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VALENTINO SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Valentino Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris
Valentino Fashion Show SS 2019

 

Fashion is authentic only when it speaks about life. Beauty is connected to time, elitism is destroyed. The street encounters Couture, in a clash. Breaking the schemes, converting the extraordinary into ordinary.

Exploring unknown territories, to let oneself go in order to learn. Musical horizons, antique analogies, feathers to indulge in. Angel’s wings and classic art, hurled on sidewalks. Bombers, trench coats, tracksuits, suits: trap lyrics in a live recording.

Baseball caps, cloche and feathered sneakers: pieces that break it up but that rhyme at the same. Urban sceneries merging with personal associations. To mark, to sign, to seize: in order to be and to be there.

VLTN, as a logo and as lettering, that multiplies across the different surfaces. Magnified, cut out and duplicated. Couture as in personal and extravagant, that comes from the street. A fuchsia beat, mint green, pink, black, white.

Pied de Poule and classic patterns interrupted by the bootlegging of overprinted logos. Beauty in time with time. Couture encounters streetwear, in the street. Truly. Now. #ValentinoMenSS19

 

SS 2019 Valentino Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Valentino
SS 2019 Fashion Show Valentino
Spring 2019 Menswear Valentino
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Wed, July 11 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ÈTUDES SPRING SUMMER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Études Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris

Études© Copyright 2018

New School

It is the role of the artist to celebrate the anachronisms of our human condition throughout history. The displaced, the out of place, and the commonplace. Sometimes, fashion ponders these possibilities too responding and reacting to the zeitgeist by celebrating the outlier, or the renegade.

New context arises when rebels replace the establishment. With this thinking in mind, the Études collection for Spring Summer 2019 evokes a conceit of soft masculinity, where the spirit of a West Coast vagabond traverses early Hip Hop’s forgotten glory. By appropriating a veritable melting pot of cultural symbolism, the collection considers the codes of uniform and their place in the postmodern wardrobe.

A clash of poncho-striped knits, bandana paisley, airbrush stripes and American camouflage is transposed onto voluminous shapes, their context twisted through silhouette. Urban and outback tropes intertwine as faux suede fringing and Cadillac flames lick across oversized jerseys or down rodeo jeans, and baseball shirts are elevated in satin jacquards. Roomy tailoring is cut in summer wools and jaffa stripe linen, as light logo denim and twill play pale sky shades against Études cobalt blue.

The LA-based painter Henry Taylor is the Études guest artist for the Spring Summer 2019 sea- son; his paintings “Resting” (2011) and “Man on Horseback in Naples, TX” (2015) are featured as an all-over photo print on silk shirting and jersey. In a further transcontinental exchange, Études resurrects Karl Kani’s multi-coloured baggy denim and signature sweatshirts, whilst a Starter varsity jacket merges the Études logo with the major league label’s iconic ‘S’ star.

 

Études Fashion Show SS 2019
SS 2019 Études Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Études
SS 2019 Fashion Show Études
Spring 2019 Menswear Études
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Wed, July 11 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

THOM BROWNE SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Thom Browne Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris
Thom Browne Fashion Show SS 2019

 

this and THAT.
the world as it is, and the WORLD AS TB SEES IT. toying with proportions.

this and THAT.
normal scale and ANOTHER SCALE. a jacket and a JACKET, a shirt and a SHIRT, chinos and CHINOS.

an anthology of true american preppy – a defining trait of the world through thom browne lenses – blown up to ridiculous proportions.

the seersuckers, gingham checks, oxford stripes, rugby stripes are magnified just as the light blues, sun yellows, kelly greens and pinks are saturated. shoes gain platforms, mini gets maxi. bowler hat and round glasses to seal it all.

this and THAT.
the ordinary and the couture: what’s screen printed turns into intarsia when exploded, stitches change into crystal embroidery, wools become mink. the blowing up is both literal and metaphorical, using sartorial finesse as a tool. altering proportions as a matter of virtuoso skill.

this and THAT.
always in comparison, so that the joke is apparent.

the process is reversible.
take off the glasses, and THAT is back to this.

this and THAT.

 

SS 2019 Thom Browne Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Thom Browne
SS 2019 Fashion Show Thom Browne
Spring 2019 Menswear Thom Browne
Summer 2019 Fashion Trends Thom Browne
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Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ACNE STUDIOS SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Acne Studios Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris
Acne Studios Fashion Show SS 2019

 

“I wanted to experiment with the definition of garments. What would happen if, when you described a pair of jeans, you were actually talking about a blouson? It was the beginning of a new set of archetypes, around which we built a wardrobe that plays with the idea of misinterpretation.” – Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.

A collection of purposeful misinterpretations, leading to a liberated mode of dressing. Key garments are cut and constructed as if they are something else. Natural fabrics appear artificial. Layering blurs perception. Jeans are cut as a blouson, with a long fly as fastening, authentic pocket construction and belt loops at the waist.

A neon yellow suit is actually linen, the natural fibres making the intense dye luminescent. It’s the same for the neon-dyed wool trim on a rib knit vest. The functional details of an M-1965 field jacket are cut as a city coat; also misinterpreted as a coat is a polo shirt, with polo collar and ribbed cuff.

A neon yellow vest is knitted like a bathroom loofah. Sweaters appear to have the texture of body scrub towels. The tradition of tapestry is turned into a hyper-reality with a digital image of the Stockholm archipelago, cut roughly and used as panels on tops. White waxed cotton trousers have a layer of neon mesh beneath, which glows through from the inside.

Tech jackets are tailored as tuxedos in feather light nylon. Waists are defined by drawstrings, the collar tech satin. Tailored trousers also come in super light nylon. Loafers are like sponges; sneakers combine a sleek racer shape with a chunkier front. Bags are woven like blankets, using the fabrics of the collection.

The artist Dawn Bendick has created new sculptures for the show in dichroic glass that play with colour and light. The glow of the works provided an inspiration for the collection itself.

 

SS 2019 Acne Studios Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Acne Studios
SS 2019 Fashion Show Acne Studios
Spring 2019 Menswear Acne Studios
Summer 2019 Fashion Trends Acne Studios
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Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Alexander McQueen Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris
Alexander McQueen Fashion Show SS 2019

 

INSPIRATION

The spirit and emotion of the mid-Twentieth Century British artist. Francis Bacon. John Deakin. Soho. The artist vulnerable yet powerful. Hybrids: classic clothing taken apart at the seams, turned on its head. The maverick male in heritage McQueen.

Cut, pieced and patched trench coats, hunting jackets, pinstripes, knits, shirting and military clothing realised with the power and immediacy of a broad-brush stroke. Strength of character, individuality and creativity.

COLLECTION

Tailoring forms the backbone to this collection. The silhouette is precise. Jackets are fitted with a square shoulder and a narrow waist, empowering and empowered. Trompe l’oeil coats in pinstripe suiting are worn with gabardine trenches slashed to the elbow and lined with painters pink satin.

Bonded plongé leather rain coats in colbalt blue and painters pink are raw cut. Cigarette pants are cropped at the ankle. Shirts are worn with slashed cuffs. Traditional menswear is deconstructed, panelled with opposing garments and fabrics. Trench cotton is bonded with cavalry twill, wool silk coats layered over trompe l’oeil jackets. Plongé leather and organza layered cotton gabardine overalls are belted and undone to the waist.

Exploded paint palette jacquard knits with hanging threads are worn with leather motocross trousers, finished with nickel zips. Perfecto grainy leather jackets and biker trousers are hand-painted. Hybrid jackets in ivory wool silk and lust red are first slashed then pieced with black wool silk military coats.

Trousers are striped with lust red and optic white. Hand-painting and embroidery is abstract with bold embroidered brushstrokes. Cotton silk jacquards draw on the artist’s studio and the work of John Deakin, as do more embroideries, this time in muted silver gunmetal: “Graffiti”, “Graffiti Faces”, “You Are All Nice”.

 

SS 2019 Alexander McQueen Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Alexander McQueen
SS 2019 Fashion Show Alexander McQueen
Spring 2019 Menswear Alexander McQueen
Summer 2019 Fashion Trends Alexander McQueen
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Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

BACKSTAGE YOHJI YAMAMOTO SS 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Backstage Yohji Yamamoto Paris
Backstage Yohji Yamamoto
Model Backstage Yohji Yamamoto
Model Man 2019 Backstage Yohji Yamamoto
Model 2019 Backstage Yohji Yamamoto
Backstage Yohji Yamamoto Model Summer 2019
Backstage Yohji Yamamoto Models 2019 Details
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Mon, July 9 2018 » Fashion Blog » Comments Off

YOHJI YAMAMOTO SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Yohji Yamamoto Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris

Yohji Yamamoto© Copyright 2018

 

Yohji Yamamoto Fashion Show SS 2019
SS 2019 Yohji Yamamoto Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Yohji Yamamoto
SS 2019 Fashion Show Yohji Yamamoto
Spring 2019 Menswear Yohji Yamamoto
Summer 2019 Fashion Trends Yohji Yamamoto
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Mon, July 9 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Issey Miyake Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris
Issey Miyake Fashion Show SS 2019

 

Sun everywhere

The boundaries between work, leisure, privacy have become blurred. One can work everywhere, anywhere. A park, a cafe, a library or at home… A road to success shines ahead. Clothing borders, style codes also become more flexible and playful, wearing a shirt like a jacket.

Inspired by the desire for light and of “light-ness”, ISSEY MIYAKE MEN proposes a casual, yet refined shirt, expressing sun streaming and shadows on textured textiles. This variety of shirt reflects.

 

SS 2019 Issey Miyake Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Issey Miyake
SS 2019 Fashion Show Issey Miyake
Spring 2019 Menswear Issey Miyake
Summer 2019 Fashion Trends Issey Miyake
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Mon, July 9 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

BACKSTAGE LOUIS VUITTON SS 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Backstage Louis Vuitton Fashion Show 2018 Paris
Man Model 2019 Backstage Louis Vuitton
Model Man 2019 Backstage Louis Vuitton
Backstage Louis Vuitton Model Spring Summer 2019
Backstage Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2019
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Fri, July 6 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

LOUIS VUITTON SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Louis Vuitton Fashion Show SS 2019 Paris
Louis Vuitton Fashion Show SS 2019

 

The vocabulary according to Virgil Abloh
A liberal definition of terms and explanation of ideas.

# 3%. The exact ratio needed to twist a normative object into something special.

A Accessomorphosis. A portmanteau describing the transformation of an accessory into a garment, effectively evolving its functional form.

After party. A social gathering following a fashion show intended for industry guests but made great by the civilian fans of the brand in question.

B Bags. The ultimate expression of utility. For Spring-Summer 2019, bag designs are derived from the icons of Louis Vuitton and treated with Virgil Abloh’s 3% methodology.

Biography. Born in 1980, Virgil Abloh was raised in Rockford, Illinois. He earned a civil engineering degree from the University of Wisconsin in 2002 and an MA in architecture from the Illinois Institute of Technology in 2006. Abloh served as creative director for Kanye West until launching his first label, Pyrex Vision, in 2012. The year after, he established Off-White. Virgil Abloh joined Louis Vuitton as Men’s Artistic Director in March 2018.

C Collaboration. A creative partnership between people or brands in which Virgil Abloh has often engaged in the past. Likewise linked to the business of Louis Vuitton for over a century, the Spring-Summer 2019 collection features no collaboration.

Collar. A shirt or jacket component indispensable in the codes of formalwear – a sector native to Louis Vuitton and foreign to its designer – its tips are clipped as a mark-making gesture of irony. “Virgil Abloh was here.”

D Denim. A workingman’s fabric typically elevated in high fashion, this common material relies on its unrefined familiar appeal to trigger the desired emotional connection. Virgil Abloh was raised on 1990s’ washed-out Levi’s jeans, stiff and vintagefound.

Designer. “I don’t call myself a designer, nor do I call myself an imagemaker. I don’t reject the label of either. I am not trying to put myself on a pedestal, nor am I trying to be more, now. I would like to define the title of Artistic Director for a new and different era.” –Virgil Abloh.

Disc Jockey. “I like loud music.” –Virgil Abloh.

Dorothy. A farm girl from the Midwest transported to Oz, a fairy tale land where she experiences things beyond the reach of her imagination. As an outsider, she soon discovers she was taken to Oz for a reason.

E Exposure. An apparatus recognized by designers in the social media age of fashion. Can lead to Artistic Director positions at Louis Vuitton.

F Fandom. A two-way worship between a designer and his clientele, fashion fandom mimics the codependent relationship between performer and supporter, a connection native to music and sports scenes.

G Gloves. Coverings for the hands employed by Virgil Abloh to accentuate the signature accessories of Louis Vuitton, the colors of gloves are purposely matched to the leather goods with which they are paired.

Graphics. A signature facet in the work of Virgil Abloh, graphic ornamentation no longer takes the form of prints but evolves into artisanal insignia, handembroidered, flocked and off the grid. It is hand-placed individually by Virgil Abloh.

H Halo. A circle of light formed around a fashion house and its collections encompassing the complete creative sphere and significance of a designer.

Harnessing. A term denoting a means of safekeeping, and the conversion of a decorative object into useful ornamentation.

I Irony. The philosophy of a new generation. The presence of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton.

J Jewelry. Objects of decoration often characterized by an all-thatglitters- is-gold understanding of ornamentation, the Spring-Summer 2019 jewelry appears in ceramics or unrarefied metals denoting a contrasting celebration of non-precious materials.

K Kanye West. A mentor and friend to Virgil Abloh.

L Long-windedness. “A blessing and a curse.” –Virgil Abloh.

Louis Vuitton. Parisian purveyor of leather goods founded in 1854. Defined by its Monogram, the House invented logomania. Its brand value retains unparalleled standing across cultures and classes.

Luxury. A label determined by values, codes and qualities, its use and definition were the privilege of few until a new generation conquered its dominion and shifted the paradigm for good.

M Margielaism. A term applied to garments or accessories which reflect the normative fashion religion of a reverent generation of young or younger designers to which Virgil Abloh belongs.

Millennial. A term applied to consumers born between the late 1980s and 1990s, often linked to markets associated with Virgil Abloh, a non-millennial designer with millennial sensibilities.

Model. A person identified by the anatomical, racial and cosmetic features of his appearance. Or, by his artistry, individuality and personality.

Motto. “Good style is always off-putting.” –Virgil Abloh.

N Normcore. The irony of a generation raised on extravagance, and the makedo and mend sensibility of those with access to it.

O Off-White. A greige gradient of white, which alters a component familiar to all. It serves as a blank canvas for perception and interpretation.

Oz. A fantasy land visited by country girl Dorothy in the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz. Upon arrival after a cyclone transports her there, she tells her dog, “Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.”

P Palette. Black, white, off-white, and taupe. Ruby shoe red, brick road yellow, tin man metallic, garland green, and rainbow.

Poppy. A ruby red flower, whose exceptionally fragile structure is contrasted by its psychedelic, narcotic properties and hallucinogenic powers.

Production. A metaphor for finding drama in subtlety, the Spring-Summer 2019 audience of threethousand people is formed by the fashion industry and specially invited students. It creates an atmosphere representative of the dual demographic which will be wearing the collection at hand. Set in the gardens framed by the galleries of the Palais-Royal, sand is rendered like a rainbow while selected guests wear corresponding t-shirts, effectively activating the show through attendance.

Psychedelia. Originally a term for art created through means of intoxication, it describes an innocent sense of elation observed in trippy color formations and kaleidoscopic motifs.

R Rainbow. A kaleidoscopic palette evolving from off-white to polychromatic, synchronously forming a holographic archway known to represent dreams. A motif in The Wizard of Oz, which provides construct to the Spring-Summer 2019 collection.

Rationale. The underlying method of the Spring-Summer 2019 collection, looks are generally designed and styled employing the construction of a top layer, a bottom layer, a mid-layer and an outer layer.

Rockford. The Illinois town in which Virgil Abloh grew up, where Midwestern practicality and utilitarian workwear defined the
popular dress sense, effectively creating an unintentional take on anti-fashion.

S Shoes. The wardrobe component most immediately indicative of an era or movement, each shoe design finds its origins in a sports or vintage culture, from 1960s’ Chelsea boots to the golden era of 1980s’ basketball trainers.

Silhouette. “Revert against stiff and formal. Look as comfortable as you
feel.” –Virgil Abloh.

Sock. An unsung everyday necessity first covered in rhinestones by Michael Jackson in 1983, inspiring a generation of kids to elevate normality. As a child, Virgil Abloh became an early appropriator of the glitter sock.

Soundtrack. An inherent musical juxtaposition staged between a psychedelic jazz intro by BADBADNOTGOOD, which crescendos into I Thought About Killing You by Kanye West.

Staple. A twisted piece of metal that holds two elements together. A term for the essential garments and accessories in a wardrobe.

Streetwear. A predictable clothing genre in a renegade designer’s debut collection as part of the fashion establishment, but one whose sportswear properties are undergoing a critical transformation into luxury.

Styling. Once simply the addendum to a designer’s collection, it now serves as a contemporary fashion tool offered by a designer to the public as an initiation of ideas and ultimate self-expression.

Sunglasses. An accessory that gives the impression of a complete look in an instance. For Spring-Summer 2019 sunglasses reference eyewear from the Al Capone era of Chicago – Virgil Abloh’s former stomping grounds – and riff on the 2005 Louis Vuitton collaboration between Pharrell Williams and Nigo.

Sweats. “Fashion can either ignore what’s happening in the real world, or partake in it.” –Virgil Abloh.

T Tailoring. The paradoxical uniform of the business man, its suitcaseafflicted creases have become engrained in the anatomy of the blazer, forever folded for travel.

Taupe. Virgil Abloh’s favorite color since 1980.

Tie-dye. A homespun take on psychedelia, its trippy effects is often used to illustrate a state of euphoria. The DIY dying technique will hold nostalgic value to those educated at the University of Wisconsin, the foremost hippie college of all time.

Timepieces. Functional fusions between jewelry and clocks that effectively create a process of accessomorphosis, timepieces have been turned into true accessories through the employment of ceramic links in double-wrap configurations.

Tribal. A wealth of motifs identifying a designer’s most original origins and generational pride, they serve as the earliest memory of a boy raised by a Ghanaian tailor mother and her traditional West African garb.

U Utility. Once the luxury of workwear, utilitarian elements now provide fashion with equal parts functionality and pleonasm. It is the usefulness of a multipocket gilet, and the irony of wallet situated at the ankle.

Z “If you’ve made it this far, thank you for your time.” –Virgil.

 

SS 2019 Louis Vuitton Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Louis Vuitton
SS 2019 Fashion Show Louis Vuitton
Spring 2019 Menswear Louis Vuitton
Summer 2019 Fashion Trends Louis Vuitton
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Wed, July 4 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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