N°21 SPRING SUMMER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

“NUDA”

Countercurrent/Countercontemporary. Rather than direct referencing, a keen reappropriation. No revision or reworking, by contrast an explicit return to authenticity. «I wanted to go back to my own fashion codes, the ones that established my style and that I’ve now imbued N°21 with through a conscious pursuit of authenticity. So that the style message is clear, recognizable, definite, strong. I like to personalize my work, present my own viewpoint on fashion as a way to take responsibility, because I think the brand should narrate my vision, namely the vision of its author,» says Alessandro Dell’Acqua, creative director of N°21.

Irriverent. Assertion of an authoritative message, one with a distinct personality, on the concept of femininity. The color blush pink — inflected in 21 shades of flesh tone — imprints the character of the collection. «Son qui radiografata, son nuda anche vestita (I am here x-rayed, nude even with my clothes on)»: Nuda, Mina’s 1976 song written by Don Backy, soundtrack for this show, becomes the manifesto that tells the story of clothes in all shades of blush pink and that affirms a woman’s right to have her person and her body respected, no matter how many centimeters of skin are covered or not covered. Embroideries, overlays, plisse skirts with plume inserts, sheer tulle on dresses and parkas, little mohair sweaters with sequins and feathers. Lingerie ribbon distinctly marking seams, the rims of shoes with satin lining and contrast high heel. Lightweight knit bras and culottes appearing under voile dresses. Sequin- or crystal-studded petticoats peeking out from under dresses in nylon or duchesse fabric. Leopard print coats presenting lovely sheer tulle overlays.

Now New. The masculine/feminine mix, another one of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s fashion codes, infiltrates the N°21 collection through mannish check fabrics in the form of skirts, short pants, bomber jackets. And, quite surprisingly, through full skirts in tech brocades. In a statement by a woman with a multiple personality: «Io v’innamorerò parlandovi di me (I will make you fall in love talking to you about me)», Nuda, Mina.

Eye Candy. Eyewear expressing optimism. Ultra clear colored lenses on frames in blush pink or some other pastel tone. All to highlight an alluring look, a sophisticated step-up in glam through objects and accessories that become iconic if interpreted within the context of a conscious style.

Inspirational. Introduction of the Alice Bag, a long-strap handbag to sport on the shoulder too. In addition to the normal size, there are mini and tote versions. Complete with crystal edging. It joins the Bow Bag, where the brand’s signature bow makes for the smartest of features.

Aspirational. The spring-summer 2018 N°21 collection by Alessandro Dell’Acqua depicts fashion for a woman firmly set on asserting her own aspirations. «Con la mia testa io vi conquisterò (I will win you over with my mind),» as Mina says in the show’s soundtrack. Meanwhile affirming the right to determine the moment of seduction: «E per chi vuol vedere le gambe e il mio sedere, vestiti trasparenti li accontenterò (And for those who want to see my legs and rear, see-through clothes, I will accommodate them)».

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Tags: N°21, N°21 SS 2018, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2018

Fri, November 10 2017 » Fashion Blog

N°21 SPRING SUMMER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

It’s a vacation story, about freedom, relaxation and optimism, free will too. About touches of eccentricity – as opposed to the pursuit of a clean style – as if it was the way to shift attention, to transfer symbolism and details. The N°21 Spring/Summer 2018 men’s collection expresses an authentic aspiration for levity and the sense of liberation that comes with.

«I designed a collection where freedom prevails over construction and lightness describes a wish for escape – not the type that’s synonymous with flight from present reality, for in his detachment from normal life the man I have in mind expresses the will we all have to rise above day-to-day goings-on in a world that seems to make everything very difficult, very arduous,» says Alessandro Dell’Acqua, creative director of N°21.

This form of escape can, for instance, emerge in the placed print on a white shirt depicting a surfer in action; or in a print illustrating other beach games on an otherwise plain yellow vinyl trench coat, inspired by a young Matt Dillon photographed by Bruce Weber in the late ‘80s/early ‘90s. Images where the sense of lightness becomes complementary to a lifestyle that’s relaxed yet not indifferent, aware but not concerned.

Just as the vinyl detailing on jackets talks about style, the jacquard textures of knits are a nod to the responsibility of a train of thought that’s never superficial. Similarly, contrast piping offsets the classic cut of pants, so attaining a pajama-like softness, while ramage design prints add richness. Then there are coats and jackets in mixes of check fabrics that work closely with the blue suits in cool wool.

«Blue is very important in a man’s wardrobe since it mixes easily with any other color. I use it a lot because I love it: for me, it holds both the idea of freshness and the idea of freedom,» says Alessandro Dell’Acqua. Desirable characteristics that also represent the guidelines of this summer collection all about the beneficial effects of the relaxed feeling of optimism.

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