We put the frenzy in Firenze. To mark Jeremy Scott’s first contact with Pitti – the crucial crucible of must-wear menswear – Moschino presents a high-speed collision of past and future. Point of impact? Now.
Think Valentino Rossi meets Fred Astaire. Imagine Staying Alive spliced with 2001: A Space Odyssey. There’s a sniff of Jimi Hendrix, a dash of Prince, a soupçon of Louis XVI – and a whole lot of Scott.
Points of commonality? A dedication to display – seriously playful peacocking – that’s only heightened by the elegance of Scott’s refusal to acknowledge the pigeonhole-categories of codified menswear. Smart vs informal? Just not normal.
So, display. Think of the stylised sponsors’ badges of honour that are worn, skin-tight, by the petrol-head warriors of Moto GP. Crash that image into the tailcoated insouciance of old-school eveningwear.
Then take it back, pre-industrial, to unabashedly decadent ruffle and kerfuffle of 18th century masculine power dressing. Factor in brocade, candy-stripe, and cartoonery. Then lay it over right-this-minute streetwear silhouettes.
In 2016 there is nothing to stop you wearing whatever the hell you want – except its availability. This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athleisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.
Andrea Incontri © Copyright 2015
A like Asia, because the Andrea Incontri collection focuses its gaze on this centuries-old crossroads of diverse peoples and cultures. Places, arts and styles rooted in an ancient past yet constantly evolving, with their eye on the future.
A like accessories. The main framework of the collection. Bags and footwear form this season’s nucleus around which the ready-to-wear clothes take shape and come to life.
A like archetypes, because accessories point the way to a return to the origins: here classic models are reinterpreted with an even more contemporary twist.
Bags are multiple, just as their uses are multiple. From shoulder bags to flat, geometric envelopes and backpacks to clutches, these accessories are the essential solution to the requirements of everyday life: versatility, lightness, practicality.
Strictly black natural or grained buffalo skin forms the outer shell of a “surprise” container whose unlined, ultra-light interior conceals little pockets and tiny, extractable bags.
Like the bags, footwear embodies the essence of this collection. Here a meticulous attention to detail, a juxtaposition of different materials, a mixture of styles and variety of shapes – sneakers, derbies, low and regular boots – are parts of a broader, global vision with the accent on quality workmanship and fine Italian manufacturing.
Materials and manufacturing are exclusively Italian, from waxing and brushing horse skin to hand-sewing leather bottom stocks and applying studs to the original pointed loafers that pay homage to the traditional Norwegian shoe.
International, Informal, Infinitelypractical. These adjectives describe the ready-to-wear and the new style permeating the clothes for autumn/winter 2016.
Starting with outerwear. Basic, simple, timeless, easy to wear. And although classic/universal styles inspired the models, the result is ultra contemporary and innovative.
The bomber is made of a double fabric of technical nylon and loden woollen cloth, with an ultra-light eco-down lining, the same used for the denim jackets. The parka can be made entirely of nylon or of total-black nappa. The fulled-wool jacket has leather details, as does the multicolour jacquard carpet jacket evocative of upholstery fabric.
Leather inlays are also seen on the field jacket with eight pockets: pockets everywhere, big ones, small ones and a side one for an iPod.
The shirt recurs throughout the collection: white cotton, printed or tie-and-dye, or a polo version made of technical textile with a knitted-fabric collar. For women, the shirt drops to ankle length, turning into a dress showered with tiny roses that are embroidered or jacquard or printed on a technical base. Roses also appear on the women’s parka and on the light tulle tops.
Materials: traditional textures like knitted cotton, wool worked in various ways, denim and leather are mixed and matched with nylon and technical fibres.
Colours: black dominates a palette that includes cool shades of blue and grey and the warmer, earthy tones of military green, aubergine and russet, plus rather more delicate notes of beige and sand.
Music is an integral part of the show, a veritable show-in-a-show. I’m Not a Blonde, the Milanese duo of multi-instrumentalists and composers Chiara “Oakland” Castello and Camilla Matley, play electro-pop music with varied influences.
Their live performance starts with a destructuring of tracks, featuring a hypnotic repetition of the phrase AI LOVE YOU, to proceed, in the second part, with improvisation and the original versions of Todis and Peter Parker (https://imnotablonde.bandcamp.com/releases).
TAILORING MEETS SPORTSWEAR
Z ZEGNA SS2015
Bold, energetic and decisively tech-driven, the essence of the new Z ZEGNA collection is dedicated to an urban trendsetter with an active work-into-week-end lifestyle.
The Spring/Summer 2015 season marks a new chapter for the brand whose new tailoring-meets sportswear identity blends the elegance and cutting-edge attitude of ZZegna with the techno-urban leisurewear expertise of Zegna Sport.
An imprimatur forged by five key elements that are the common thread between the two former brands – Deformalization, Sportification, Hybridization, Urbanization and Innovation. Signature traits underscored by the exclusive pentagon mesh graphic that becomes a characterizing motif for the new Z ZEGNA.
The new collection targets a global metropolitan, multi-tasking urban commuter who juggles his 24/7 schedule with ease and attitude. The “tailoring meets sportswear” direction builds on a wardrobe of suits, shirts, outerwear that effortlessly meld practicality with elegance.
Softly-tailored silhouettes of seasonless appeal are fashioned from lightweight fabrics, including high performance wools, technical cottons and advanced sportswear in “Techflex” featuring laser cut, zero seams, heat-sealed constructions.
The color palette is hinged on two shades of gray, cement and carbon, injected with jade green, citrus yellow, royal blue and monochromatic black and white.
The Techmerino project extends its evolution into sartorial pieces. Shapes are tailored but never constricting, elevated by technically-inspired details that gain a refined and cosmopolitan vibe, becoming iconic Z ZEGNA brand staples and appearing on tailored suits and blazers, knits, as well as ergonomic T-shirts and exclusive technical outerwear.
The 100% pure superfine Techmerino wool is designed to be worn in direct contact with the skin to maximize the natural thermal and hydroscopic properties.
To complete the new brand’s identity Z ZEGNA presents an extensive collection of sneakers. For men of bolder fashion wit, the multi-colored Z ZEGNA Techmerino Racer is the season’s key ingredient.
Available in spectrum of colors and materials including luxurious nappas and suedes, technical meshes and printed sting ray leather, this new iconic shoe features an innovative Techmerino lining.
A perfect combo between a classic shape and a running shoe, it adds the final touch to a new paradigm in style.