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Z ZEGNA FALL WINTER 2013 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Z Zegna© Copyright 2013

THE URBAN WANDERER MEETS THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Today. Yesterday. Tomorrow. Different time frames that characterize the new Z Zegna AW 2013-14 collection, a counterpoint of today’s fast-paced and digitally-connected society with outdoorsy tradition and meticulous craftsmanship borrowed from the distant past.

An artful and youthful balance for a demanding man with a nomadic soul whose agenda blurs the line between work and leisure time. Contemporary clothes for a dynamic and urban lifestyle where heritage elements bond with innovative constructions and fabrications – heat sealed garments, heat taped details, the search for three dimension. The raincoat, instead, morphs into the rain suit.

Caravaggio’s moody and intense color palette permeates a collection filled with shades of brown, from tobacco to sienna, ash gray and ebony, plus flashes of kingfisher or cadmium red matched with navy.

The exclusive fabrics are rough, tough and matte. A mismatch of layered textures anchored on felted wools, degradé effects, wool and silk blends that resemble shearling, winter cottons and jersey bonded with worsted wools, all of which ooze timeless endurance as in the best Zegna tradition. Classic patterns – stripes, argyles, checks and quilting – blown up or manipulated to become textured graphic layers for rustic outwear.

In lieu of the coat, dapper three-button blazers are layered over one another to modern effect and paired with conical pants, either flat-front or single pleat. New is the “Atelier” fit, a highlight for the new sartorial suit that features blazers with a nostalgic feel. The shoulders are deconstructed or bold and sharp, reminiscent of the Italian sartorial tradition. Sturdy and authentic garments such as wide-sleeved shirts peeking from under fitted vests nod to heraldic gestures, conveying a sense of protection.

All in all, a pragmatic and functional message that channels a sense of clarity and order in today’s fast-fashion maelstrom.

 

Z Zegna Man Milan Fashion Week
Catwalk Z Zegna Fall Winter 2013 14 Men Collection Milan Fashion Week
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Thu, February 28 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ICEBERG FALL WINTER 2013-14 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Iceberg © Copyright 2013

The colors and shapes marking Iceberg menswear for next fall find inspiration in the rules of the Bauhaus design movement. As in avant-garde vision, pure practicality, modern essence.

Geometric expressions of primary blue, red and yellow hues play an ornamental role in a collection where beige and black predominate with the chromatic repetition of a kinetic sculpture.

The technical use of color captures a design concept that evolves and emerges in the knitwear – true core of the collection – as the textural richness of the yarns bonds perfectly with the geometric cleanliness emblematic of the School founded by architect Walter Gropius in Weimar, Germany, in the early 20th century.

Strong rhythms influence the robotic gait of men who display a relaxed and self-assured elegance that reflects the true spirit of the sportswear intrinsic to the brand.

Absolutely natural fabrics – wool, silk, cotton, cashmere – mix and mingle with technical materials.

 

Iceberg Man Milan Fashion Week
Catwalk Iceberg Fall Winter 2013 14 Men Collection Milan Fashion Week
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Wed, February 27 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS FALL WINTER 2013 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Dirk Bikkembergs Man Milan Fashion Week

 

Synthetic – organic, sport – luxury, urban – elegant.

The new collection comes into being from the collision of universes apparently in conflict with one another.

Juxtaposition creates a surprising mix of glamour and elegance.

The absolute stars are leather, knitwear and fur, with highly advanced construction techniques appropriated from the world of sport; graphic inlays and colour blocking, like icy grey mélange, pine green with egg yolk yellow, camel, lilac-lavender and emerald green.

Volume in extreme opposition, from the very loose to the very tight, deliberately brought together in a carefully thought-out play of aesthetic contrasts. These contrasts also return in the vast choice of materials: natural wool, astrakhan, calfskin, technical fabrics, velvet, transparent nylon and many more.

The most emblematic feature of the Juxtaposition between experimentation and tradition, is the fur sports coat, which combines weather-proof zips, heat sealing construction and technical membranes with beaver fur. The reinterpretation of a classic in the Dirk Bikkembergs style.

The Dirk Bikkembergs Man’s wardrobe is constructed around contrast and juxtaposition: impeccable, bold, urban, sportive, yet, always, effortlessly elegant.

 

Catwalk Dirk Bikkembergs Fall Winter 2013 14 Men Collection Milan Fashion Week
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Wed, February 27 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

DAKS FALL WINTER 2013-14 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Daks Man Milan Fashion Week

 

DAKS returns to Milan for the second time showcasing the Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection under the creative direction of Filippo Scuffi.

The collection takes its main inspiration from a typical English gentleman of the early 1900s, secure in his style, whose look is refined, but with a dash of bohemian nonchalance.

The tailored garments reflect this period in history and create a dignified air, often long and with a wealth of detailing. Deep vents, box pleats and prominent stitching feature strongly in the collection, highlighting the design and structure of the garments. The trouser silhouettes are narrow, reflecting the British look, while a key tailoring item is a double breasted jacket with a broad lapels.

The color palette this season is based around shades of navy, dark brown and grey with flashes of mustard yellow as a highlight.

Classic English menswear fabrics feature heavily in their time honoured roles such as suits, jackets and trousers, but also form significant details in capes and cloaks.
Velvets and wools sourced from British suppliers are woven compactly which results in a smooth texture.

The DAKS House Check is present throughout this collection, and has been reworked in an oversized wool design this season.

Luxurious knitwear in 100 % cashmere plays an important role and, again, the taste is Bohemian, often teamed with scarves.

Leather also features prominently and is devised either as bonded leather or combined with a woolen House Check fabric.

The bags are large and sophisticated, in soft nappa and chamois. The three main colour tones on which the collection is built are clearly apparent, as well as variations in leather and House Check wool.

 

Catwalk Daks Fall Winter 2013 14 Men Collection Milan Fashion Week
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Tue, February 26 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

FRANKIE MORELLO FALL WINTER 2013-14 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Frankie Morello © Copyright 2013

The idea
The basic idea springs from a long-held passion: Pierfrancesco Gigliotti’s love of architecture and specifically the subject of his degree dissertation, i.e. clothing as architecture of the body. And so the new Frankie Morello collection becomes literally a building, an abode not only for a man’s body, but also for his ideas, his character, story and interests.

The collection
The red-brick houses in New York’s West Village are transformed into Gobelin prints. The photos of the brand’s creative spaces are tattooed on the fabrics as if they were the pages of an interior décor magazine. The inlaid marble of Florentine flooring turns into grisaille patterns. And the curved wood becomes a decoration on backpacks and accessories. Lastly, illusion is three-dimensional: the T-shirts are sewn with box-like corners, the knitwear includes mirrors as if it were the end of a corridor.

The celebrity
The guest star and symbol of the collection could be no other than Fabio Novembre. His way of balancing fashion, design and architecture, merging the disciplines through the leitmotiv of creativity, is the core around which each look in the new collection is centred.

The criticism
Under the clothing, apart from the prints, there’s a provocation. Being literally clothed in a creative process, visually dressing in design is also a denunciation of those who cynically copy the creativity of others without considering the research, work, dedication and know-how that are behind an outfit and go beyond a collection. It’s the desire to dress in a criticism through the power of imagination.

 

Frankie Morello Man Milan Fashion Week
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Sat, February 23 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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