In 1977, Kenzo Takada showed at legendary club, ‘Studio 54′. Grace Jones performed, Jerry Hall walked. For this collection we want to celebrate the euphoria of an assembly of cultures. A space filled to the brim with individuals whose style speaks volumes. Women who wear distinctiveness as an expression of freedom.
An invitation to work with the archives of renowned artist Antonio Lopez was the starting point for this collection. Antonio’s work documents an iconic time in paris, of which Kenzo was an integral part. It felt relevant and exciting to pay homage to that, and re-interpret it for the Kenzo woman today. A woman like donna jordan or pat cleveland, both strong, beautiful and unparalleled. Grid-like photo formations, collages and sketches of polaroids once loaned but never returned. These images are transposed onto varying garments, offering a new lease of life to such beautiful imagery.
Ponchos, parkas and military raincoats are reimagined as light, voluminous dresses and blouses, in technical taffetas with metal snaps or drawstrings. Shiny fabrics – nylons, sequins, lamés are juxtaposed against cotton drills, raw denims or military cottons. Broken camouflage exists alongside classic motifs. Soft pinks are played against bright reds or cherry. Pink and blue lamés wax lyrical to disco anthems. Trousers and skirts are high waisted and with volume. Shoulders are softly rounded.
Accessories are worn as jewelry. Clutches become cross body’s through adjustable straps. Glittered and chainmail bags come as shoppers, harnesses or bum bags. Chainmail bandanas accentuate the neckline. Oversized crystal and sequined earrings reflect the light. Stiletto sandals walk with coiled heels.
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
DATA CENTER CHANEL
In an ultra-technological world where daily life is increasingly dematerialised, Karl Lagerfeld puts humans back at the centre of everything by making “Intimate technology” the theme of his collection. His vision celebrates a woman walking through kilometres of cables, metallic racks and computer cabinets: she is the very heart of the Data Center CHANEL, she who is the final word and the mistress of this digital universe.
This season more than ever, with grace and tenderness, femininity takes control in a collection that allies the audacity of lingerie and the comfort of tweed. The Spring-Summer 2017 CHANEL woman wears her babydoll and negligee in silk and lace. And over that she nonchalantly sports a tweed jacket with rounded shoulders, long sleeves and wide lapels, and a pair of culottes zipped at the front and back. She wears a robot-clutch.
Her modernity is affirmed with new details through “new materials and a wardrobe that is not classic at all”, says Karl Lagerfeld. Touch fasteners replace buttons, braiding becomes a thick jersey cable; woven multi-coloured tweeds include rubber strands and vinyl strips; cotton, denim and wool threads line up like countless electronic cables; collars and cuffs are swathed in embossed translucent gauze.
Explosions of colour are everywhere over backgrounds of blue, red, yellow, pink, purple, black and navy, a mix of pastels and electric shades. This contemporary energy is equally diffused over caps in silk or tweed, sleek clutch bags in perforated silver leather, flat shoes with cross over straps, and the big pendant necklaces that resemble ID badges, held on with a snap hook. As if hastily pulled on, the unlined jackets and big coats in tweed, as light as knitwear, are worn over long skirts and pleated blouses. They alternate with slightly asymmetric jackets, accompanied by zip-up skirts with flat pleats that reveal silk and lace shorts beneath.
The new Gabrielle bag suggests a new way to be worn: its double straps are slipped on around the head like a sweater, and nonchalantly border the neck and shoulders, as would a long necklace. Cotton voile gracefully envelopes coats and immaculate dresses, punctuated with ruffled edge camellias. A full skirt in cotton voile is embellished with an entirely pleated XL camellia.
Technology comes attired in an unprecedented softness, on blouses with ruffled cuffs, and silk dresses whose motifs are inspired by the digital world, or other dresses with huge rounded pockets. It opens the door to an exquisite femininity, where silk, lace and crepe georgette intermingle in the most delicate hues of powder, pale pink, candy pink, blush and peach sashaying through to midnight blue.
From there on underwear becomes over wear: flat pleat or accordion pleated plastrons are tailored onto underslips and negligees while shell guipure lace petticoats and pyjama trousers in silk and lace cry out to be worn as daywear. Blouses combine touch fasteners, sequins that look like electronic components, feathers and flounces. Evening gowns focus on voluminous sunray pleats, trimmed with marabout.
This collection turns the spotlight on chic lingerie whose elegance contrasts fiercely with the reality of our automated world. Without the human hand, without delicacy and savoir-faire, nothing would be possible. After all don’t two robots wearing two CHANEL suits thus prove, perhaps, that more than any technological breakthrough, it is femininity that truly transcends time?