The Dirk Bikkembergs man of winter 2012/13 lives in a future where simplicity is the strong point of his wardrobe. In this collection there is a constant striving towards reinterpreting the style of the fashion house, which is visible in the meticulous study of the shape, the painstaking research on details and the physical presence, which is emphasized but never overexposed. On the catwalk, the men carry with them the historical DNA of the brand, with an all-round contemporary awareness: the perfection of the sportsman coincides with the conceptual balance of good looks.
On show, jerkins and coatswhere whose impeccable craftsmanship is seen not only from the lining, but is revealed by exposed outer zips and by the contrasting thread that outlines the skeleton. Thus, the structure of the garment becomes the basis for discreet graphic elements of deconstructed jackets, reefer jackets with a linear cut and reworked windbreakers. Effects of multiple materials and warm/cold contrasts run through the whole collection: the softness of cashmere is combined with the stiffness of technical fabrics, fine leathers and rich wools. On the other hand, there is a certain linearity in the colours: (non) blacks, very dark greens and blues, smoky greens. Nuances to mix and layer, a chromatic certainty pondered thoroughly.
Also, a reference to casual rigorousness, with vaguely retro shapes reinterpreted through a metropolitan style, such as the gabardine trench coats and jerkins with severe lines, double zips and inner pockets concealed between two layers: a perfect balance between a formal and refined external look and a sporty mood on the inside. The trousers follow a fairly soft line and are often cut like jeans. They are hybrid as well, with a slightly lowered crotch and in some cases a more regular fit. A new interpretation of the fit is also visible in the volumes, which are always very balanced. In addition, leather jerkins and modern suits of armour enhanced by the brand’s favourite details: maxi-pockets, large zips and exposed woollen inserts. For knitwear, oblique effects, thick cables and beautiful graphic motifs created by exposed seams. Wool and nylon technical cardigans and seamless cashmere crewnecks. Even the classic model of the sweatshirt is offered in cashmere: the absolute conjunction of elegance and casual comfort. The evening is opulent: beaver furs, sweaters worn on the skin in gold and violet lurex. Tuxedos, hints of velvet, cotton and technical fabric sweaters enhanced by leather inserts.
As far as accessories go, leather tote and weekend bags are offered in the most classic sizes, in shades that go from black to mud, via a very dark green. The wool hats take the classic baseball and riding caps as inspiration.
Special thanks to Simone Rizzo Photographer