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ANTONIO MARRAS SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Antonio Marras S/S 2012 - Milano Fashion Week
CAR JE EST UN AUTRE
The ritual of Claire and Solange, Genet’s Maids, takes place each night in a small, stuffy room that is their stage. The two sisters, who love and hate their mistress, play Madame when she is away. They take turns dressing in her clothes, imitating and mimicking her. They pretend to be a part of her vie en rose, and at the end of each daily ritual, they attempt to kill her but fail. lllusion and reality, truth and fantasy, true and false overlap and blend in a cruel game taken to the extreme.
Car je est an autre, Rimbaud would say. Each person is what she is, but above all, what she can and would like to be: a peasant or a grand dame, a lady or a servant. Each invents her own transformations. Claire and Solange always switch roles: they transform themselves and briefly live a life denied them, where life is theater and theater is life. Dualism, transformation, change, multiplication, excess, and derailment of the final destination of an object are at basis of this work. Two paths are followed, inspired by Madame, Claire, and Solange.
On one hand, the elegance and figure of the femme fatale Madame – the seductive idol with dazzling beauty and allure, adored and destroyed – are exasperated and emphasized. Fine fabrics, brilliant colors ranging from emerald green to magenta, white, ecru and black, and exquisite details evoke and emphasize a world that is often denied but lives on in one’s imagination.
On the other hand, a rejected frock that wants to escape its destiny is bedazzled, dressed in colors and covered with contrasts of light, sophisticated asymmetric details, unusual combinations of fabrics, original appliqués, intarsia and ornaments to claim its right to exist and to live and dream. The humble garment is embellished, embroidered, and enhanced.
Unusual shapes and decorations transform it into something else: a dress, skirt, jacket, or trousers. The Maids sneak up to their mistress’s wardrobe. Rummaging through it with curiosity and awe, they blend, restyle, cut, sew, embroider, and apply details of elegant party dresses on their simple frocks.
The poor, modest, plain work uniform vibrantly comes to life and expresses new energy, revealing unexpected elegance, bursting with myriad colors and shapes that create another image and life that was denied until now. lt is a new, sumptuous,
magnificent, dazzling evening gown: Madame’s dress that we can all be, for an entire lifetime or for just a game.
…it’s my turn to be MADAME!

Jean Genet

Catwalk Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2012 Women Fashion Show
Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2012 Women Fashion Show
Antonio Marras - Spring Summer 2012 Women
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Sun, October 2 2011 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

.NORMALUISA SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

.Normaluisa S/S 2012 - Milano Fashion Week
The .normaluisa woman – designed by Giorgiana – for the next summer tells about an endless vacation, that starts in Positano, with sorbet colors like lime, tangerine and grapefruit, and comes through Africa for a chic and sauvage safari wearing garments made of hemp fluorescent touches. She Chooses wallpaper-prints, inspired, by the installations of the Danish artist Nina Saunders, mixed with fabrics in a romantic bouquet of flowers inlaid on cotton sateen.
The atmosphere is vaguely Sixties, like the one told in the film “Le Mepris”, hand-made crochet clothes and as fundamental “accessories” owns and cultivates a good dose of culture and an engaged intellect . Naive, but not too much. On the turntable plays “Cameo Lover” in loop..
She Travels with a suitcase full of memories and cultures, postcards and souvenirs, textures of feeling, custom and colors at the opposite in a gentle femininity that chooses strict volumes, embraced and tribal at the same times.
Cocktail dresses mixed with cotton knitwear with contrasted edges, and lurex I inserts. Everything is double, in a continuous alternation of proportions that makes each piece an optical illusion: as the double belts on the waist, double the length, double pleated skirts that stretch the clothes to the knees and the double use of the silk trench coat to wear as a dress. Double is also the name of the brand!
MATERIALS
Scenic materials, inspired by Madame Gres exhibition in Paris: pleated silk, cotton muslin plumetis spotted by irregular, laminated fabrics, mats, crepe and lace mixed in stretch cotton satin. Ladylike when choosing fabrics like the taste more sporty lasered satin. A little “mal d’Africa”, hemp rope in a loop pile effect.
COLOURS
Reflections of blue and white, never banal , alternating with bright tones of cedar, mandarin and grapefruit, adding a tone of chic and discreet, always with a sense of detail but without any obstentation.

