CELEBRATING MOSCHINO’S 30TH ANNIVERSARY
To celebrate the fashion house’s 30th anniversary, Creative Director Rossella Jardini wished to pay tribute to the memory of founder Franco Moschino by re-interpreting all the iconic themes that have inspired his aesthetic vision. She presents an exclusive mise en scène that plays on the double spirit of the contemporary woman, the good and evil.
Opening the show are the designer’s 4 favorite models: Pat Cleveland (strapless dress with Italian flag and cow, fall winter 85/86), Violeta Sanchez (coat with teddy bears, fall/winter 88/89), Amalia (Italian flag dress, fall/winter 88/89) and Giselle Zelauy (garbage dress, spring/summer 94) , who wear symbolic garments from the Maison’s archives. Then they leave the scene to the spring/summer 2014 collection with a series of female characters that describe the same woman in her “good” & “bad” versions.
The nun, the maid, the playmate, the biker and many other varied personalities reveal a creative duality that alternates street-glam style with a bon chic, bon genre spirit, through a collection that is elegantly easy, accessible and, at the same time, highly refined, and speaks to all women.
Between the memory of Franco Moschino and the look towards the present and future of the Maison, Rossella Jardini offers must-have pieces like the leather jacket with a heart or dotted with shiny studs, the iridescent bouclé jacket with large metallic zippers and chain bracelets on the cuffs, pearl embroidery on lightweight, see-through dresses, refining the most delicate looks with patterns of colored roses printed or embroidered on fabrics in white, black and red. Hearts, pearls and chains. Raised lettering with the logo letters in shiny metal and gold, on both the clothes and the accessories.
A rhythm that brings together different shapes and distinctive details, from “cropped” silhouettes and long petalled cuts, from striped patterns and Vichy designs, from flirty culottes and sophisticated organza dresses, completely hand-embroidered and trimmed with ruffles and large flounces.
And for the grand finale, highlighted by the live voice of Gloria Gaynor singing I AM WHAT I AM, the historical models return to the scene to introduce a series of 11 more vintage looks:
Pat wearing a red dress with black polka dots, spring/summer 84
Violeta wearing an upside down strapless jacket dress, spring/summer 88
Amalia wearing the Holy Chic dress, fall/winter 93/94
Gisele wearing the Gazzetta Dello Sport dress, spring/summer 93
Alek Wek wearing the “question mark” dress, spring/summer 98
Alana wearing the “De Gvstibvs Non Est Dispvtandvm” t-shirt and a skirt with hearts, spring/summer 94
Erin O’ Connor wearing the dinner jacket and the Kaos skirt, spring/summer 94
Jodie Kidd wearing the” gorilla” dress, fall/winter 94/95
Diana D. wearing the chain jacket and the “NIENTE” t-shirt, fall/winter 88/89
Natasha wearing the shopping bag dress, fall winter 87/88
Catherine McNeil wearing bathing suits bearing the written motto LA CLASSE NON È ACQUA, spring/summer 87
Meanwhile, a tableau vivant takes shape in the background.
Like the footnote of a timeless tale that celebrates this important anniversary, weaving a precious thread between the story of yesterday and the passionate present that is MOSCHINO.
Thu, October 31 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2013
SPRING/SUMMER 2014 WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION
A revolution as to aesthetic, codes and direction. It’s a return to the brand’s roots, with a strong innovative and icononclastic spirit, no sense of nostalgia. The new spring/summer 2014 Iceberg women’s collection designed by Alexis Martial signals the beginning of a profound change.
Right from the start, the principle of the uniform so dear to Iceberg takes hold. Merging with a Manga aesthetic, it sparks the idea of a boy scout journeying toward Harajuku, Japan. These two universes are clearly highlighted by the use of the color white, which plays a central role in this theme where quasi-couture structures are always fresh and fun.
Inspired by Japanese pop culture, the brand name shows up in pictographic lettering along with the abstract design of an iceberg. In form of embroidered patch or holographic reflector, it appears as if a signature on a variety of items, so creating a leitmotif cutting across the whole collection.
For example, on a baggy streetwear type sweat: other element marking the brand’s archives, though now in the freshest of styles thanks to innovative materials. Leather and neoprene closely coupled with fine muslin turn the latter into a wonderfully edgy basic.
An ultra sheer nylon knit fabric, product of a special textile process, covers print or embroidered dresses to create the impression of an iridescent jellyfish. Lastly, there are clothes more in the way of couture with streetwear accents. Funky volumes. Miniskirts draping on hips.
Impalpable silk muslin dresses with iridescent rhodoid bands and – on top – black knit gilets or aprons evoking a factory or workshop context. Accessories reinforce the distinctly contemporary Nipponic feel of the collection, as in ankle boots and open-toe sandals with soft rubber sole.
Plexiglas studs, jewel-buttons add a luxurious touch to this playful work garb. Even collars come complete with a precious lacquer metal piece that mimics the classic boy-scout neckerchief.
Mon, October 28 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Sat, October 26 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Antonio Marras © Copyright 2013
Before there was earth or sea or the sky that covers everything, Nature appeared the same throughout the whole world, what we call chaos: a raw confused mass, nothing but inert matter, badly combined discordant atoms of things, confused in the one place.
Ovid, The Metamorphoses I 5,9
Balanced chaos, perfect disorder. Matter that changes and plays with shapes and volumes. Rules overturned, unstably solid balances. Imperfect, discordant, excessive. Complete, limpid, regular.
Rules respected yet broken. Clothes like leaves on which the times of change and mutation leave their mark. Caban jackets, jackets and blouses, only seemingly austere, reveal excrescences as if plates of armor had grown on the back as protection and a shield.
Tops, tunics, and skirts with apparently different shapes are similar and contiguous. Sisters. Daughters. Each born from the modification of the other. Colors reflect and evoke the dawn, fog, and glistening dew drops.
Powder pink, penicillin yellow, ash gray, dusty blue, swamp green, and fairytale pink. Luxurious embroidery, wild threads, transparencies, layering, perforated patent leather motifs, butterfly wings of cloth and chiffon, precious stones and grosgrain ribbon, lace, dentelle lace, Chantilly lace, and ruching alternate on different materials.
Radzimir organza with oversized motifs of flowers embedded in stripes and dots (that recall dreamy and familiar worlds). Olympian landscapes bursting with vibrant shapes and colors. Ecru and black intertwining, blending and clashing.
A blend of mesh, silver leather, fil coupe, satin, floral brocade, striped tapestry fabric, silk duchesse, cotton jacquard, and tulle on tulle.
I want to speak about bodies changed into new forms. You, gods, since you are the ones who alter these, and all other things, inspire my attempt, and spin out a continuous thread of words, from the world’s first origins to my own time.
Ovid, The Metamorphoses I 1-4
Fri, October 18 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Anteprima © Copyright 2013
A GENTLE POWER
Spring and summer; Seasons of newness, boldness, innocence, joy and mystery.
A time for color and power: powder pink, aqua green, icy blue, off white, splashes of metallic silver, turquoise and rose gold.
A time for contrasts. Knitted softness vs textural flair, opaque vs transparent, chiffon vs leather, summer cashmere vs silk organza, pastel vs metallic, oversized vs waisted.
A time for a woman’s energy, feminine and forceful, sophisticated and playful, delicate and dramatic, sweet and independent.
On her soles: a high-heeled combination of PVC and metallic leather. On her waist: exquisite belts of shiny leather or wire. In her hands: the knitted splendour of the Wirebag.
Spring and Summer; A time of confidence, fun, and harmony. A time for the woman, to shine.
Mon, October 14 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments