The mood of the pioneer, the wanderlust of the pagan traveller exploring the universe of Roberto Cavalli, is the inspiration for Creative Director Peter Dundas’ spring/summer 2017 Roberto Cavalli collection. A melange of inspirations and influences, times and places, she wears her world, combining different cultures in a mix that feels quintessentially now and uniquely Cavalli.
Patchwork is a key notion: the patchworking of fabric, but also of different eras and locales. The Americas are a key starting point, prints and fabrics of Navajo and Apache tribes alongside the embroidered tailoring of Nudie Cohn, an ode to Elvis and the rock-and-roll heartbeat that throbs under every Cavalli collection. They combine with kimonos, Egyptian textiles, Buffalo soldiers, Victorian pioneers, and jaguar prints from Africa. A whole Cavalli world.
The collection is a game of contrasts. Noble fabrics – fils coupé jacquards and velvets – combine with denim. The art of the mix is vital. Gossamer beaded gowns, louche and decadent, are laced together along the seams, another form of patchwork, lending emphasis to their exquisite embellishment.
Colours are vivid, with gold, solarised orange, sunbleached pastels and chambray denim blue. Ombré finishes lend a patina of age, of clothes that have already lived and travelled.
The voyager mood is underlined by accessories: for day, generous hunter bags, while embroidered Victorian purses are a delicate accent for evening. Jewellery is artisanal, referencing native American tribal jewellery combined with Victoriana. Platform-sole wooden clogs are inspired by traditional Scandinavian dress, made glamorous via luxurious fabrics and craftsmanship.
The line is long, sinuous, the signature serpentine Cavalli silhouette evoked through slender flares and goddess gowns, skin seductively revealed through transparent fabrics and corset lacing. Male models walk alongside female in their finery, wardrobes in synch via an urge to exploration and love of cultural clash – the new Cavalli traveller tribe.
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Tags: Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Tue, September 27 2016 » Fashion Blog
Active summer: The dynamic Versace life lived with absolute freedom. Our ultra-lightweight nylon has been worked to create a beautiful draping effect, making it billowy and luxurious. Tailoring in technical jersey sculpts the form, confirmed by a harness belt.
Drawstring pulls control the volume of nylon sleeveless dresses, creating ruching that sinuously contours the form. Bonded waterproofs are given Versace attitude: the mac is cropped, the skirt is mid-calf and fluid, with a trim of see-through plastic. A new print clashes checkerboards with fresh Versace lettering, while another new print is like the swirl of baroque waves on a powerful ocean.
Below the knee dresses are liberated by high slashes, pleats and wrapped panels, allowing ease and energy in movement. Strips of specially-created lace trim Versace essentials such as tanks, sweatshirts, shirts and skirts, the lace edges left free to ripple in the air. Versace crystal chain mail is embroidered to create a new mesh, its fluidity echoing in crepe wrap dresses held by a buckle with flowing straps.
Platform sandals have functional straps, while high heel platforms hold the foot with scuba. The new Stardust bag takes inspiration from the guitar strap, either used as a strap or as a fastening detail, the leather soft for a rock’n’roll attitude.
The soundtrack is a specially-written new track by Violet & Photonz, celebrating the strength of women, and the power of the female future.
“Sportswear is the future of fashion; to make it unique and luxurious is the challenge I took this season. This is a collection that is all about a woman’s freedom: freedom of movement, freedom of activity, freedom to fight for their ideas, freedom to be whomever you want to be.”
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017, VERSACE, VERSACE SS 2017
Mon, September 26 2016 » Fashion Blog
Sun, September 25 2016 » Fashion Blog
BEAUTY FIRST
Beauty, before all and above all. An undeniable beauty, always recognizable, never nostalgie. It is not only current, but also looks to the future.
The Ermanno Scervino Women’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection has a continuous push towards objective beauty, obtained through a meticulous attention to details in the construction of garments and choice of materials. The sartorial craftsmanship, contemporary and refined through a continuous process of experimentation, is at thè service of beauty.
Everything is new. The fashion house’s iconic trait of pleated lace is more modern, worked into a honeycomb with cutting-edge sartorial techniques. Vertical and horizontal lines are placed together to create new optical effects. Eco-leather jumpsuits and jackets trace the silhouette of tomorrow onto the body.
Suits, in total white or with an animal pattern printed on astrakhan embroidery, are embellished with jewelled fiorai decorations that outline an Art Nouveau style of thè future. Uniform-inspired outerwear is completely de-constructed, reinventing itself in a sensual key with taste. Rope becomes a chic accessory or embroidery.
For the evening wear, beauty is sublimated in dreams. Silk organza creates dresses with an impalpable lightness, in delicate shades or in bold black softened by embroidered flowers, leaving a dream-like trail in their wake.
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Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Sun, September 25 2016 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 24th September 2016 7 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Tags: LIVE STREAMING, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Sat, September 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Blumarine Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 24th September 2016 12.30 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Tags: BLUMARINE, BLUMARINE SS 2017, LIVE STREAMING, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Sat, September 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
Waves with infinite motion sheltered by thè sinuous outlines of mountains. During her long solitary walks to thè lake, Zhu Chongyun, thè visionary creative director and owner of Krizia, envisaged a delicate iconographic bridge between thè East and thè West, between thè ancient hi story ofthe Fashion House and its contemporary and global future. A romantic and sweet concept shaken by Constant interruptions, by discontinuity of style, unexpected colours, thè result of spending lots of time at thè historical archive of Via Womanin in Milan.
The iconic symbols return but without nostalgia or second thoughts. The past is blended into a current version of pure and direct lines that conceal surprises. A continuous, sophisticated reinterpretation of memories that acquire a contemporary vibe. A three-dimensional “haiku” And, even if everyone expects thè usuai tiger, this time it will be a new tiger. A different one.
The Krizia feline is back with a sharp style, printed, jacquard multicolour or lasered leather. It is concealed in fabrics with macro and micro flourishes, with fun camouflage effects. On blouse-sweaters, tank top dresses, laser cut leather and metal accessories, thè Symbol ofan era becomescolourful and pop. Fun and never dull.This isthe Krizia tiger.
And thè same applies to pleats, flounces and rouches, which become a petal on male jackets, a serrated biade on thè shoulder, an over-the-top handkerchief or a side fan tied with a ribbon. Precious details create a fusion between art and fashion, as in thè statuesque evening and cocktail dresses, embellished just like works of art. Waves are repeated and spread throughout thè collection, from thè shoulder strap of a shopping macro pochette in leather or fabric to fiat sabots.
The fabrics used are precious and innovative: wool threads with crisp silk, mohair with organza, stretch and pleats, thè result of cutting-edge technology and many special collaborations with ItaIian master craftsmen. Colours range from soft ice-cream and lake blue to light water blue and iridescent gold, connecting thè East and thè West.
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Tags: KRIZIA, KRIZIA SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Sat, September 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
Sat, September 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
“YOU’VE GOT TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST TO REACH THE VALLEY OF THE DOLLS”
JACQUELINE SUSANN
Way before Barbie there were paper dolls: 2D, hand-drawn mannequins delivered on the page with their own illustrated wardrobes. For his Spring Summer 2017 Moschino collection, Jeremy Scott finds inspiration in this original game of cut and paste for girls of taste.
Plus to muster that sweet, hard rush of insta-gratification for this season’s instantly-shoppable offering, Scott turns to another genre of ‘Dolls’ – as Jacqueline Susann termed them in her scandalous novel of 1966. It’s a capsule collection with a powerful dose of capsules.
Deploying trompe l’oeil detailing, angled illustrative flourish, and a first-look ’til last-look motif that echoes the white tabs of the original paper dolls, the collection is a Moschino-flavoured reverie on the ceremony of personal facade. It begins with a spaghetti strapped, slimly fitted shift dress that suddenly furls mid-calf to echo the foldable stand of the original paper dolls: its front is illustrated to make the wearer seem deshabille, in black bra and panties. She is the template, ready to be outfitted.
Early looks echo the joyous source code of the house’s creator: Franco Moschino’s signature black on red polka dot, his chains, that peace sign, those teddy bears. But those pearls are flattened panels, that bling is painted on, and those bears ain’t there. Whimsically subversive agit-chic. Dada-touched irreverence. A sly examination of stereotype that extends to the set: the gold chairs with red-velvet cushions, an intimate, half-raised, red-carpeted runway. A boldly old school reset.
What you see and what you get are never in sync. An apparently half shrugged-on trench coat, with a wickedly manicured hand just visible at its lapel, is nothing of the sort. What is ostensibly a capelet in pastel paint-by-numbers floral that seems to balloon below it certainly isn’t. Keep looking.
Scott takes a trip. Hoodies and sweats, quilted and chain-strewn leather minis, faux-kini bodies, Daisy Duke fishnet leggings, bikers and bombers, logo sportswear, washed denim: is this the real life, or just fantasy? The capsule of capsule strewn handbags, backpacks and dresses – plus a prescription pillbox clutch – hints at escape from reality.
The finale is a procession of augmented unreality eveningwear. Ruche and swoosh and swirl frozen in a 2D moment, yet 3D real. An interplay of true and skewed. From the front, a sugary hit of colour and flounce given hyper-real definition though illustrative steroid. From the back though, a blank. Paper dolls.
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Tags: MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Fri, September 23 2016 » Fashion Blog
Fri, September 23 2016 » Fashion Blog
