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ICEBERG SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Iceberg © Copyright 2014

“Rebirth in nature”

A journey deep into Nature. Exploration of the natural universe. Ultimately leading us on a path toward self awareness and self discovery. Introspection and natural essence: two distinct worlds that the Iceberg man always makes his own.

The rigor of the design process keeps apparent disorder in line. That’s the Iceberg way: as in Nature, it’s the secret to attaining perfection, passing through creative chaos.

Soft ergonomic shapes. A fine ‘90s flair, contemporary street style. Natural ease of motion, for the blithest of moods. A palette of earth tones, sky nuances, floral hues: brown, beige, orange, blue. Hints of azure and fuchsia shades.

Prints expressing an oneiric idea of Nature. Macro abstract rose petals offset by flashes of chromatic contrast. Colorful plumes in fanciful formation as a symbol of community belonging. And then tie-dye motifs for a sense of total freedom, pure escape.

A tribute to brand archives: Mickey Mouse in arty avant-garde version. Silk, cotton, cashmere and linen: pure natural fibers. Cotton with a slick techno finish, yet also with all the appeal of a perfectly natural fabric.

 

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Wed, July 9 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MSGM SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Msgm © Copyright 2014

X(ex) Cruel stories of youth.

Showing the video by Motus* “Je me cherche”. “Je veux dire: le rien, le vide, tout le monde le voit partout… mais moi je résiste, j’essaie, je veux que quelque chose arrive. Abolir le temps mort, être en écoute permanent… assumer le risque de s’exposer à la première personne.”

Alghiero Boetti’s beautiful maps as inspiration. His embroidered tapestries. “The infinite Possibilities of Existence”. “Encounters and Challenges”. His free and inventive use of language.

Teddy Boy Grunge: words with strong connotations of the USA of the fifties and sixties for an eighties silhouette. WONDERLUST, GROOVY, MAMAS BOY. Pineapples and Cactus are borrowed from nature, and are turned into prints, embroidery and knits.

Ferns are borrowed from interior décor and turned into clothing. But everything can co-exist, even in a single piece: ferns are interrupted by flags, and flags are interrupted by black&white optical warning tape.

“Signs and Design”. “Give Time to Time”. “Hungry for Wind”. “Attracting Attention”. “For new Desires”.

The cactus are on canvas and batiste. The ferns are on crisp poplin and wool flannel. The spots are on cotton canvas. The hound’s-tooth on linen.

Multicoloured rugby stripes on sweatshirts. The optical flags are on nylon. The gingham is large on piqué polo shirts, and inserted in knitwear. Polos are the new shirts. Shirts are the new sweatshirt. The cotton tunic the new t-shirt.

Wide trousers with darts and wide off-the-shoulder tops. Box shirts and maxi bermuda boxers. The New Comfortable. Pink, mauve, light blue, turquoise, yellow. And beige, blue, military green and black.

This story only has one tune in the background: “I walk alone” by the Californian indie band YACHT.

“I see immense beauty in the work in the Embroidered Map. I had no part in that work, I made no choices, as the world is as it is and I did not design it, flags are what they are and I did not design them. In short, I did absolutely nothing: when the basic idea, the concept appears, everything else is no longer a choice”. A Boetti

 

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Fri, July 4 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION SPRING 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Calvin Klein Collection © Copyright 2014

Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2015
Italo Zucchelli, Men’s Creative Director

Graphic lines. Bright hues. Bold statements. A sharp palette of summery, high energy brights are grounded with essential neutrals and modernized with layers of transparency. A sporty yet elegant simplicity pervades in updated versions of classic menswear pieces.

Silhouettes. Lightweight and lightly textured cotton tanks and t shirts, rounded and curved, add a soft, cool layer under bright, transparent blousons and jackets. Some layers are purposefully neutral, while others are more richly hued for a more vibrant pop of color. The bomber, lightly quilted in mesh and softly padded, is tailored to hit just above the waist, often with a peek of color or skin. Following last season, pants are slim and lean and offered in cotton tech stretch and bonded wool, always with a turned up cuff. Suiting is refreshed by mixing colors and fabrications for fresh combinations. The double breasted peak lapel tuxedo, modernized yet elegant, with a statement monochromatic or contrasting stripe on the trouser side seam.

Materials. A second skin. A sexy, athletic spirit underpins jackets and tops rendered cool in sleek nylons, luxuriously soft leathers, and modern materials like PVC. Richly textural, lightweight and exotic, eel becomes a highlight when rendered as a baseball jacket or a tank top. Dense cottons and bonded wools contrast with layers of microtexture mesh to create a mix of surfaces in unique combinations. Iconic men’s trunk and boxer brief underwear styles, layered and rendered in light mesh, give a nod to an important heritage of the house.

Colors. Heat. Confident, intensely bright and saturated shades of solar yellow, tangerine, and vermilion red add depth and warmth to a neutral palette of buff, chestnut, char, white and black. Tonal and monochromatic schemes evolve into color blocked tableaus with peeks of vibrant solids, transparent layers or insets. For evening, contrasted colors or PVC stripes give a modern polish to a classic tuxedo pant or lapel. Bold and graphic.

Accessories. Intersecting performance and utility. Sporty high top sneakers, in softest French calf, with monochrome geometric insets and a lightweight desert boot sole. Utilitarian backpacks and small, personal leather goods are rendered in luxe combinations of alligator or French calf with nylon and finished with black matte hardware and finishes in buff or bright hues of vermilion and solar. The updated pilot sunglass with a tonal metal frame and geometric lens.

 

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Wed, July 2 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

BACKSTAGE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

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Mon, June 30 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Man Milan Fashion Week

 

Architecture and space

The starting point was architecture then space came along as a word to objectify it. The inspiration is the result of their interaction translated into the origin of functionality to embody the social structures, the business logics.

Innovations and destructions; splendor and decadence, philosophy and romanticism, masculine and feminine are the sources to develop this new chapter: architecture vs space like textures vs surfaces.

With the Spring-Summer 2015 collection Stefano Pilati continues to explore and to combine apparent contradictions. The new Ermenegildo  Zegna Couture researches and develops a silhouette and an attitude that evolves from the previous two collections.

The silhouettes are more evidently defined in their volumes – the space – and in their graphism – the architecture.

The presence of stripes throughout the collection as a vehicle to mark an exercise of style where formality and leisure breathe the same languid summer allure.

 

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Thu, June 26 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

 

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