A return to the beginning of time, in order to create a change in perspective: a pursuit of an essence that generates everything and is necessary today more than ever. Following the thread of an emotional story embedded in the vital magma of contemporary culture, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli accomplish a new stage of a very personal narrative journey for the Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 collection.
Looking towards a place both real and stylized they leave Rome, the center and horizon of their own aesthetic universe, behind them, and always preserving their invaluable expertise of métissage and savoir-faire, they land in wild, tribal Africa. The journey is introspective: emotions and spirituality, sensuality and human touch are the key to the persistent research of beauty as an expression of virtue.
The values of the Maison have always been re nement, individuality and timeless elegance and are reread from a new angle. The collection expresses totemic and primordial grace. At the center of this story is a powerful and persistent gure with an incisive, vertical silhouette. Cuts are reduced to a minimum, as if the garments were created by spontaneous and immediate gestures.
The urge of embellishment is an expression of presence: long tunics are held at the neck by necklaces and ornaments, while prints are concentrated on long dresses with a simple ancestral taste. The body is the protagonist being both vibrant and hieratic beneath scratched leather bustier worn with pencil skirts. Draped fabric generate unique pieces conveying regal grace.
The mask, traditionally used as a form of disguise is readapted as an expression of a symbolic ego and full of pathos, is a recurring motif that appears in multiple patterns on bags, shoes and jewelry. Wood and metal ornaments accent the image, signs of an austere and palpable opulence.
A collaboration with the artist Alessandro Gaggio has led to the creation of several high jewelry pieces in white terracotta with motifs that merge nature and human artistry. Natural and substantial shades make up the color palette: notes of black, ivory, ebony, beige, dark red and forest green maintain the inspiration of the collection close to the earth. Africa as vibrant, as throbbing, as imperfect purity.
These elements, that at the beginning of the 20th century have compelled many exponents of historical avant-garde movements to nourish from this same energy, return today as a compulsory necessity. The analogical, hand-made approach is the antidote to the digital deprivation of individual character in order to maintain authentic individuality.
The Spring-Summer 2016 collection captures the spirited optimism of the Chloé girl through a technicolour lens. Embodying a sense of carefree sexiness, her romantic side meets an athletic sophistication. imbued with strength and urban simplicity, the silhouette floats light as air.
Accenting black, white, and denim blues, a sun-flared palette of sorbet tones highlights the linear quality of ombré stripe blouses, rave pants, halter tops, and sensuous slipdresses in shades of lemon, pistachio, lavender, vermillion and palest rose.
Silk chiffon, floral print lace, acid-wash denim, and silk tech knits propose a contrast of sports utility with ultra-feminine flou, as delicate transparency meets a frayed, lived-in opulence.
Edged in graphic lace, delicate smocked chiffon tumbles into box pleated sundresses and camisoles layered with languid tailoring, whilst boyish basics are elevated in fine textiles, like dungarees cut in double georgette or track pants striped in knitted silk.
Sweeping the floor, intense pastel gowns cascade into weightless tiers of diaphanous kaleidoscope ruffles. The Spring-Summer 2016 collection is accented by swinging talisman pendants, and tasseled, totem pouches clasped in the hand.
The Chloé girl wears slip-on knotted slides or a stacked heel sandal laced up the ankle.
For the Spring Summer 2016 collection, Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial allow a gust of sea breeze to flutter through their Parisienne’s wardrobe. Taking a fresh and dynamic stance, she adopts elements from workwear before diving into evening, taking her inspiration from the seabed.
Oscillating between close-fitting cuts and looser fits, the season’s silhouette expresses an airy elegance. « Inside-out » jackets and men’s shirts give way to a Sixties style punctuated with circular cut-outs. Dresses and tops suggest the influence of the diving suit, while pleats and frills float like the fins of an urban mermaid. A slogan t-shirt suggests the insouciance of youth, paired with a sensual short skirt. Always high-waisted, the trouser affirms its place as a mainstay of the Carven vocabulary.
Whether technical, embroidered or reworked, fabrics display the breadth of the house’s savoir-faire: mikado, jacquard fil coupé, pleated or embossed textures provide a textural contrast between structure and evanescence. A basic palette around shades of navy, black, beige and grey is brightened with lilac, Klein blue and pastels, while a dark green suggests the depths of the ocean. From these same abysses comes the inspiration for prints and ornaments, from an underwater scene to aquatic shapes and « sea urchin » embroidery.
Belts take their lead from a diving design and shoes borrow the thick rubber sole of beach sandals, perched on a square heel. In full-fronted, strappy or net versions, they bring a touch of bright colour to each look. Wrists display a Carven letter chain or a mini-bag. The Mercer bag once again features its double clasp opening and comes in a variety of shapes, always accessorized with a plethora of keyrings and snap hooks.