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MAISON MARGIELA SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maison Margiela Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris

Maison Margiela© Copyright 2018

‘Artisanal’ Men’s Collection
Reassessing the future of dressmaking in the men’s wardrobe, Maison Margiela presents its first full Artisanal menswear collection. The show signifies an unrestricted foray onto the territory of haute couture for men in a conversation with a new masculinity in motion. Opening the doors to the deft skills of creative director John Galliano and the 163 rue Saint-Maur ateliers, the presentation is staged as the house works in view. The collection is exclusively bespoke and will inform a men’s ready-to-wear line to be included in a co-ed Spring – Summer 2019 Défilé show in September.

Reflecting on the streetwear culture of the current menswear climate, John Galliano exercises his pyramidical approach to creation through an exploration of new values. It is an appreciation of the current evolution of male dress codes, and the desire to take it to unexplored places of craftsmanship for a young generation. The bias-cut – a technique native to the creative language of John Galliano – transforms traditional bespoke tailoring into a mercurial and hyper-modern take on suit-making. Executed in silks and tweeds, bias-cutting generates a harmonious exchange between fabric and body, expressed in a louche and liberating silhouette for an advancing male dress sense.

The intricacy, techniques and time inherent to haute couture are applied to traditional ideas of male dress in a transcendence of gender-specific uniforms. It is the experimental proposal of a reimagined sexuality, sensuality and individuality for a new mentality. Rooted in authenticity, garments informed by the wardrobes of formalwear and leisure pursuits undergo a process of repurposing. Original kimonos – some from the eighteenth century – are reconditioned into garments for the contemporary wardrobe. Corsetry, cape cuts in outerwear, and hand-embroidery in surface decoration nod at classic couture codes, whereas rubber and leather moulding reflect a less traditional approach to craftsmanship.

The Artisanal show is embedded in expert dressmaking and a new consideration of the tradition of haute couture. Drawing on terminology established in recent Artisanal proposals, notions of relaxed glamour, dressing in haste, appropriating the inappropriate, and dressing in reverse underpin the collection. House techniques such as anonymity of the lining, the memory of, and décortiqué, materialise throughout, honouring and honing the Artisanal identity of Maison Margiela.

‘Through the potential of Artisanal possibilities, conventional dress codes are broken down in a discovery of diverse individualities for a new age of self-expression.’ – Maison Margiela.

Materials
Authentic fabrications known from classic tailoring and haute couture form the foundation for the collection. Satin-back crêpe and tweed serve as canvases for bias-cutting in tailoring, while wool, twill and leather enter into outerwear. Drawing on the bespoke women’s wardrobe, textiles such as boucle, organza, chiffon, silk, jacquard and fine knit amplify the Artisanal volume, alongside the inevitable couture element of plume. They are contrasted by bold materials in the shape of vinyl, rubber, patent leather, and plastic. Original and antique kimonos are recycled and repurposed into new incarnations, bonded to their own lining.

Technique
The technique through which creative director John Galliano has historically expressed himself, bias- cutting is explored in menswear for a languid and dynamic approach to tailoring. Contrary to cutting straight-of-grain, bias-cutting materialises when the material is cut at an angle, allowing the natural elasticity in the fabric to hit the bias. The result is a virile, unparalleled sense of movement and a feeling of non-constriction. Recycled kimonos are deconstructed thread by thread, bonded to their own lining and transformed into new garments. Outerwear is cut like capes, evoking an unmistakable haute couture shape. Outdoor wardrobe staples are shrunken and transformed into shirts. Plume is encased in painted plastic. Hand-embroidery and hand-beading further cement the Artisanal prowess of the collection. Employing recently established house techniques, décortiqué appears when a garment or accessory is reduced to its structural core, while anonymity of the lining signifies the revelation of garment constructions traditionally concealed. The memory of illustrates the impression of a familiar motif in a garment. Dressing in haste is evoked by the gesticular encasing of outfits in fine silk knit tops, and dressing in reverse is the repurposing of garment layers traditionally assigned a certain function.

Palette
Black, white and off-white set the authentic tones for the collection. They come alive alongside red, pink and turquoise, backed up by motifs from kimonos and leopard, as well as vintage and animated prints. Finally, gold and silver serve as a manifestation of the high dressmaking embodied by the Artisanal collection.

Accessories
The techniques of haute couture inform hand-worked jewellery constructed from hand-made materials. Custom designed embroideries are created in a meeting between leisure pursuits and techno. Painstaking beadwork such as ladylike pearl necklaces, also native to haute couture, are embellished with blood drops made of tiny beads and resin paint. A décortiqué hat evokes codes from the hunting wardrobe, while high-shine leather belts with sportswear clasps echo an idea of the staple accessory. Launched last year, the Glam Slam bag appears colour-coded to the collection. Formal men’s shoes, Santiago boots and Tabi boots feature in décortiqué editions. The Artisanal men’s trainer makes its debut, in rubber, hand-embroidery and recycled original kimono fabric.

 

Maison Margiela Fashion Show SS 2019
SS 2019 Maison Margiela Fashion Show
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SS 2019 Fashion Show Maison Margiela
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Tue, July 3 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Off-White Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris
Off-White Fashion Show SS 2019
SS 2019 Off-White Fashion Show
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SS 2019 Fashion Show Off-White
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Mon, July 2 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

FENDI SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Fendi Fashion Show SS 2019 Milan

Fendi© Copyright 2018

Taking a walk on FENDI’s dark side, and back. Playfully. Dualism as a trait of the FENDI DNA: FF, after all, is double.

FENDI/FIEND. ROMA/AMOR. Anagramming to make opposites collide. Fiend as little demon, but also as aficionado. Amor as love. Tiny demons and FF-forked snakes, cards and dice multiply over the surfaces, propelled by Nico Vascellari. Menacingly, insouciantly.

A performing, easy wardrobe of streamlined, easy staples: raincoats, blousons, anoraks, tailored pants, shirts, sport shorts, knitted polo shirts. Playing with its double, what looks sturdy becomes light, as perforations and nets are featured predominantly, making air a part of the texture. Playing with opposites, what looks like leather is paper, while leather gains a papery feel.

A trademark FENDI graphic play: stripes running askew on sheer shirts; FF and Pequin taping on waterproof gear; ultrasound hole punches on leather pieces. The graphic dualism of contrasting hues: red with black, white with brown. Total black as a new addition to the FENDI chromatic code, finding lightness in it.

The functionality of accessorizing: the new Peekaboo X-Lite bag, bucket hats, crossbody pouches. The elastic sling back moccasins make their return. Running sandals sport hi-tech cushioned soles, with or without socks, making the walk around Roma easier and faster, delivering plenty of Amor.

Yin and Yang, darkness and light find their balance, in FF territory. Now please enter or exit the tunnel.

 

Fendi Fashion Show SS 2019
SS 2019 Fendi Fashion Show
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Mon, July 2 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

N°21 SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

N°21 Fashion Show SS 2019 Milan

N21© Copyright 2018

Sensuality, physicality, carnality as natural elements of bodily expression. Color, warmth, nature as physical elements of territories and locations. All set in an exotic atmosphere complete with what that entails: temperatures, inclinations, lights, variables. The N21 spring/summer 2019 men’s collection talks about a desire for physicality, a delicate sensuality in the rediscovery of a body where real life gets naturally away from the conditioning of virtual culture.

«I started from a desire for light and warmth, to rediscover the body’s natural physicality. I envisioned a Cuba consisting of sunsets, colors, cocktails and palm trees. A simple, relaxed attitude able to bring the male body back to a natural condition, using classic wardrobe staples given a twist by adding diverse elements,» says N21 founder/creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua.

Sensuality. The transparency of quilted trench coats in vivid PVC is ofset by shorts in the same material worn over boxers in cotton fabric, as in the collars overlaying the collars of shirts and overcoats. The sense of physicality comes through in the sleeveless henleys and other shirts, in the low-cut one-sleeve sweaters, in the classic unbuttoned shirts worn under jackets classic of cut, in the white or stripe poplin short shorts, and also in the more classic gray kid mohair shorts worn always with white sandals and nude kneesocks.

Color. A desire for freedom is what infltrates both the bright red hue of PVC and the white & black toile de jouy with original pineapple, cocktail, palm-tree designs. Likewise, it’s there in the penetrating light of the sunset prints on shirts and sweaters; yet also in the small photos inserted in the clear PVC chest pockets of shirts, or printed on the back of coats and jackets, on the nylon pouch bags, rucksacks and totes, on the PVC envelope bags and on tote bags in various sizes.

Warmth. It’s there in the sensual mood of the material mixes, as in the coats and cabans in vivid leather or cotton with quilted tech nylon back, or in a combo of kid mohair and poplin. But a sensual sense of warmth comes through equally in the classic-cut jacket & pant outfts in kid mohair, and in the jacquard sweaters with palm- tree, surf and speeding-car designs. Or, lastly, in the photographic prints of night taxis forming the surface of shirts.

N21 and Stutterheim: a collaboration. The collection includes the raincoats that Alexander Stutterheim, inspired by classic northern fsherman slickers, launched in Stockholm in 2010. To honor and personalize this collaboration, white stripes were inserted signage style in place of seams. Prints of images from the N21 backstage were also added.

 

N°21 Fashion Show SS 2019
SS 2019 N°21 Fashion Show
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SS 2019 Fashion Show N°21
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Mon, July 2 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

VERSACE SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Versace Fashion Show SS 2019 Milan
Versace Fashion Show SS 2019

 

It’s Versace and HE knows it!

“Inspiration” is a word of yesterday, because what is relevant today won’t be tomorrow. This collection was born from the different emotions I felt in different moments during the creation process. What I put on the runway was inspired by many different kinds of men: the street-style star, the high fashion man, the boardroom executive. I conceived these clothes thinking that each of them could find something that perfectly fits his personal style. These are men who do not care about the rules and that is exactly what I love: they have an opinion and make their own style choices.”
Donatella Versace

High on life, high on the very meaning of being Versace. The Versace man is not ordinary, but rather, he is looked at, talked about, and always turning heads. He expresses himself through his clothes without holding back, his movement always effortlessly powerful, while pushing every boundary and never letting go of his sense of humour.

The Spring Summer collection plays with the perception of sensuality in a masculine context, so relevant that it can’t help but be gossiped about, from the tabloids to the streets.

HE’S BRINGING SEXY BACK – in the office, out on the town, back to his place. The clothes bring out his confidence and masculinity like never before. The business man meets his inner rock star; the street style star meets the skater guy – he is sensual, manly, contemporary, and ready to take risks that get people talking. A unique play on contrasts that defines him.

He is at ease with the ironic mix of lace, sheer, neon and floral print in a modern, masculine context. Traditional sartorial jackets are matched with baggy denim pants. The Tabloid print is a reminder of the celebrity culture we live in. The Icon shoulder bag is taken from the woman’s wardrobe and worn with printed silk pyjamas, faux python overcoats and black or white looks.

Sandals, classic shoes with iconic Medusa Head details, bucket hats and a new edition of the Chain Reaction sneaker stand out as the season’s accessories of choice. Nothing short of noticeable, the Versace man is the centre of all the attention. Because when a man wears Versace, the world talks.

 

SS 2019 Versace Fashion Show
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Thu, June 28 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

BACKSTAGE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE SS 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Backstage Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Fashion Show 2018 Milan
Backstage Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Model Man
Backstage Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Models 2019
Models Backstage Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Spring Summer 2019 Men's Collection Milan Fashion Week
Fashion Model Backstage Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Spring Summer 2019 Collection
Backstage Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Model 2019
Backstage Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Spring Summer 2019
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Thu, June 28 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Fashion Show SS 2019 Milan
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Fashion Show SS 2019

 

Weightlessness

A narrow catwalk runs in the distance between the pools facing the Oscar Niemeyer building which houses the Mondadori headquarters. This remarkable piece of architecture looks once monumental and immaterial, as if suspended, acting as a telling backdrop for a collection that marries sharpness and functional ease with a pervading sense of lightness.

Alessandro Sartori keeps perfecting his vision of the contemporary metropolitan wardrobe, fusing the performance and speed of sports with the refinement, attention to detail and precious fabrications of couture tailoring. Turning the atelier into a lab yet keeping the humanity and warmth of craft, he devises new species of clothing: sartorial breeds stemming from the seamless morphing of opposite worlds.

This season Zegna challenges technique and image even more. The silhouettes are capacious and airy, the mix of elements bold and personal. Shirts and jackets collide in hybrid forms, with an oversize fit, experimental collars and playful double sleeves. Bombers and anoraks are matched with tailored high-waisted double pleat trousers, completely rewriting the template of the suit. Parkas both long and short gain the airiness of a shirt. Degradè checks and souvenir prints add rhythm, while perforation and meshes provide an even airier feel of immateriality. Knitwear is a building block for inventive layering. In keeping with the morphing of categories, sneakers and sandals marry opanka constructions with the technical details and meshes of sport style, all of it on bold soles.

The juxtaposition and addition of elements is enhanced by the color palette which places side by side shades and nuances in variations of intensity. The amalgamation of pale blue, Tropea pink, bow green, desert, sunflower yellow, mocha, nautical blue and loganberry red is painterly and individual.

Fabrics merge the technical with the refined: Century Cashmere with a waterproof membrane; textured Tussah silk produced by Lanificio Zegna using yarns obtained from wild, natural sources; blends of silk and cotton, cotton-linen satin, tumbled wool, perforated or embossed baby-calf, mesh.

“Creation for me always stems from a technical challenge. I am presenting shapes that are bold and voluminous, yet very light, in layers of meshes, wools, silks.” says Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori “I found the same challenge in the architecture of this space. It is the perfect place to unleash the Zegna crew of individuals who recognize themselves in the XXX logo, which runs from the clothes to the set-up, unifying the message: a symbol of couture craft that is also the most personal and unexpected expression of Zegna”.

 

SS 2019 Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
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Thu, June 28 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

BACKSTAGE MOSCHINO SPRING SUMMER 2019 MENSWEAR + WOMEN’S RESORT COLLECTION

Backstage Moschino Models Los Angeles SS 2019
Backstage Moschino Model
Fashion Model Moschino Backstage 2018
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Sat, June 23 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MOSCHINO SPRING SUMMER 2019 MENSWEAR + WOMEN’S RESORT COLLECTION – LOS ANGELES

Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women's Resort Collection
Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women's Resort Collection Look 1 Los Angeles

 

MOSCHINO CIRCUS

Ladies and Gentlemen! Boys and Girls! Children of all ages! Welcome to the most spectacular, most fascinating, most incredible… Mos[t]-chino Show! Trapeze artists, acrobats, popcorn, cotton candy, unicycles and clowns. Moschino’s Creative Director Jeremy Scott is reaching into the circus of today’s events and pulling a rabbit out of a hat – or rather, a tiger.

This season is Moschino’s answer to the current state of affairs. From peony-pink ruched tulle dresses with giant multi-colored daisy appliques, to harlequin Lurex brocade suits, silk georgette gowns with floral appliques outlined in tiny crystals, tiny round paillettes mirrors dotting a floor-length black gown.

The message is a cinematic bow to the accusations, the scandal, the “news” of today. Scott asks us to step into the Moschino house of mirrors with him as he breathes joy, levity and life into the uncertainty. However, this collection is acutely aware of the act from which it must distract. There is a darker side to the mirth and frivolity.

A literal dove-covered bodysuit is juxtaposed by gold cord soutache embroidery shaped in the outline of a skeleton is a key thematic element on tuxedo suits, tracksuits and jumpsuits. Blood-red beaded embroidery over a nude tulle gown creates a visually “slashed” and “torn” illusion beneath an operatic ruched tulle overcoat.

Carefully sewn metallic bugle beads hang from colorful polka dots on a white gown looking like an illusion of dripping paint, unfinished and abandoned. The message is clear – amidst the adversity, there is hope. This is communicated in the vibrant metallic trinkets stitched into quilted black tulle – just slightly obscured but dazzling in its own right.

A superhero bodysuit beneath a literal red satin cape, a lion tamer tuxedo in a beaded sequin leopard pattern – lean into the unknown, embrace it, become fearlessness itself. When society feels like a tightrope walker leaning in the wind, Scott is here to entertain astonish and impress. So step right up, admit one, run away with the circus and … let the show begin!

 

Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women's Resort Collection Look 2 Los Angeles
Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women's Resort Collection Look 3 Los Angeles
Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women's Resort Collection Look 4 Los Angeles
Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women's Resort Collection Look 5 Los Angeles
Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women's Resort Collection Look 6 Los Angeles
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Thu, June 21 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MOSCHINO SPRING SUMMER 2019 MENSWEAR + WOMEN’S RESORT COLLECTION FASHION SHOW LIVE STREAMING – LOS ANGELES 8TH JUNE 2018 7.30 PM PDT

Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Womens Resort Collection Fashion Show Live Streaming Los Angeles

Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Womens Resort Collection Fashion Show Live Streaming

Watch the Moschino Spring Summer 2019 Menswear and Women’s Resort Collection Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Los Angeles 8th June 2018 7.30 PM PDT. Stay Tuned…!!!
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Thu, June 7 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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