The perfume of China, intense and sophisticated like the view of Shanghai from the Bund, modern and precious like the contemporary art district of Peking.
The Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection takes its inspiration from an unexpected vision of the Great Country, seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship.
In this interpretation, iconic Chinese elements become luxurious details and leitmotifs of a style that is both cosmpolitan and modern. Oversize gold “pagoda” buttons punctuate the dresseses, coats and maxi-gilets at a raised waist, to create an elongated silhouette.
Ming vase inspired floral motifs in golden metal climb up the transparent plexiglass heels of ankle boots worn with dresses both short and supershort and semi-flats worn with loose, tailored pants.
Decorations become jewels: buckles on the wide belts and on the new Heroine bag that can be worn as a maxi clutch or as a shoulder bag. The last reference to traditional Chinese motifs is in the linings of the long coats, painted and embroidered like cloisonne’ enamel.
Then, a modern motif inspired by the romantic Chinese heroine Maggie Cheung: the windowpane check print cheongesam in the film “In the mood for love.”
This graphic element is newly interpreted as a white stiched leather embellishment on column coats in wool crepe, in white string embroidery on black micropaillette evening dresses, melded with classic floral patterns, in white pailletes on fur, or in silk fringed by hand and added to fabric to create an entirely new type of “fur.”
Shanghai night dresses, very long or super short in hand lacquered chinese-screen print silk, ocelet printed ponyskin, sinuous liquid paillettes with tulle intarsia, and slender wrapped silk with velvet embroidery melding opium garden motifs with delicate traces of tiger stripes.
Dreamy evening dresses flow with soleil panelleled degradé chiffon plissé.
Roberto Cavalli © Copyright 2015