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ACNE STUDIOS FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Acne Studios Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Acne Studios Fashion Show FW 2018

 

“I wanted to make a collection about pure creativity, so we started by asking some kids to draw their idea of clothes. The naive shapes were enlightening when brought to life. It was a jumping off point for a fresh way of thinking about fashion.”
– Jonny Johansson, Creative Director

A collection of experiment and wearability in menswear, with a new eye on wardrobe staples. Throughout, vivid colours such as blues and reds sit alongside muted tones of camel and grey. Striped, loose knitted tops have extended sleeves and a large patch pocket at the hem. 2D square bodied sweaters are made from just two panels, following a child’s imagined idea of a knit.

Single breasted tailoring is pressed with new body, with creases placed away from the usual. Pants are cropped and slightly flared, the cut-out pockets with bonded hems. Wools are woven with synthetics to create textures like terrain. The fabrics are used on snap-fastening duffels, either full body, or as a panel across the shoulders of a camel duffel.

Knitwear is key to the collection, and a focus for experiments. A snap-fastened cardigan combines natural and synthetic yarns with an elastic hem. Sweaters with wavy stripes mix richness of yarns, adding pop to homespun stitches. Checked technical cotton is bonded onto shearling for a zip-up jacket, the zip pleasingly chunky. Shetland wool single breasted coats are fastened with rubberised black metallic circles.

An oversized yarn twill is used for a boxy take on the denim jacket. Shetland wool is used for a V-neck, while camel wool cloth is cut to make a crewneck sweater. Fine crewneck sweaters have been embroidered in fluffy yarn with childlike motifs: a star, a rocket, planets.

Leather lace-ups have oversized eyelets that continue around the ankle, while hold all-bags use the terrain pattern of the collection. Necklaces have been knitted from metallic yarn.

 

FW 2018-19 Acne Studios Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Acne Studios
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Acne Studios
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Acne Studios
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Acne Studios
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Wed, February 14 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

LANVIN FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Lanvin Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Lanvin Fashion Show FW 2018

 

“I focused on the most classic, almost passé item, drawn directly from the legacy and origin of the Lanvin man: the suit. What is a suit? Two pieces, a jacket and trousers, cut from the same fabric. I wanted to deconstruct this idea, using layering. For me, these combinations make a modern suit. I wanted to create a smokescreen. “

For Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin Menswear Creative Director, the season is all about where modernity and sartorial tradition meet. From the most classic English fabrics is born a brand new, hybrid and urban look. The shape of a suit is precise with no shoulder pads, a narrow waist, a broader back and ironed-in pleats. Here however everything has a different take: a finely striped coat has military jacket detailing.

The suit trousers worn with it, cut in the same fabric, are like combat pants: cotton inlay, gusseted pockets, velcro. A part-technical, part-suit parka jacket sports an asymmetric zip around the collar to reveal the detail of a shirt and jacket. Elements mix up in a new play on fabrics. Stripes and checks match and clash on the edge of abstraction. The shapes meld, only distinguishable thanks to a few contrasts. Urban details are many in this wardrobe that has been as meticulously produced as ever.

For Lucas Ossendrijver, a suit is also a form of camouflage. He toys with prints: animal outlines, plant, tree and flower patterns mix together, from the most natural colours to the most nocturnal, almost toxic. Inspired by outdoor wear, fleece jackets and coats are designed like big covers. Asymmetric knits are draped and worn with wide sleeve-shaped scarves.

Combat pants are combined with a soft, quilted leather bomber jacket. An entirely hand-painted shearling sweatshirt is worn over a suit. On a reflective leather parka jacket, the shearling-lined collar turns into a hood. Stripes, threads and studs, traditional and technical fabrics, military and urban details: everything is layered together without ever clashing…as if it was always meant to be.

The same research was carried out for the accessories. The soles of the shoes were developed in 3D whilst the sneakers have heat-sealed relief inlay. ID badges, worn across the chest, are in transparent lizard skin whilst the bags evoke map cases and lunch boxes. Jewellery is layered like lucky charms, in raffia or burnt straw.

 

FW 2018-19 Lanvin Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Lanvin
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Lanvin
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Lanvin
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Lanvin
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Tue, February 13 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MAISON MARGIELA FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Synergy happens when several codes are unified in one new language. In his first menswear collection at Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano joins together classic symbols of the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new glamour. An overcoat is hacked up into a jacket, a trench coat is spliced with a formal coat, while others are reduced to their core using the décortiqué technique.

The concept of dressing in haste, established in the Artisanal line, is at the core of the Fall Winter 2018 collection informing cuts. Humble menswear staples such as the greatcoat, the nylon sports jacket and the cable knit are re- positioned and collaged with sartorial heritage tailoring. Appropriating the inappropriate, an Aran knit cardigan appears in all-rubber. A navy bomber is flocked with shadow effects that imitate wear.

Introducing Artisanal pieces to the Maison’s menswear, a relaxed suit is cut on the bias, an innovative first for sartorial dressing. The show is presented on the backdrop of a synergistic glyph, a new symbol imbued with a positive message for the house and echoed in the décortiqué back of a Mackintosh coat. Known as the SMS, the Security Margiela Sneaker makes its debut alongside heeled men’s Tabi boots and menswear interpretations of the recently launched Glam Slam bag.

‘New comprehensions of glamour are the modern-day synergy of dressing; desires that bind us together across identities and wardrobes.’ – Maison Margiela

Materials

Fabrics native to the men’s wardrobe such as Harris Tweed, herringbone, flannel and a wealth of wools are contrasted by the artificial nature of rubber and poly-urethane. Polyester gabardine and nylon nod at sportswear while leathers and knitwear draw on menswear classics.

Technique

Tailoring takes centre stage, from sartorial 1940s silhouettes and military cutting to rare and mercurial bias-cutting using properties from the Artisanal line. Transforming traditional tailoring, staples from the men’s wardrobe are spliced or hacked up for new expressions. Maison Margiela’s term for cutting up a garment to its frame, the technique of décortiqué is applied to coats and knits. Rubber is moulded to imitate knitwear. Flocking simulates shadow play, while pigment print adds painted-over effects.

Palette

Drawing on the traditional men’s and military wardrobes, black, navy, charcoal and melange grey set the tone for the collection. The muted colours are interrupted by Klein blue, red, bright yellow and orange, hinting at the palette of sportswear. The presence of white cements the Maison Margiela signature.

Accessories

Rooted in heirloom jewellery, rhinestone chokers and military buttons worn as brooches correspond with the memory of medals, cast from rubber moulds. Bracelets and belts are graphically coloured in leather, foiled leather and transparent PVC. Chains appear as belt and necklaces, while one necklace carries a cravat as medal. The collection introduces the SMS, the Security Margiela Sneaker: a steel- toe-capped trainer with a vibram sole, in white, black, red, yellow and blue. The puffa slipper is constructed in waterproof cordura nylon with a crêpe gum sole, while décortiqué cowboy boots and the Tabi – flat or with a six-centimetre heel – underline house codes.

 

FW 2018-19 Maison Margiela Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Maison Margiela
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Maison Margiela
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Maison Margiela
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Maison Margiela
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Tue, February 13 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

YOHJI YAMAMOTO FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Yohji Yamamoto Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Yohji Yamamoto Fashion Show FW 2018
FW 2018-19 Yohji Yamamoto Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Yohji Yamamoto
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Yohji Yamamoto
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Yohji Yamamoto
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Yohji Yamamoto
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Wed, February 7 2018 » Fashion Blog » Comments Off

MOSCHINO FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION AND WOMEN’S PRE-FALL – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Moschino Fashion Show 2018 Milan
Moschino Fashion Show Pre-Fall Woman 2018

 

Overt/Covert

Clothes help bind us to our gender. They define us. But confine us? For Fall Winter and Pre-Fall 2018, Moschino teases, tests and twists the conventional boundaries of masculine and feminine in search of re-evaluation, liberation, and stimulation. Jeremy Scott says: “For this collection I wanted to play around with the idea of mixing masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way. So as well some overt dress codes of gender – maybe pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him.”

For Pre-Fall Moschino’s womenswear collection, Scott’s story features the firm smack of fetishised discipline; tailored jackets and pants, a dress, a white men’s shirt, and a parka all worn under PVC body-stockings and gimp masks. Some of these pieces are decorated with safety-pin attached patches on which words in tabloid font shout suggestively; “STUD”, “FETISH”, “X-rated”, “SPANK”, “PLEASURE”, “PAIN”, to name a few. Other pieces – like a Hepburn-perfect green tweed coat – come apparently unadorned until you investigate the attached corset on the back. Spaghetti-strapped, lace-edged black slip dresses are teamed with a tabloid-patch high-cut bomber jacket or tricep-high PVC gloves that gleamingly highlight the articulation of the limb.

A nuanced feminine overture sees Scott set on the appropriation and reprogramming of some of masculine clothing’s most fixed formal algorithms. The cummerbund is retooled as the center of gravity for a fitted black dress, teamed with a high-fronted tail-coat whose tails morph into button-holedold-school men’s suspenders. Suspenders – clipped and elasticated this time – are similarly deployed as unexpected masculine accents to hold up the bodice of a PVC booted bad-girl-show-girl look. Pinstripe or plain black tuxedos, reduxed and recut, are smokingly subversive; cut-away panels, inverted double armholes and midriff-hinting high waistcoats undercut the externalised language of formal masculinity with feminised depth. A pinstripe jacket is slashed apart across the sternum and held aloft – along with the bodice beneath it – by more suspenders.

One overtly decorative element is a series of pretty-silhouette dresses in often pleated printed silk crepe. The twist? Those prints, often abstracted by the in and out folds of the fabric, reproduce the sensually illicit Polaroids of Italian furniture designer Carlo Mollino. As well as a fiercely independent designer, Mollino had a secret passion for photographing always-anonymous one-time-only models in poses of apparent wantonness – here Scott takes these male-gaze made erotic images and reappropriates them for the female wearer.
The almost – but-not-quite – crescendo for Pre sees a series of archetypally feminine gowns in maroon velvet or black silk played against a black strapless gown that features a bias cut train cut in the shape of an enormous black satin glove.

Just as Scott articulates his much in his female looks via a language conventionally deemed masculine, so he inverts the process in Moschino’ s Autumn Winter 2018 menswear collection.

Here the story features with less slap, more tickle. Mirroring Pre, we see those tabloid-font patched parkas and tailored pieces reissued, all worn below equestrian helmet-caps that whisper of the riding crop. Tailcoats are cut away at the shoulder and then held up by suspender. The bad-girl-show-girl look is mirrored in an ensemble of tailcoat (whose tail is feminised with soft gather and fold) cummberbund, and black PVC underpants. An artificially unfinished pinstripe double breasted jacket is delivered with just one breast, to be worn jauntily off-the-shoulder. Tailcoats and tailored pants come in ditzy floral, while in outerwear more conventionally masculine fabrics – gray tweed, russet wool – are lent a jolt of gender-fluidity via the insertion of panels and trains in floral or jewelled boucle at the back.

Moschino woman and Moschino man come together – conjoined by a tandem tuxedo jacket built for for two and linked at the tail. Apart yet together. Mutual objects of opposition and attraction. Women and Men.

 

FW 2018-19 Moschino Fashion Show
Woman Model Fashion Show Moschino
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Moschino
Pre-Fall 2018 Womenswear Moschino
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Moschino
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Wed, February 7 2018 » Fashion Blog » Comments Off

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