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Milan in the 1950s – a city of optimism and dynamism where bold, new constructions rise alongside the muted palazzi of the past. A city of lines: power lines and tram tracks; scaffolding and crossroads; all illuminated by the intense, flickering neon of billboard advertisements. A city of style: impeccably dressed uomini d’affari brush tailored shoulders with the youth in their cropped jackets and rolled up pants.
Andrea Pompilio (Creative Consultant, Canali): “Milan in those years was something unique. A perfect mix of the precision of the past and an explosive sense of creativity, a mixture of practicality and imagination tempered by a typically Italian sense of elegance.”
The Canali FW15 collection begins with this vision – building a bridge between tradition and modernity, where the tailoring expertise and exquisite materials that have been a hallmark of the brand since its foundation are applied to new shapes and proportions.
Contours are linear yet form-fitting, showcasing a renewed focus on leisurewear Wool pants rest at the ankle with a distinctive 8cm cuff, while coats and jackets in the softest cashmere are crafted using an exclusive double technique to create luxurious, lightweight garments.
Lines abound throughout the collection in different forms: singly in classic chalk-stripes, painted roughly for a mélange effect or intersecting with one another to create window-pane checks. A monochrome palette recalls the color-scape of the city, with occasional flashes in petrol blue and Canali yellow to draw in the eye.
The resulting collection comes to life on a runway made up of a seven different piazze, each illuminated by a grid-like installation of neon lines. Models move from one space to the next through a series of linear pathways – meeting and crisscrossing with one another in an abstract evocation of the urban context. In the same way, exacting creativity and exemplary craftsmanship cross paths in the new collection, taking the Canali man in an exciting new direction for next Winter.
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Tags: CANALI, CANALI FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16
Urban Romanticism
Cultivated through time and place and projected by experience and mood, individual style is the starting point of the Gucci Men’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection.
Visceral storytelling through fashion, the collection celebrates the idiosyncrasies that define personal style today. From a flourish of a chiffon bow to mink-lined men’s slippers to smatterings of signet rings, a dreamy ambiguity pulsates throughout.
An attitude not a silhouette; an experience not an era—the new collection is a point of departure that blurs the masculine/feminine divide and champions the youthful energy and natural confidence of today’s urbanites.
Contemporary non-conformists, modern romantics, they have hidden spots in every city and a shared intellectual curiosity that informs how they live and what they wear.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, GUCCI, GUCCI FW 2015-16
The total comfort of knitwear, the ductility of jersey, the texture of yarn that becomes an aesthetic dimension that creates new fabrics: the Emporio Armani collection has a strongly urban feel, characterised by the presence of jersey as a highlight and knitwear as an unusual detail.
Rough-cut cloth jersey gives shape to pea coats and parkas made of needled check and in fabrics with a mohair look, lending an image of warmth and comfort.
Research into fabrics and a contemporary taste for graphics are surprisingly expressed in classic herringbone or damier jacquard into which gold and silver metallic threads are woven, interrupted by abstract brush strokes that hint at shodo, traditional japanese calligraphy.
The detail that lends character and defines the garments is that of the macro zip, which outlines the shape of the trousers or fully profiles the jacket.
The jacket becomes increasingly lightweight; unlined and completely unstructured, it offers precise details with features taken from the classic bomber, such as the small shawl collar, ribbed cuffs and bottom edge, and is paired with trousers with a suit effect, both in ribbed knit, as well as in jersey or patterned fabric.
Jackets also come in a camel-coloured compact knit with gold side zipper, or have an incorporated waistcoat. The formal suit has new proportions: a short and tight jacket with smaller lapels and slightly sagging shoulders, combined with wide trousers with two pleats, which gather at the bottom.
Accessories complete the collection, with the use of leathers, fabrics and processing. For example, unstructured rough-cut bags in soft nappa are lined with knitwear. Tan hand-held bags and the backpack are enhanced with macro hinges, or are made in needled check with shodo graphics.
The traditional lace-ups feature tips and heels trimmed with contrasting rubber, while sneakers have a hinge and are covered in fabric. Scarves disappear for a season, replaced by striking collars and bibs in plain stitch with a zipper.
The colour palette is classic, featuring black, grey, camel, blue, hints of chocolate and metallic touches of satin gold and silver.
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Tags: EMPORIO ARMANI, EMPORIO ARMANI FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16
