A MAN OF STYLE
The centre of gravity for trousers and jackets is considerably higher, shoulders are wider, as are waists to a lesser degree, and lapels are more obvious: for AW 2016 the Corneliani man builds his style by looking to the fashion of the 1940s.
He analyses, masters and revitalizes it, interpreting it through the lens of contemporary language, where elegance wavers between two extremes: essential versatility and the supreme quality of the details, an increasing indicator of class and shaper of personality.
This is the framework for a much softer, more rounded, deconstructed, lighter style, fashioned most appealingly from exquisite, enveloping materials.
The retro feel – from crocheted details on the waistcoats to micro-geometric effects borrowed from the archives and herringbones, so subtle they look like pinstripes both micro and macro – reflects 1940s elegance in the shape of caramel, bark brown and tobacco coloured suits and peacock green and lead grey jackets, both single and double breasted.
Mid-length cashmere coats are oversized and designed to be tied at the waist; the nylon trench is ultra-lightweight, while stitching and astrakhan touches play down the sporty look of the bomber jacket.
The stiff, textured feel of post-Second-World-War fashion is hinted at subtly in the contours of the designs, which break away from the body to restore a sense of independent strength to fashion, all with a whisper of nostalgia.
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MORE THAN DETAILS
It is the art of tailoring which dictates the rules for Corneliani, even when they are overturned. While rigorous construction and exquisite materials – cotton, linen and silk through to the results of the highest textile technology – remain untouched, it is the volumes which are fashioning a new language.
At the heart of the revolution lies the body’s centre of gravity, sending out concentric waves of elegance with opposite meanings. They are instantly embraced and taken to such heights of sophistication and synthesis that only the faintest hint remains of the original dichotomy: there are whispered tribal echoes, as seen in the neo-Prince of Wales patterns and flattened matting effects, and in the trousers with outstanding pleats, a nod to the sarongs worn by ancient man. More than a mere accessory, the longer waistband which clinches the waist becomes a frontal structural feature which celebrates the return of the high waist.
The same non-conformist rigour is found in the new suit, which now comes with Bermuda shorts too. Supremely elegant pinstripes trace vertical lines on linen designs, creating a degree of lightness which only the independence of inborn class can afford.
Trench coats come with large pleats on the back, in lengths which fall gracefully to the calf, taking the pockets with them – sartorial details which are now filled with spontaneous style. Squared-off jackets are almost surgical in feel, while cuts are stripped down to a minimum in the ultra-simple loose leather T-shirts.
Colours are never intense, but rather delicately powdery, suspended in the atmosphere of a desert sunset. Periwinkle sky blue, sandy beige and the palest stone grey are lit up by a sunshine amaranth red.
What emerges is an independent personality, rooted so firmly in the rules of elegant style that it enables the Corneliani man to make the decisive jump on his pathway to freedom.
Sun, June 28 2015 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Corneliani © Copyright 2015
CORNELIANI MAN: A PRINCE
From a multitude of styles and languages there emerges the figure of man as a prince: young and confident, free and determined. He is aware of the choices afforded him, and adores change. He reacts to the immobility of form with eccentric touches and unexpected flourishes, such as overcoats finished with a generous knitted shawl collar or a fur biker jacket.
His wardrobe is surprising for its noble fabrics, from knotted wool with a three- dimensional or carded finish and graduated grey mink – needled with exclusive yarn wefts – to cashmere designs with leather details; they multiply the many different solutions reflecting the identity of Corneliani’s prince, as multi-faceted and sophisticated as the natural world around him.
The fusion between formal and luxury casual is emphasized by the dominance of blue and grey, centred on a type of elegance open to different solutions. In this world, varying styles and freedom of movement blend together to control the chaos of nature.
Choosing a long double-breasted overcoat does not rule out single-breasted designs or parkas and short jackets embellished with fur trimming or generous peak lapels. There’s no time for ties: instead there are small neck scarves to round off the luxurious, totally unrestricted image.
Closer-fitting jackets still flow easily with dropped shoulders and comfortably sized sleeves.
Pleated trousers are soft over the hips but end in a drainpipe design which brushes the ankles. The shoes capture a philosophy which combines the modern and the classic: traditional designs come with thicker soles to keep the feet firmly in contact with reality.
A penchant for graphic-style patterns – some of them optical – shadows a gentle world of graduated, slightly distorted and irregular designs, ending in a flourish of floral prints on the knitwear.
Blue – from ink to more brilliant shades – is offset by subtle plant-like greens; sudden flashes of purple break through into the palette of greys, from the lightest, brightest tones through to black and white, also seen in monochrome versions.
Eponymous with strength and stability, a deeply-rooted tree encapsulates the brand’s ties to its values: the finest tailoring is fundamental but reworked with the freedom of an ideal contemporary world close to nature, as interpreted by Corneliani’s prince in a new take on refined elegance.
Sat, January 24 2015 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Corneliani © Copyright 2014
The spotlight is on every possible shade of white – from ice and cream to pearl and mastic, through to delicate powdery sky blues and sage greens – and its direct counterpart, black: a timeless keynote and the only concession to dark colours.
Menswear is moving away from more rigid templates towards a fresh, new, easier take on elegance inspired by younger wardrobes but embellished with luxurious fabrics and stylish details.
The rule is to wear one size larger than usual: laidback streetwear echoes the free spirits who express themselves on the streets of a fast-paced world as it reacts to the uncertainties of the present, always ready to grasp what comes its way.
The structure of the jacket is never restrictive: it does not overlook the sartorial ethic – that historic bastion of elegance so dear to Corneliani – but reinterprets it, retracing the needs of a man far-removed from the static self-contemplation of the past.
Clothes reflect a lifestyle based on constant movement, in a dialogue between very different scenarios. This form of elegance is comfortable and universal, ideal for a range of occasions and age groups, for men who are not restricted by increasingly outmoded, rigid masculinity.
The brand’s creative director Sergio Corneliani sees the suit as the real challenge. Designed around unusual volumes, innovative materials and new uses, it loses its inflexible imprint and takes on a democratic, informal look in a perfect blend of subtle bohemian style and chic sportswear.
Classic sartorial patterns have been swept aside in favour of rich compact stretch cottons, blended with silk in micro jacquard effects.
The jacket is short and looser on the waist, with three buttons and narrow lapels.
It is worn with baggy trousers (with pleats) which drape over the shoes, or designs without pleats which are comfortable on the hips but always short and with turn-ups. There is also a revolution in the classic shirt, now looser in style with lower shoulders and a funnel neck.
The must-have piece for spring/summer 2015 is the T-shirt in soft leather or ultra- lightweight cashmere printed with monochrome graphics.A symbol of Corneliani’s new aesthetics is the square-shaped blouson jacket which sits just above the hips.
More casual pieces include hooded parkas and trench coats in high-performance cotton with transpiring, water-repellent, windproof membranes.
“In my role as father to three very young men and the brand’s creative director,” explains Sergio Corneliani, “I believe we must look to the future with confidence and flexibility.
“Today I would extend our brand’s historic slogan, ‘The continuity of the past in the present’, to include ‘… on our journey towards the future’, as we reach out to the customers of tomorrow.”
Wed, June 25 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments