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MAISON MARGIELA FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Maison Margiela propels its vision forward to an innate new language and wardrobe based on the vocabulary established through the Artisanal collection. Dressing in reverse is an idea as subversive as relaxed glamour: a trench coat worn casually under a dress, a jumper thrown over a blazer, or the glimpse of a fisherman’s knit under a transparent skirt. For Autumn – Winter 2018, creative director John Galliano examines the inverted wardrobe established at Maison Margiela.

The silhouettes of Haute Couture are clarified in garments realized in sculpturally magnified volumes. Outerwear transforms into dresses when dressing in haste. It’s a nylon coat worn under a décortiqué leather jacket, or a deconstructed salopette layered over a trench coat. Seducing the eye, illusionary materials create memories of the familiar.

A transparent hologram coat encasing multi-coloured layers of viscose fringing, tulle and organza evokes the codes of rodeo. A grey melange décortiqué jacket is encrusted with the memory of an Aran knit cast in rubber. Fusions of authentic wardrobe staples appropriate the inappropriate. It’s illustrated in the bonding of a herringbone blazer with a fisherman’s knit, or in a twill skirt embossed with the memory of a rodeo skirt. In a play between layers, transparency and reflection, garments become transformative and generate a sense of unconscious glamour.

Materials

Drawing on the Artisanal collection, holographic and transparent materials take centre stage. Iridescent foil, nylon, reflective flash-sensitive fabric and changeant react to light and movement, effectively shape-shifting on the body. Layered under poly-urethane, tulles and organza liquefy into three-dimensional forms encouraged by the texture of viscose fringing. The effect is echoed in the use of chiffon, voile and georgette. Heritage materials sourced from the men’s wardrobe – herringbone, cavalry twill, gabardine, wool of Aran knits – counter the collection’s technical character and instil a sense of authenticity. Leather appears in outerwear such as cabans and fringed décortiqué rodeo jackets.

Technique

Notions of relaxed glamour and dressing backwards inform cuts and silhouettes. The hybridisation of classic wardrobe staples calls for bonding and embroidery, employed throughout the collection such as in the fusion of knitwear with tailoring. Outerwear encases layers of materials to create new images through depth. Moulded rubber bears the recollection of knitwear, while formage – the three-dimensional embossing of twill – creates the imprinted memory of rodeo pieces.

Prints of similar motifs appear in multiple colours on transparent fabric layered to create a transformative filtrage. Cementing a house code, décortiqué – the reduction of a garment to its core – is exercised in outerwear similarly alluding to the memory of traditional items of clothing.

Palette

Heritage tones from the humble men’s wardrobe such as charcoal, beige, melange, off-white and black are offset by the boldness of security yellow, Klein blue and fuchsia. Greens and royal purple further add to a Technicolor palette nodding to the iridescence of the technical materials used in the collection.

Accessories

Inspired by the way in which contemporary tech gadgets serve as extensions of the body, jewellery takes on a prosthetic feel. Ear cuffs and tube rings in rubber and hand cuffs in rubber or chrome-plated brass follow the contours of the body, while diamonté brooches and earrings embellish the anatomy like growing organisms. Nodding to the idea of jewellery display cards, brooches are mounted on acetate boards. Chain belts in brass or rubber-coated metal link to rodeo.

Introduced in the Artisanal collection, the Margiela sneaker features in high-top and low-top editions, while the cloud-like Glam Slam bag appears in a new iridescent form.

 

FW 2018-19 Maison Margiela Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Maison Margiela
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Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Maison Margiela
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Thu, March 1 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MAISON MARGIELA FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Synergy happens when several codes are unified in one new language. In his first menswear collection at Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano joins together classic symbols of the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new glamour. An overcoat is hacked up into a jacket, a trench coat is spliced with a formal coat, while others are reduced to their core using the décortiqué technique.

The concept of dressing in haste, established in the Artisanal line, is at the core of the Fall Winter 2018 collection informing cuts. Humble menswear staples such as the greatcoat, the nylon sports jacket and the cable knit are re- positioned and collaged with sartorial heritage tailoring. Appropriating the inappropriate, an Aran knit cardigan appears in all-rubber. A navy bomber is flocked with shadow effects that imitate wear.

