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BACKSTAGE TOPSHOP UNIQUE FW 2017-18 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK

Models Topshop Unique London Fashion Week London
Models Topshop Unique London Fashion week
Models Topshop Unique FW 2017-18
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Tue, April 11 2017 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

TOPSHOP UNIQUE FALL WINTER 2017-18 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK

Topshop Unique Fashion Show FW 2017 London
Topshop Unique Fashion Show FW 2017
FW 2017-18 Topshop Unique Woman Model
Woman Model Fashion Show Topshop Unique
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Wed, April 5 2017 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

GARETH PUGH FALL WINTER 2017-18 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK

Gareth Pugh Fashion Show FW 2017 London
Gareth Pugh Fashion Show FW 2017

 

If you share the opinion that fashion stands for more than a glitzy sideshow, that it can – and should – reflect our collective fears and fantasies, then it may come as no surprise that this evening’s Gareth Pugh show presents an austere vision of a world on the precipice of anarchy.

In the months preceding this event, as the designer began work on his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection, creative projects took him on something of a world tour, including stints in Moscow, Beijing, Istanbul and Washington DC (the latter trip purposefully timed to coincide with the US Election.) Conceived in an ambiguous, troubling time, this is a collection informed by the inescapable forces of the cultural landscape. Where the prevailing instinct is to build walls, reinstate borders and reclaim territory. Where the most powerful person in the world is a billionaire demagogue and self-confessed pussy grabber.

That such sensory overload might lead to a stately procession of stark, architectural silhouettes and garments almost exclusively rendered in paired-back and unfussy fabrics, speaks to a discipline of thought. To find such extreme chaos parlayed into a collection notable for its monolithic singularity– each garment expertly executed with muscular control – simply demonstrates the dexterity, strength and ferocity of vision that has defined Gareth Pugh’s label for well over a decade.

Cinematic in scope, this collection finds the designer taking many of his visual cues from that most sacred (and profane) form of image making. In an age of optics, Pugh channels iconic cinematic references as a form of universal shorthand. Drawing on Bob Fosse’s Cabaret, he describes how over these past months he came to be fixated with “the nature of the witness.”

“It’s about fight or flight. The cultural pendulum has swung to the right. The veil has been lifted. As a designer, how do you deal with that? It’s like that moment in Cabaret – “In here life is beautiful!” – as outside the world burns. Do you look it in the eye, or do you look away? That’s the critical question. It defines who you are.”

This collection carries in its bowels the distinct threat of radical extremism. One need only look at the way the designer handles another key reference, Liliana Cavalli’s 1974 film The Night Porter – less a camp classic, than a stone cold psycho-sexual nightmare – where by turning the dynamic of the film on its head, Pugh presents an imposing vision of lethal female resistance. A seething insurgency, collectively tearing at the dark underbelly of toxic masculinity.

One must also consider the soundtrack – an excoriating opus in its own right.Every sample, without exception, chosen by the designer. Each subject to relentless looping and lacerating jump cuts, in a model based on CIA sleep deprivation techniques. A method lifted from the world of “enhanced interrogation, ” it asks us difficult questions while offering no easy answers. Demanding that that we stay awake, in the hope that we might Stay Woke.

Staged in the round, characters move through the audience, wild and bug-eyed –implying wilful blindness, or fair protection against the floodlit obscenity at hand? – slipping through concrete apertures, frame to frame, as though unspooling in celluloid. A cast mostly made up of Pugh’s friends: activists, artists and outliers. Circling, gathering force, beneath the streets of London. As the pussy grabs back.

 

FW 2017-18 Gareth Pugh Man Model
Woman Model Fashion Show Gareth Pugh
Woman FW 2017-18 Fashion Show Gareth Pugh
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Tue, April 4 2017 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

PETER PILOTTO FALL WINTER 2017-18 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK

Peter Pilotto Fashion Show FW 2017 London
Peter Pilotto Fashion Show FW 2017

 

Wordly techniques are reinvented forming the texture of this collection. Peruvian ‘Nazca’ quilting, rug knitting, and autumn leaf embroideries are layered with scribbled velvet, crosshatch tweed, and metallic fil coupé. Allusions to highland exploration are streamlined through a hybrid sense of decorative utility.

The palette runs from black, pewter, olive to mountain blues, lucuma oranges, and oleander pinks. Statement sleeves, grosgrain trims, and touches of Mongolian goat hair highlight sculpted wool tailoring and short padded outerwear worn with patch pocket felt skirts or contrast zip flares.

Bias cut gowns of asymmetric foulard silks come embellished with brass cabochons and Swarovski totem patches, whilst fine knit dresses wrap in lace ombré, fringed passementerie and candy stripes. On foot, embroidered leather riding boots and velvet venetian slippers are crafted by Ludwig Reiter, Vienna (est. 1885).

For the Autumn Winter 2017 collection designed by Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, the runway space is populated by eclectic objects made by our friends. From paintings and sculpture to hard and soft furnishings, both new and antique. Sharing the same fascination for exploring collecting together.

 

FW 2017-18 Peter Pilotto Fashion Show Woman
Woman Model Fashion Show Peter Pilotto
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Wed, March 29 2017 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

CHRISTOPHER KANE FALL WINTER 2017-18 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK

Christopher Kane Fashion Show FW 2017 London
Christopher Kane Fashion Show FW 2017
FW 2017-18 Christopher Kane Fashion Show Woman
Woman Model Fashion Show Christopher Kane
Woman FW 2017-18 Fashion Show Christopher Kane
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Wed, March 29 2017 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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