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ROCHAS SPRING SUMMER 2017 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Rochas Fashion Show SS 2017 Paris
Rochas Fashion Show SS 2017

 

Colour and precision. As in the work of two giants of photography: the primary colours of Erwin Blumenfeld’s covers for Vogue America in the ’40s and ’50s, and the iconic statue-like precision of Cecil Beaton’s black and white shots.

Rochas’ new summer collection juxtaposes and overlaps dense blocks of contrasting light. Yellow, sky blue, mandarin, lilac and green. Decoration disappears and the spotlight is on construction. Pleats, drapery, flounces. The glorious tailoring of the forties is back in the lines, volumes and silhouettes of every creation. And underskirts add substance to the dream, without ever indulging in nostalgia.

Fabrics are sumptuous: devoré velvet and floral jacquards, masterpieces of hand weaving that transforms spring into brocade and adds opulence. In dresses, shirts and above all reversible coats: creations that do away with the boundaries between daywear and eveningwear, in a triumph of flowers.

Black and white tulle, lace and plumeti bring lingerie to mind, while the colour palette veers from bright colours to the quieter powdery hues of the most refined, ethereal part of the collection.

Hem lengths all touch below the knee. Allure joins the couture spirit of the tradition and petites mains of maison Rochas with a more modern attitude, as if a contemporary Teddy Girl were to put on a formal gown, a family heirloom, and wear it in a casual, unprejudiced way.

As is always the case with Rochas, accessories provide the punctuation in a statement about who you are. Platform sandals with wooden soles and sling- back straps are lit up with colourful ribbons, or adorned with fabrics from the collection (jacquard and dévoré) like memories, echoes of dancehall wallpaper.

 

SS 2017 Rochas Fashion Show
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Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ROCHAS FALL WINTER 2015-16 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Fall Fashion Woman Rochas Collection 2015
Fall Fashion Woman Rochas Collection

 

Dreamy. Weightless. The Rochas Autumn/Winter 2015 collection is saturated with soft severity.

The heroine is fully in control, although she has a tendency to give in to the temptation of fleeting thrills and is always ready to indulge in the pleasure of eccentricity.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua opts for an assertively dark expression where sensuously precise cuts reveal the exquisite splendor of materials.

With very slightly emphasized shoulders and a nipped-in waist, the soft, vertical shapes slightly flare at the bottom and end at the calf. Warrior-style coats top crewneck dresses.

Military uniform-style shirts reveal a bourgeois, feminine spirit, fastened with little bows in the same wool from which the skirts are cut.

Dresses are held up by straps and sculpted with flounces along the cleavage in tribute to a classic shape by Marcel Rochas for the 90th anniversary of the brand.

Another excerpt from the archives, the pattern of a swallow in flight, is reinvented in the form of thick embroidery along belts, tops and little bomber jackets, and appears as a print on plain dresses.

A diversity of materials creates contrast to enhance the streamlined purity of the pieces: cashmere meets satin on dresses and skirts while various types of embroidery and jacquard embellish tops and coats.

Feather-light tulle is layered with tweed or paired with cashmere in brassieres of a nostalgic sensuousness while fur pockets are affixed to wraparound coats.

Full-bodied materials appear surprisingly weightless: double-faced cashmere, boiled cashmere, duchesse satin and silk jacquard reveal their buoyancy.

The natural color scheme reserves a few departures: shades of army green, ebony, black and bordeaux are peppered with yolk yellow and sky blue.

Accessories underline the collection’s starkness with an uninhibited eccentricity, such as pumps with a finely embroidered ankle strap, heels in fur, or oversized sunglasses with lingerie elastic.

 

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Thu, June 18 2015 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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