Travels in Italy. The search for roots that tell a modern-day story without nostalgia. For Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2015, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are inspired by the 18th century tradition of the Grand Tour, an educational trip taken by cultured young Europeans to explore the art, philosophy and traditions of Italy.
Retracing the different stages of the journey, the heart of which lies in Rome and in its vestiges of classicism, they come to understand its profound raison d’être: travel as a storyline and instrument of knowledge, a way to observe reality with a keen eye and recount it with a free mind.
This collection is filled with a continuous sense of wonder. It traces a path amidst iconic images and memories, wisdom and knowledge, while maintaining a light, airy note.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli layer universal fragments – views and souvenirs, scarf prints and baroque blooms, classic ruins and seascapes, virginal purity and the sense of superb artisan craftsmanship – and use them to compose an impalpable and personal language that describes the figure of a fragile yet strongly present woman.
The silhouette is a vertical line that vibrates, barely revealing the sensuality of the body. Dresses with dazzling prints, motifs, and patterns come in archetypical shapes: tunics, simple yet romantic long high-waisted dresses, and short pinafore dresses with low-cut backs that are seductive but protect against indiscreet gazes.
Double linen coats are worn with pragmatic naturalness over blouses and flowing trousers. Lace and eyelet lace have the precious purity of a bridal trousseau. Travel as an accumulation of notes and memories suggests the spontaneous gesture of closing a bag with a scarf or tying amulets and souvenirs to sandal laces so that they will not get lost.
Colors are combined like memories, some faded and others vivid: white, light pastels, linden green, baby blue, and vibrant notes of indigo blue, cinnamon, military green, and black. Fabrics and materials are classic: wool, linen double, silk, crepe, and leather.
Accessories affirm the itinerant spirit of the collection: flat sandals for traveling and light high-heeled footwear. There are simple shoulder bags with a clean design and metal grommets, one-handle bags, and constructed shoulder bags in patchwork leather printed with scarf-like motifs. Small marine-themed jewelry worn in the hair or on the fingers recreates fantastic itineraries.
Travel is a magical tale: outdoor views and landscapes rewrite inner worlds and vice versa.
Tue, October 14 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Hermès © Copyright 2014
Hermès Spring Summer 2015 Women’s Collection
Out of the shadows, into the light.
An African breeze, intense overtones of earth and indigo.
Solar whites and radiant ochre.
Airiness and lightness, asymmetry, fabric folds, playful pleats.
Fresh, ethereal material or matt and structured texture.
Coat in silk and braided leather.
«Bubble» dresses in silk and cotton, shift-dresses in light seersucker, dresses in overdyed métis with Quadrige print, draped dress in striped silk, dress in broderie anglaise and ladder openwork, maxi-dress in pointillist embroidery.
«Bubble» shirts in cotton poplin and métis, shirt-dresses in cotton batiste.
Jacket in off-white linen and cotton denim, jacket in water snake skin, blouson in python.
Summer rain: parka in parachute silk and water-resistant calfskin with waterproof zip, zipped blouson in parachute silk.
Cardigan in water snake skin and crocodile marquetry on silk knit.
Asymmetrical skirts with flat pleats in cotton poplin, wrap-around skirt in barénia, skirts in cotton and silk madras.
Wide pants with pleats, short pants, bermuda shorts in chiffon crocodile
Hip scarves in métis.
Talcum powder, chalk, plaster, lime.
Ivory, off-white, putty, misty white, pearly grey.
Shades of indigo navy, storm, midnight blue, Etruscan blue, earthenware blue.
Purple, gingerbread, saffron, ochre, brown beige, pink granite rose, chestnut.
Full grain lambskin, water snake skin, crocodile, métis, métis with overdyed print.
Double-face summer cashmere.
Silk poplin, cotton poplin, cotton batiste, linen and cotton denim,
Washed crepe de chine.
Quadrige (drawing by Pierre Péron, 1973) in overdyed métis.
Les coupés (drawing by Françoise de la Perrière, 1970).
Wax “Panama masks”, wax “rouge Chili”.
Sandals with straps and heel, gladiator sandals, loafers.
Sat, October 11 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
For Spring 2015 Sacaiʼs Chitose Abe riffs on a theme of uniform, inverting and subverting the familiar. Working with authentic silhouettes, cutting and splicing them into unexpected juxtapositions, with technical fabric innovations that allude to a couture-like world, staying true to the handwriting thatʼs been at the heart of Sacai since the beginning.
A military jacket is ʻinsertedʼ into the soft femininity of a tulle blouse, playing with the construction to create a new structured silhouette. A utilitarian khaki skirt bursts into a fan of chiffon pleats. The stripe insignia on a sleeve is reinvented in grosgrain ribbon. Navy chiffon inserts reveal lingerie detail underpinnings. A flight jacket is reinterpreted with a uniform button detailing.
Structured guipure lace is inserted into uniform silhouettes to form new three dimensional shapes, bringing a modern elegance to the idea of surplus. A classic blackwatch check is overlaid with stitching to create a new iteration of lace. Cotton drill is laser cut and over printed for a futuristic take on broderie anglaise.
Lacing inspired by utility dressing weaves itʼs way throughout, most prominent on pumped up open front surplus boots. Ambush x Sacai jewellery combines the high shine gold against coloured enamel.
Sat, October 11 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Acne Studios © Copyright 2014
“I find youth’s relation to luxury striking and wanted to explore it. We brought what we discovered back to the Acne Studios universe and created an entire wardrobe for the social calendar – business, parties, travelling and leisure including swimwear. The colour palette is classic with acid accents. Fabrics include organza silk, satin, terrycloth and different treatments of leather.”
Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
Fri, October 10 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Études et Préludes
I was inspired this Spring season by a person I met, her name is Maria Kochetkova.
We met about 2 years ago, she first saw some of my clothes in a store in London, we met a couple of times through common friends in Paris and I have seen her perform in San Francisco where she is based.
This summer, we worked on a short film together, a video introduction to this collection.
Maria is one of the best Ballet dancer in the world, she trained at the Bolshoi in Moscow and danced for the London Royal Ballet.
She currently is part of the principal dancer at the San Francisco Ballet, she moves with amazing grace and she is an athlete. She is the inspiration for my collection.
Wed, October 8 2014 » Fashion Blog » No Comments