Catwalk .Normaluisa Spring Summer 2012 Women Fashion Show
.Normaluisa - Spring Summer 2012 Women
.Normaluisa Spring Summer 2012 Women - Fashion Show - Catwalk
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Sun, October 2 2011 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

JO NO FUI SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Jo No Fui - Spring Summer 2012 Women
Chic esotique – esotique, excentrique, ironique. Gossip girl and romy schenider. The Images from ” la piscina ” are a pool party in Los Angeles. Populated with actress from the new Hollywood. Tropical glamour meets bon ton. Linear silhouettes and luxuriant prints. Palms, intertwined banana leaves, exotic fruits. jewel effects in briolette – gemstone needle – work.
From a 1960′ s cocktail hour. On Dual – colored, caribbean flavored dresses and on the collars of striped ivy league skirt. Or a pleated mini. On a tiny blouse draped over the shoulders. All over bamboo prints. On metropolitan safaris. Slipping into a resort palette. Sand, ivory, hibiscus flame, chocolate, black. Ice – cream hues that remind us of pool water. Improvised cuts, intriguing frills, minx- like and airy lengths in mantle dresses, caftan tops and butterfly – sleeved tube dresses. Impalpable like a perfume trailing off. Worn with flat black or nude sandals. And with a mini, shell bag with mother of pearl plating in rodoid. For the true socialite.

Jo No Fui S/S 2012 - Milano Fashion Week
Catwalk Jo No Fui Spring Summer 2012 Women Fashion Show
Jo No Fui - Spring Summer 2012 Women
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Fri, September 30 2011 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ALBINO SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Albino S/S 2012 - Milano Fashion Week
The collection’s silhouettes take shape from the 1958 painting of surrealist Max Ernst: “33 fillettes partant a la chasse d’un papillon blanc”. They are similar, yet at the same time different patterns, which underline the different personality of each one. Fil rouge of this collection is surrealism and its expressive techniques, the research, the play on architectural volumes and an innocent feminine figure, a constant of Albino’s style.
The antique technique of frottage, re-discovered in modern times by Ernst himself, has been applied to the fabrics: toiles a patronage used to cut the first canvasses are printed with enamels and lamé or, more simply, thickened to make them more full-bodied. Collage and ripping in surrealist paintings are translated into a research for three-dimension as well as also in the pure lines and measured volumes and in the matching of coarse cotton crepe to silk, of lamé to the acetate mikado double, all this in a contrast between organic and techno.
…the lightness of butterflies and their presence-absence…
So, as in Ernst’s painting, the butterfly is not represented but perceived by the irregular brush stokes, it’s the techniques used in the collection that convey the presence of the butterfly: petal embroideries (either degrade or brush painted), appliqués in airbrushed organza and georgette and prints with the wings’ graphics in animalier.
The research and neatness of the lines translates into essential constructions, where stitching and cuts are reduced to the minimum: Kimono sleeves, skirts and dresses made with a single fabric panel and cocoon capes and dust coats, or the contrast between rounded and squared lines, wheels and rectangles. Everything is finalised to making even the garments made with the heavier and technical fabrics look light and aerial.
The colour palette is natural and soft: ecru, coarse, tobacco, pine green with strokes of black and white, distanced by touches of shiny colour, yellow, cold, peach, cognac, brass and bluette.

Catwalk Albino Spring Summer 2012 Women Fashion Show
Albino Spring Summer 2012 Women Fashion Show
Albino - Spring Summer 2012 Women
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Fri, September 30 2011 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MAX KIBARDIN: ” IN EXCESS” SPRING SUMMER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Max Kibardin
We are often cautioned to do everything in moderation. Yes, it is an undeniable fact that sometimes, one must throw caution to the wind and do everything in excess.
Exactly, what is this excess? It is indeed an unapologetic excess of glamour, hair, makeup, sex, outfits, shoes, decadence, eccentricity.
Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin bourgeoise women exemplify heady excesses and devil-may-care attitude. Robert Palmer iconic music video “Addicted to love” featuring identically dressed models whit pale faces, dark eye makeup and bright red lipstick. Patrick Nagel illustrations of contemporary woman: She is elegant and sophisticated, exuding an air of mysterious enticement. She is capable, alluring and graceful, but also aloof and distant.
Max Kibardin’s Spring Summer 2012 collection interprets this kind of women’s shoes in quotations of metallic python, Swarovski Crystals, patent leather, fishnets and the new super sexy winding heel.
Glamour, decadent, sexy, smart, this is particular collection, wrought by the designer – step by step – allows a woman, as it were, to have a Helmut Newton moment, a decadent, a sexy moment, a disco moment, a Bourdin moment, in short, a total Dionysian experience without its after-taste.
Kibardin interprets the early eighties bourgeoise elegance and its excentricity in a palette of black, metallic red ink, nude and neon. The restrain of palette becomes a metaphor for alienation, moral decay and sweet melancholy of the excess era.

Max Kibardin - Spring Summer 2012
Max Kibardin - Shoe Detail
Shoe Max Kibardin - Spring Summer 2012 Shoe
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Thu, September 29 2011 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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