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COACH 1941 FALL WINTER 2018 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Coach 1941 Fashion Show FW 2018 New-York
Coach 1941 Fashion Show FW 2018
FW 2018-19 Coach 1941 Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Coach 1941
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Coach 1941
Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Coach 1941
Man Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Coach 1941
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Thu, February 22 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

BOTTEGA VENETA FALL WINTER 2018 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Bottega Veneta Fashion Show FW 2018 New-York
Bottega Veneta Fashion Show FW 2018 Womenswear

 

From Milan to Manhattan. This season, Bottega Veneta presents its Fall / Winter 2018 women’s and men’s collections for one season only in New York City to celebrate the opening of the new Maison flagship store at 740 Madison Avenue.

With its longtime motto “When your own initials are enough,” Bottega Veneta has always celebrated fierce individualism. The idea takes flight in homage to the spirit of New York women and men who are free to fearlessly express themselves in a city that’s seen everything. “New Yorkers have a real bravery and boldness,” says Tomas Maier. “Nothing stops them. Nothing seems impossible.” For women, that means a wardrobe filled with unexpected textures and a vast palette of unique colors. The look is finished off with statement-making boots on a pavement-friendly low heel and a bag that’s both an artisanal masterpiece and pragmatic essential like the Palio Fringe Tote. For men, it means the sophisticated eccentricity of animal print shirting, harlequin checked tailoring and brashly patterned socks worn with “corduroy” suede loafers in jewel hues.

The collection explores the various facets of life in New York, including the necessary escape from the city’s intense whirl of activity, whether to the wilderness of the country or the serenity of one’s home. “I was thinking about the way of life in the city, which goes from one extreme to another” says Maier. “It’s hyper-motion and then it falls into almost total seclusion.” The Fall/Winter collection includes clothes that are designed to exist in the comfort of a beautifully appointed apartment—floral pajama silks for both men and women, and ethereally soft evening dresses, for women, that can both lounge and live it up.

The runway set is also defined by contrast and curating a world of one’s own. In this case, it’s the merger of New York and Italy, seen in a stark Brutalist backdrop filled with sensual Italian design—both iconic vintage pieces and Bottega Veneta’s Furniture collection. That eclectic mix echoes the Maison, our new permanent home in New York which is designed to be as comfortable as your own. “The Maison is inspired by the city in which it’s located, but it’s filled with Italian-made products and even Italian art,” explains Maier. “The idea of provenance is so important in the world of Bottega Veneta. The brand comes from a specific place that tells you a story. I wanted to bring that idea of a sense of place to our new store.”

The overarching vision of the season is rooted in architecture—a long-time passion of Tomas Maier and a defining ideal of the brand—drawing inspiration from the iconic and modern structures that are unmistakably New York. From there, Maier extracts the detail of the cube as a motif that weaves its way through the women’s and men’s collections. “It’s like a brick,” says Maier. “We use it to build the foundation.”

The perfect simplicity of the geometric form is utilized to create graphic patterns with surreal shifting perspectives. For women, it’s evident in richly hued intarsia silk dresses, lush shearling coats and on iconic bags including The Lauren 1980 and The Knot Clutch. Used in this season’s women’s jewelry, the cube turns earrings, rings and cuffs into artful sculpture in miniature. For men, there are joyously colorful intarsia patterns on felted grey cashmere crewnecks and jackets pieced together with precise, knife-sharp cubic forms.

The cube is an evolution of The Intrecciato Checker square introduced last spring. The checker continues for Fall/ Winter. The new women’s bag this season, a drum-shaped zippered tote called The Tambura comes in a variety of checker workmanships including Intrecciato Abstract and Paisley Checker. The men’s Intrecciato Checker Totes of spring are recast for fall in bolder colors. The most compelling new men’s bag for fall, however, comes in solid nappa. The MI-NY is a shoulder duffle designed with thoughtful and instinctive functionality to be the ultimate travel bag.

The cube’s architectural boldness is balanced with subtlety as Maier translates the sparkle of the skyline with a delicate silver chain embroidery that has a clever trompe l’oeil effect. It appears at first to be a top-stitch or windowpane pattern on tailored jackets, while bestowing a blink-and-miss twinkle on dense plaid coats. “It’s a very Bottega Veneta detail,” says Maier. “You have to get up close to the product to discover and appreciate it.”

 

FW 2018-19 Bottega Veneta Women Fashion Show
Woman Model Fashion Show Bottega Veneta
Woman FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Bottega Veneta
Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Bottega Veneta
Woman Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Bottega Veneta
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Tue, February 20 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

RAF SIMONS FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Raf Simons Fashion Show FW 2018 New-York
Raf Simons Fashion Show FW 2018

 

‘Youth In Motion’

Christiane F. – Uli Edel’s visceral 1981 film (based on Christiane Felscherinow, Kai Hermann and Horst Rieck’s book Christiane F. – Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo) has long occupied a pivotal place in Raf Simons’ imagination. Simons, like many Europeans of his generation, was exposed to the harrowing world of Christiane F. in high school, where the film and the book were discussed as a part of the curriculum. Set in late 1970s, cold war-era Berlin – the Berlin of David Bowie’s Low, Heroes and Lodger – Christiane F. ultimately remains a cautionary tale, one that unashamedly and unapologetically depicts the realities of drug use and addiction. Images of Detlev and Christiane F., the film’s anti-heroes – as played by first-time actors Thomas Haustein and Natja Brunckhorst – populate ‘Youth In Motion’ as emotional markers for the persistent relevance – socially and psychologically – of Christiane F.’s story and Edel’s film.

Elsewhere Simons counters the often brutal nature of Christiane F.’s adolescence with sardonic texts drawn from Cookie Mueller (1949-1989) and Glenn O’Brien’s (1947-2017) ‘lost’ mid-1980s tragic-comic play Drugs, another kind of cautionary tale that chronicles the “chemical entanglements” of its straight-out-of-central-casting protagonists. The utilitarian design of the 2016 edition of Drugs (The Kingsboro Press/For The Common Good) – published with yellow and orange covers – is a recurring visual motif throughout ‘Youth In Motion’, as are Simons’ subsequent adaptations of its ‘basic’ design to create a series of applied, color-coded patches that index, in a deadpan manner akin to the Periodic Table, the abbreviated names of narcotic substances: ‘LSD’, ‘XTC’, ‘GHB’ and ’2C-B’, each with their own specific generational and (sub)cultural associations.

‘Youth In Motion’ implies movement – across space and time, and between inner and external realities – and draws freely from the lexicons of art, cinema, literature, music, the counter culture and the ‘attitude’ of couture. ‘Youth In Motion’ is presented in a mise-en-scene that echoes the salons of mid-century couture houses: the discrete number of models employed, the numbering system that identifies specific looks, and the opulent tableaux (food, drink, and flowers), itself reminiscent of a Flemish still-life. ‘Youth In Motion’ contrasts the volume and extravagant materiality of couture (evident in Simons’ use of satin duchesse) with the more utilitarian manners of pocketed ‘space’ pants and hooded tabards with their indexical narcotic references.

Ultimately, ‘Youth In Motion’ seeks to neither glorify nor condone the culture(s) of drugs; rather Simons seeks instead to consider the persistent, almost ubiquitous presence of narcotics (prescribed or otherwise) within our society and acknowledge our often conflicted relationships with them; in turn opening up a more nuanced dialog around the implications for a society where addiction and the causes of addiction remain largely taboo subjects, with – as both Christiane F. and the current opioid crisis demonstrate – often untold human consequences.

Part of the proceeds from sales of the ‘Youth In Motion’ collection will be donated to organizations that support those in recovery from addiction. Food from the presentation of ‘Youth In Motion’ will be donated to City Harvest: “Rescuing Food For New York’s Hungry”. To learn more, visit www.cityharvest.org.

Raf Simons would like to acknowledge everyone involved with the book and film adaptation of Christiane F. – Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo for their commitment to and enthusiasm for this collaboration. He would also like to acknowledge the representatives of Cookie Mueller and Glenn O’Brien as well as The Kingsboro Press / For The Common Good for their permission to incorporate elements of Mueller and O’Brien’s play Drugs in ‘Youth In Motion.’

 

FW 2018-19 Raf Simons Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Raf Simons
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Raf Simons
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Raf Simons
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Tue, February 20 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

VALENTINO FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Valentino Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Valentino Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild 75008 Paris January 17th, 2018

Romanticism: a subtle subversion of interiority laid bare. Giving shape to the freedom of being oneself, without labels and without belongings. Grace as a way of being and as a mean of expression.

Aristopunk: the delicate rebellion that sprouts from awareness. Breaking the schemes, bringing what is known to unknown territories to making it conventional. The extraordinary that becomes ordinary.

Free associations give meaning to new uniforms. Sleight adjustments are individual quivers on dry and vertical figures. The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base.

The short bomber, the down jackets, created in collaboration with Moncler, the nylon messenger bag and the white sneakers as elements of a revised urban repertoire. Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive and constructive artistry leads the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine, making it normal.

A binding sequence of blue, black and grey. Unexpected and interior, harmonies of off tones of turquoise, dark green, mint green and purple. Romanticism as an authentic urgency to show oneself for what one is, not a garrulous ostentation of how one would like to appear.

Authentic rebellion has a grace. It does not scream, it is a state of mind.
#ValentinoMenFW1819

 

FW 2018-19 Valentino Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Valentino
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Valentino
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Valentino
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Valentino
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Tue, February 20 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ACNE STUDIOS FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Acne Studios Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Acne Studios Fashion Show FW 2018

 

“I wanted to make a collection about pure creativity, so we started by asking some kids to draw their idea of clothes. The naive shapes were enlightening when brought to life. It was a jumping off point for a fresh way of thinking about fashion.”
– Jonny Johansson, Creative Director

A collection of experiment and wearability in menswear, with a new eye on wardrobe staples. Throughout, vivid colours such as blues and reds sit alongside muted tones of camel and grey. Striped, loose knitted tops have extended sleeves and a large patch pocket at the hem. 2D square bodied sweaters are made from just two panels, following a child’s imagined idea of a knit.

Single breasted tailoring is pressed with new body, with creases placed away from the usual. Pants are cropped and slightly flared, the cut-out pockets with bonded hems. Wools are woven with synthetics to create textures like terrain. The fabrics are used on snap-fastening duffels, either full body, or as a panel across the shoulders of a camel duffel.

Knitwear is key to the collection, and a focus for experiments. A snap-fastened cardigan combines natural and synthetic yarns with an elastic hem. Sweaters with wavy stripes mix richness of yarns, adding pop to homespun stitches. Checked technical cotton is bonded onto shearling for a zip-up jacket, the zip pleasingly chunky. Shetland wool single breasted coats are fastened with rubberised black metallic circles.

An oversized yarn twill is used for a boxy take on the denim jacket. Shetland wool is used for a V-neck, while camel wool cloth is cut to make a crewneck sweater. Fine crewneck sweaters have been embroidered in fluffy yarn with childlike motifs: a star, a rocket, planets.

Leather lace-ups have oversized eyelets that continue around the ankle, while hold all-bags use the terrain pattern of the collection. Necklaces have been knitted from metallic yarn.

 

FW 2018-19 Acne Studios Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Acne Studios
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Acne Studios
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Acne Studios
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Acne Studios
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Wed, February 14 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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