The spirit and emotion of the mid-Twentieth Century British artist. Francis Bacon. John Deakin. Soho. The artist vulnerable yet powerful. Hybrids: classic clothing taken apart at the seams, turned on its head. The maverick male in heritage McQueen.
Cut, pieced and patched trench coats, hunting jackets, pinstripes, knits, shirting and military clothing realised with the power and immediacy of a broad-brush stroke. Strength of character, individuality and creativity.
Tailoring forms the backbone to this collection. The silhouette is precise. Jackets are fitted with a square shoulder and a narrow waist, empowering and empowered. Trompe l’oeil coats in pinstripe suiting are worn with gabardine trenches slashed to the elbow and lined with painters pink satin.
Bonded plongé leather rain coats in colbalt blue and painters pink are raw cut. Cigarette pants are cropped at the ankle. Shirts are worn with slashed cuffs. Traditional menswear is deconstructed, panelled with opposing garments and fabrics. Trench cotton is bonded with cavalry twill, wool silk coats layered over trompe l’oeil jackets. Plongé leather and organza layered cotton gabardine overalls are belted and undone to the waist.
Exploded paint palette jacquard knits with hanging threads are worn with leather motocross trousers, finished with nickel zips. Perfecto grainy leather jackets and biker trousers are hand-painted. Hybrid jackets in ivory wool silk and lust red are first slashed then pieced with black wool silk military coats.
Trousers are striped with lust red and optic white. Hand-painting and embroidery is abstract with bold embroidered brushstrokes. Cotton silk jacquards draw on the artist’s studio and the work of John Deakin, as do more embroideries, this time in muted silver gunmetal: “Graffiti”, “Graffiti Faces”, “You Are All Nice”.
Alexander McQueen © Copyright 2018