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VALENTINO SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Valentino © Copyright 2014

Freedom of expression as a result of a natural inclination to undermine the rules, simply by ignoring them, even though knowing them to perfection.

In defining the ever evolving form of the Valentino man, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli look at this season inspired by outsiders and freethinkers; individuals who stand outside movements, groups and schools; artists for whom innovation is an authentic, spontaneous gesture rather than a pose.

They elicit an effortless masculinity, but also a subtle taste for silent sedition, and synthesise them into a poetry of renewed softness, yet another piece in an overall design style wherein fashion is conceived fluidly as a tool for sculpting the identity of the individual, and Couture comes in from another direction to support and define the quest for uniqueness.

There reigns a sense of controlled relaxation, moved by the energy of mixing the whole. The silhouette is precise, with soft, loose volumes.

Long polo shirts are worn under nonchalant suits in accumulations of prints sometimes geometric, sometimes fantastic: psychedelic stripes, bestiaries, landscapes, flowers, continents.

The idea of the uniform, with its ancestry at once military and utilitarian, suggests the craftsman, interpreted and translated in the choice of tactile materials.

The savoir-faire of a masculinised Haute Couture insinuates itself everywhere, generating shifts and transformations: Camubutterfly brocades swarm on field jackets and army-inspired garments; light coats are double knit and trimmed in leather; even the white shirts are made from impalpably fine wool, in a constant search for weightless solidity.

The layering of iconic, authentic garments combines formal and sporty, in the awareness that millimetric interventions can upset the overall balance, leading to genuine progress.

Existing schemes are shattered forever, yet without shouting, mixing prints, wearing shorts with a suit, using a windbreaker as a jacket.

Naturalness pervades the choice of materials: raw silk shantung, viscose blends, brocades, chambray, cashmere and silk, barathea with a masculine feel. The colours are organic: stone, ruby, mint, sky blue, sand.

Sneakers in viscose jacquard with hi-tech soles, lace-ups with thick soles, soft brocade bags and enamelled pins signal the expression of free thought: “Reality, with a dash of magic”.

 

Summer Valentino Trends 2015 Man
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Spring 2015 Man Fashion Show Valentino
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Sun, September 14 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

FENDI SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Fendi Man Milan Fashion Week

 

Escapism: constant movement, urban dwelling, or simply travelling without moving, listening to one’s own soundtrack on the earphones. An easy, breezy attitude pervades the new FENDI Collection.

Summer – a healthy, positive state of mind – infiltrates the concrete jungle, permanently, morphing the wardrobe of the contemporary man along the way.

Velocity is the essential quality. It means smartness, absence of clutter, concentration: pieces that are reduced to their archetypal essence in order to respond to a function.

The fundamentals are all included: the zip-up blouson; the mac; tailored suits, lean trousers and immaculate shirts; the jean jacket; bermuda shorts.

Seen through the FENDI lens, they turn into statement pieces, expressing a new quest for twisted normality: you have to get really close and touch in order to discover a pervasive taste for innovation and experimentation.

What looks like sandblasted denim is leather printed through an innovative technology that has been bonded to get a rubbery feel. Pixels swarming on a bomber are a mosaic of the smallest guanteria leather squares, or an intricate basket weave.

Tuft of fur add a tactile element. Jacquard fabrics have an utilitarian appeal. Even linings are taken away, in order to create faster shapes that are as surprising in the detailed inside as they are on the outside.

Flashes of primary color brighten up suddenly: on rhythmical stripes; hidden in the weave of sturdy cottons; on charms hanging from the bags.

Otherwise the palette is essentially summery: khaki, cream, white tones of pale blue, jeans and blue, light grays. Materials marry FENDI’s very own sense of luxury with a certain pragmatism: Cuoio Romano leather, bonded leather, crocodile, jacquard cottons, cotton/linen mixes.

Escapism is finally condensed in the accessories: Selleria backpacks with crocodile tails as talismans, the male Peekaboo covered in tribal signs, sandals and slides. Barefoot with a suit as the ultimate sign of writing your own rule-book.

Created in precious Selleria or croco leather, in amazing colour palette, earphones developed in collaboration with Beats by Dr. Dre provide the soundtrack.

 

Summer Fendi Trends 2015 Man
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Sun, September 14 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Vivienne Westwood Man Milan Fashion Week

 

For this collection we began with images of childhood seaside holidays on the British coastline. We started to look at the similarities between the pixelated graphics of late 70’s arcade games played on the pleasure pier and Native American art.

The pixelated patterns and acid colours reminded us of something tribal, a little Native American, so this gave us another avenue to explore.

We combined pixel block tartan prints and jacquards, crystalised tartans and needle punch techniques, linear prints and dancette lines in knits and fil coupe shirting. There are star tooth prints and weaves, embellishment and beading, raw edges and fringing.

Some archive bondage pieces found their way into the collection, reminding us of certain details applied in Native American tribal wear and also a nod to the first appearance of this trouser during the 70’s.

For this show we are supporting the Pig Pledge which is a campaign to encourage people not to buy or eat factory farmed meat.

Vivienne & I are both vegetarians but we are urging people who do eat meat to always find out where it is coming from and to avoid meat from animal factories.

 

Summer Vivienne Westwood Trends 2015 Man
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Sat, September 13 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

DIESEL BLACK GOLD SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Diesel Black Gold © Copyright 2014

Iconic menswear references are mixed to create a new context; a direct approach to dressing for Diesel Black Gold’s spring-summer 2015 collection.

The idiosyncratic look melds Diesel Black Gold’s core vocabulary. Tailoring is layered with sporty tracksuits, denim and corduroy, military jackets inspired by an officer’s uniform and motorcross style leather jackets. A street sensibility is created by familiar dress codes.

Coats and jackets come tailored in cool wool, a velvet tuxedo style or micro corduroy fabrications. An indigo denim jacket is bonded with leather. Tops are paired with relaxed fit tracksuit pants. Zipped sporty track tops with stripes are layered under narrow shouldered jackets or trench coats.

Motorcross style graphics are applied onto leather jackets in tonal white on white or multicolor, while other biker jackets feature graffiti style lettering. Military officer uniforms and their ornamental details inform cotton twill jackets, embellished with red piping, epaulets and metal buttons in the collection’s palette of navy, khaki and black.

Five pocket denim jeans are given a broken-in wash to their dark indigo, white and black tones. Corduroy pants in black, navy, khaki and white. Cold dyed to mélange effect, knits and T-shirts have a tactile, lived-in appearance and feel.

Cropped biker boots with buckles that zip at the heel, and other boots crafted from khaki suede have a worn-in finish. The sneaker is constructed with leather and suede and worn as a contrast to tailoring.

 

Diesel Black Gold Man Milan Fashion Week
Summer Diesel Black Gold Trends 2015 Man
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Sat, September 13 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

N°21 SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

N°21 Man Milan Fashion Week
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Sat, September 13 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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