Introducing Artisanal pieces to the Maison’s menswear, a relaxed suit is cut on the bias, an innovative first for sartorial dressing. The show is presented on the backdrop of a synergistic glyph, a new symbol imbued with a positive message for the house and echoed in the décortiqué back of a Mackintosh coat. Known as the SMS, the Security Margiela Sneaker makes its debut alongside heeled men’s Tabi boots and menswear interpretations of the recently launched Glam Slam bag.

‘New comprehensions of glamour are the modern-day synergy of dressing; desires that bind us together across identities and wardrobes.’ – Maison Margiela

Materials

Fabrics native to the men’s wardrobe such as Harris Tweed, herringbone, flannel and a wealth of wools are contrasted by the artificial nature of rubber and poly-urethane. Polyester gabardine and nylon nod at sportswear while leathers and knitwear draw on menswear classics.

Technique

Tailoring takes centre stage, from sartorial 1940s silhouettes and military cutting to rare and mercurial bias-cutting using properties from the Artisanal line. Transforming traditional tailoring, staples from the men’s wardrobe are spliced or hacked up for new expressions. Maison Margiela’s term for cutting up a garment to its frame, the technique of décortiqué is applied to coats and knits. Rubber is moulded to imitate knitwear. Flocking simulates shadow play, while pigment print adds painted-over effects.

Palette

Drawing on the traditional men’s and military wardrobes, black, navy, charcoal and melange grey set the tone for the collection. The muted colours are interrupted by Klein blue, red, bright yellow and orange, hinting at the palette of sportswear. The presence of white cements the Maison Margiela signature.

Accessories

Rooted in heirloom jewellery, rhinestone chokers and military buttons worn as brooches correspond with the memory of medals, cast from rubber moulds. Bracelets and belts are graphically coloured in leather, foiled leather and transparent PVC. Chains appear as belt and necklaces, while one necklace carries a cravat as medal. The collection introduces the SMS, the Security Margiela Sneaker: a steel- toe-capped trainer with a vibram sole, in white, black, red, yellow and blue. The puffa slipper is constructed in waterproof cordura nylon with a crêpe gum sole, while décortiqué cowboy boots and the Tabi – flat or with a six-centimetre heel – underline house codes.

 

FW 2018-19 Maison Margiela Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Maison Margiela
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Tue, February 13 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MAISON MARGIELA SPRING SUMMER 2017 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maison Margiela Fashion Show SS 2017 Paris
Maison Margiela Fashion Show SS 2017

 

A pyramid of ideas informs the Défilé collection in a stream of consciousness from the Artisanal universe, as Maison Margiela explores a curious alignment of elegance and modernity. Spring Summer 2017 settles upon the merging vocabularies of archetypal, sports, and historical references: extracting the spectacular from the mundane for a triumphant reinvention of heritage.

A pivotal collection emerges through the house vocabulary defined by Creative Director John Galliano, with a dynamic sense of unconscious glamour. A cross-pollination of codes draws the eye to focus in desire and delight.

“The mission of Maison Margiela is to reject convention, and our evolving proposition stimulates nostalgia and innovation in equal parts. We believe that familiarity must be unsettled and spontaneous, with an intrinsic strangeness.” – Maison Margiela

MATERIALS
It is only through an encyclopaedic knowledge of textiles that their innate properties may be subverted into new forms. Applied as such, sports mesh is ruched into flouncing blouse shoulders, or ripstop nylon embroidered as ribbons on fluorescent lace. Industrial vulcanized cotton finds new softness as a trench coat in palest celadon green, whilst bouclé mohair and wetsuit neoprene are fused with crochet. Tattersall checked cotton, striped poplin, classic gabardine and wool gauze are interrupted by the omnipresent metaphor of the lining in tessel- lated bird print nylon.

TECHNIQUE
Everyday garments take on new lives when their archetypal structures are questioned and transformed by new compositions and finishes. Here the ‘anonymity’ of the lining emerges anew: the collar of a suspended trench dress falls as a new empire line, cabans are dissected down the lapel to expose wading, and a sports mesh smock sweeps into a Watteau-back. The toggled elastic, safety buckles, and drawstrings of a hiker’s backpack cinch the body in technical tops and dresses for a play of ruched volume. Moments of graphic embellishment arrive as fractured mirror effect embroidery, braided rubber balloon trims, ‘propaganda’ screen-prints, and po- etic cotton needlepoint on silk or velvet.

PALETTE
Both upending and conforming to the colour signifiers of a traditional garment, the colour card defies expecta- tion. Within a single garment, traditional grey men’s wear checks, taupe outerwear, and hi-vis sports hues are paired with eccentric touches of neon-tone knitwear, jewel-toned metallic leather or sheer organza, and bright raincoat yellow cotton.

ACCESSORIES
The signature 5AC bag returns in a multitude of original treatments and finishes, from nylon and leather quilting to braided saddlery details, and silver mirror leather burnished with a neon edge. A new saddle bag rethinks the leather satchel in unique oval proportions, featuring a multi-functional strap system that is worn as a handbag, shoulder bag, and backpack. Mykita x Maison Margiela sunglasses are embedded with chandelier crystals, a technique replicated in transparent arm cuffs, collars, and wire halo earrings. The scuba tabi boot features a moulded rubber sole, and an ornate jacquard upper strapped in Velcro.

 

SS 2017 Maison Margiela Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Maison Margiela
SS 2017 Fashion Show Maison Margiela
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Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MAISON MARGIELA FALL WINTER 2015-16 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Fall Fashion Woman Maison Margiela Collection 2015
Fall Fashion Woman Maison Margiela Collection

 

In evoking a calculated imperfection, the individual emerges.

Maison Margiela proposes a new alignment and the evolving fil rouge of the ‘Artisanal’ collection. Whispered to life, garments question ideas of conformity, and the élan of the individual rises to the fore.

Innocence is celebrated, articulating a new standard of beauty. An ephemeral muse returns, her power reactionary and sensitive. Personalities shine in characters mingled through a sepia lens.

Transformation is vital; spontaneous, cathartic gestures meet studied craft for an attenuated silhouette and its immediate release. The twin lives of a garment are the key to its nonchalance, just as day fades into night.

Such musings disregard the dated concerns of what to wear, and when. Tailoring and flou find new proportions, both charming and askew.

Just as fabrics are imbued with memory and emotion, their allure serves new context across the articulated body. At times, they reference themselves; elsewhere they allude to a deeper metafiction.

Decoration follows suit: naive flowers and feathers subvert the bourgeoisie through a muted joie-de-vivre. At once diffused and saturated, their colours allude to a warm sense, a fashion lo-fi: like polaroids inflected with acid dreams.

 

Winter 2015 Fashion Show Maison Margiela Collection
Winter Trends 2015 Maison Margiela Collection
Fall Winter 2015 16 Fashion Collection Maison Margiela
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Tue, June 23 2015 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

MAISON MARGIELA FALL WINTER 2015-16 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Fall Fashion Man Maison Margiela Collection 2015

Maison Margiela © Copyright 2015

Style takes shape at the end of the night. The look is mixed, improvised, lost in a timeless dissonance. A nostalgic energy seeking an as yet undiscovered elegance. Excessive and minimal, electric and calm.

The garment is altered: linings come outwards, stitching and collars remain unfinished, chaotic proportions blend with unrelated colours, mutating jewellery. Fabrics and shapes melt against 1970’s backgrounds. The feel is eerie, nostalgic, contemporary.

Classic notions of elegance, when pushed to their limits change, become an oddity, where spontaneity transforms trial and error into final chapters.

Within this cacophony, individual pieces emerge from what was once whole. Disconnected, disorderly, inspired. Democratic.

 

Fall Fashion Man Maison Margiela Collection
Winter 2015 Fashion Show Maison Margiela Collection
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Wed, February 18 2015 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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