“I wanted to imagine our own counter-cultures which then morph together, with their own ways of living and surviving” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
The collection explores counter-culture as a way of being. Outsiders from different fields – academics, anarchists, bohemians, off-grid pioneers – are gathered then mixed, as if to build a new community.
Their clothing takes on its own individuality and character. These men have a magpie attitude to style, a look that is both practical and romantic. The wardrobe brings together seemingly disparate elements that, together, makes fresh sense.
Jersey tops have purposefully imperfect ribbing, patched with images from the classic anatomical textbook Gray’s Anatomy. Chunky knit snoods have fringes so long they almost touch the floor.
Tweed coats are woven in wool and cotton to give crispness. Cowhide coats are left their natural shade in places, elsewhere dyed vivid brights.
Jacquard tops are woven in patterns like football kits from another era. An alternate football shirt pattern is printed on a bohemian hoodie and coat, made from wool woven with polyester.
Cashmere boucle cardigans have been washed, and are worn loose as an outer layer. Pants have fastenings like dungarees that can be worn folded open.
Tailoring in jersey cuts close to the body, with small flowers trapped in the see-through buttons. Other long silhouette suiting has Lycra for added stretch.
Ponchos are knitted as if from loose threads trapped in fabric, with fringing only on the front.
A sweater has loose yarns trapped under a layer of sheer pink nylon, as if all could be unravelled.
Hiking boots supercharged soles, while rubber industrial boots are perfect for surviving the elements. Multi-pocket body bags are extremes of functionality.
Brooches trap flowers in resin, as if pressed in a book. Spherical cutaway jewelry are as if the symbols of a new society.