My appointment as creative director of Iceberg surprised and thrilled me. For my debut I decided to start from this brand’s most authentic DNA: knitwear, element comprising more than 80% of the new spring-summer 2016 Iceberg collection.
Working alongside artisans is a continual discovery: the transition from idea to reality has never come so natural to me. Above all, the very technique, the know-how have become a source of inspiration.
I took my place face to face with the 40 years of Iceberg history with a keen sense of curiosity and a wish for great fun. I felt as if I were stepping outside the radar of my own plan of action so as to bring what I know and what I like into a new and interesting territory.
The army aesthetic and a sport type of cut, both intrinsic to the Iceberg style, were the incipit of my story. To these I added a streak of madness, a playful spirit drawing upon the multicolor creativity and the sense of humor of Enrico Baj, an Italian artist I admire for his carefree concept of anarchy.
My intent is to give shape – through clothing – to the idea of freshness and energy emblematic of today’s world. With Iceberg I’d like to build an easy wardrobe at once cosmopolitan, irreverent and sensual. Knit fabric, in the role of raw material, is perfect for fulfilling this task.
It’s a narrative tool able to capture and express the urge to break the rules all while staying true to tradition. Finally, there’s my love for sharp graphics and for its opposite, disorderliness.
Jacquard and vinyl. Straight lines and soft lines. Optical designs and flat surfaces. In looking at the collection what comes to my mind is a melodic score out of rhythm in a few spots.
It mirrors my aesthetic: rigor and anarchy, a counterpoint that leads me to stretch the style to its limits. Then stop and glance backward, with levity.
Thu, January 21 2016 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
The strong personality of women. In this collection, Iceberg is telling the story of an elegant 1970s aviator: strength, determination and femininity.
Knitwear in primary colors – red, blue color block mode – tempered by beige and gray. Graphic lines: airplanes and a Sottsass spirit meet in an interplay of colored stripes on knits and outerwear.
Cropped aviator jackets in shearling intersected by shiny leather strips. Belts, cut like corsets, that hug and highlight the waist.
We fly, prints are images shot from above. We fly over fields of orchids. We see airport runways. Strict lines, straight cut dresses and tops structured by the high-waisted belts. Blue, black and orchids.
Everything is mixed and the flowers dominate the lines. The heel and sole of shoes are made with pine or mahogany wood, as in ‘70s modernist furniture.
Suede, leather and vinyl define low boots and high cuissards. Here are the two souls of the woman aviator. Strong and sweet.
Severity gradually gives way to livelier shapes in colorful stripes. Glossy black and white vinyl imbue the sporty sweaters with a strong feeling, in contrast to delicate white orchid embroideries.
Tue, June 16 2015 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
Summer, super summer! Palm Springs, Californian summery feeling to an active city woman. It all starts with blocks of intense color – blue, red, pink – and the black and white of the micro prints : patchworks designed as Memphis furniture. High-waisted trousers and lapels with slogans such as popsicles package.
California and color: it can not be more summer! The fuchsia and orange are the uniform of the heroine of a video game. Fully printed mini dresses, jackets and pants.
Step by step, black and white is taking over, graphic prints, stripes and organic shapes for a technoïd turn. In a dream where the dragon fruit is the main character, wardrobe for the night. Black is structuring the fantasy. Virtual versus real movement : video game and sports.
Keyword: canyoning. Water and stone. Cuts and rounded edges like scuba suits: zip and straps. Let’s play, pasting stickers everywhere … fruits, spaceships, cocktails and climbers glitter applications on ultra lightweight chiffon … Sparkling plastron covered by a draping of soft embroidery.
Robust leather strap sandals with solid and curved forms heels, rubber effect to the touch. Belts as climbing gear on each silhouette, bucket bags and eyewear reminding the diving ones.
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
“Rebirth in nature”
A journey deep into Nature. Exploration of the natural universe. Ultimately leading us on a path toward self awareness and self discovery. Introspection and natural essence: two distinct worlds that the Iceberg man always makes his own.
The rigor of the design process keeps apparent disorder in line. That’s the Iceberg way: as in Nature, it’s the secret to attaining perfection, passing through creative chaos.
Soft ergonomic shapes. A fine ‘90s flair, contemporary street style. Natural ease of motion, for the blithest of moods. A palette of earth tones, sky nuances, floral hues: brown, beige, orange, blue. Hints of azure and fuchsia shades.
Prints expressing an oneiric idea of Nature. Macro abstract rose petals offset by flashes of chromatic contrast. Colorful plumes in fanciful formation as a symbol of community belonging. And then tie-dye motifs for a sense of total freedom, pure escape.
A tribute to brand archives: Mickey Mouse in arty avant-garde version. Silk, cotton, cashmere and linen: pure natural fibers. Cotton with a slick techno finish, yet also with all the appeal of a perfectly natural fabric.
Wed, July 9 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
In the late 60’s, Parisian High Society escapes to the mountains for an acid moonlight party getaway. This is the mood of the FW 2014 Iceberg women collection. Dream of an Alpine resort merging winter sports and art spirit; a post modern town in the cloudy mountains, built in powerful bright colors and concrete materials.
Using the playful, sporty and arty DNA of the brand in a new way, the collection is also inspired by plastic toys and colorful designs of the space age, in addition to the elegant yet a bit sloppy attitude mandatory to the young Parisian generation. The big squared seal ring makes the link throughout the show, a fil rouge unifying and identifying each of them as part of this new fellowship.
It starts with the « rive gauche bourgeoise ». Kraft color masculine neoprene costumes over white sweaters with bright mink collars that remind vintage ski outfits. The rubber belt detail, between the sporty technical accessory and plastic toy. And on their feet, the girls are wearing sharp metallic shoes.
Then, transparent plastic rectangles move forward as a frenetic trip, growing into the Agam girls. Multicolor embellishments, lacquered and embroidered, arise on the pleated chiffon skirts inspired by the work of artist Yaacov Agam. Mixed with those playful panels, deep colored raw edges felts and sporty knitwear focus the silhouette into the alpine winter feeling. The satellite t-shirt is an allusion to the dream of a journey to a new world.
Making a turn into more « protective » garments, these Alpine ravers are wearing long military parkas and black leather pants. Padded, quilted, the silhouette is assuredly day wear and urban. As the music gets louder, colors turn technoid. Hyper pleated fabrics and knits are scratched by the « electro-graffiti » print. A powerful souvenir of Alexis’s adolescence.
The final destination is near. Acid trance into the molecular mineral spheres. Silver laminated jumpers and light pink knits are mixed with deconstructed chiffon drapings. Embellished with blue felt or glass tube straps, and graphic patches illustrating new kinds of molecules and fantasy landscapes that depict possible foundations of a world in another dimension.
Tue, April 15 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments