversized pieces executed in chunky cashmere, fluid cashmere-silk blends, felted lambswool, feathery, speckled wools and artfully crafted pelage-like yarns that luxuriously weather the Siberian climate while respecting the traditional fibers of the regions.
Somber hues of black, forest green, auburn, mineral brown, claret camel, ink and pewter reflect the passing landscape of imposing mountains, wild rivers, thick forests, and lush fields while strokes of bright amber, bamboo green, poppy red, Prussian blue and cornflower mimic the random spattering of distant villages and the colorful and graphic dress of their inhabitants.
Key elements to this season’s collection include: double-breasted coats, degradè-checked suits and oversized, loom-knit coats that have been wefted with either space-dyed tape to achieve an ikat effect or compact, wool-boucle yarn for a toweling effect—all created on Missoni’s exclusive, heritage looms in Sumirago; plaid, cashmere shirts that liken artists’ smocks and customary, regional tunics; macro, shawl-neck cardigans, realized in chunky, space-dyed cashmere, that resemble traditional robes worn in Central Asia; reversible, cashmere travel suits; and degradè, speckled wool/mohair hand-knits.
Sporadic flourishes of embroidered flowers can be found on many of the pieces throughout the collection that, from afar, liken haphazard paint splashes and, up close, bear a resemblance to the artistically elaborate embellishments traditionally found on regionally native garments. These irregularly-placed embroideries have also been applied to suede boots that finish each look to perfection.
This season once again welcomes the collaborative efforts of Missoni and Converse with a silk sports boot that incorporates an elasticated cashmere sock.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2015
Italo Zucchelli, Men’s Creative Director
Powerful. Cinematic. Monochrome. Introducing the men’s Fall 2015 Calvin Klein Collection. A modern and compelling interpretation of menswear essentials. Iconic silhouettes rendered in rich fabrics and textures; a gray spectrum inspired by classic black and white films.
Silhouettes. Outerwear and sportswear pieces are executed in extreme proportions, balancing the oversized with the form-fitting, and are layered throughout to create depth. The aviator jacket features a shearling collar and is cropped and tailored close to the body, while double breasted overcoats, parkas and capes are voluminous and generously fit. Matte rubber finish snaps and thick metal zippers add an industrial element. Juxtapositions persist with pants that are either high-waisted and tapered through the leg or loose and relaxed. Lightweight mohair and chunky Fair Isle sweaters with mesh inserts provide an added dimension. For evening, the double breasted peak lapel tuxedo is modernized with an upturned collar.
Materials. A range of weighted materials – bonded flannel, mélange wool and cashmere, printed tweed and mohair – amplify the strength and multi-dimensional feel of the collection. Surfaces are highlighted in glossy vinyl or embossed cheetah and leopard prints.
Colors. Grayscale. The palette is tonal and monochromatic, ranging from white to black with hues of light heather, basalt, granite, gotham, charcoal heather and anthracite in between.
Accessories. Rugged and utilitarian. Field boots, in smooth calf or patent leather, are featured throughout the collection in either high or low top styles. Each pair is designed with an oversized box toe and is accented with a front-zip ankle cuff. Commuter bags, portfolios, pouches and travel wallets in printed haircalf or shearling are carried together and complement the coordinating separates. A luxe take on the baseball cap combines leather with wool, croc or nylon mesh.