A military influence melded with the great tradition of Italian tailoring is the driving underlying signature of Andrea Pompilio’s design sensibility. Taking a new direction this season, they are overlaid by an unprecedented dark, austere mood.
Essential cuts and minimal graphic details characterize indeed the wardrobe of the FW 2015/2016’s man. A sophisticated aviator, he transcends historical references through a contemporary interpretation of his own identity.
Pieces standout via a high impact solid palette of navy blue, denim, white and grey, softened by hues of mint, egg and camel, and energized by bright shades of lollipop pink, scarlet red and acid yellow.
Extraordinary detail and texture structures the outerwear. Striking double collars in contrast fabrics feature on oversized single-breasted and double- breasted coats, their silhouettes broken up by high-waisted belts. Shearlings in traditional aviator styles are constructed from mixed materials and shades. A luxurious fake fur in smoke grey alpaca is washed to a fuzzy finish, while rippled leather resembling elephant skin is bonded with wool cashmere jersey in another coat.
Underscoring precise cuts, a ribbon band is inset on coat and jacket’s backs, to follow the curve of the shoulders, and is revealed on the side of jacket sleeves and pant legs. Constructed from contrast fabric or white rubber coating, it outlines the profile, to reiterate the silhouette. Chenille badges, recalling air force decoration, highlight poplin shirts, knits and sweatshirts.
Modern Italian tailoring includes two button and three button fit jackets, paired with roomy straight-legged pants.
Tuxedos in rich forest green and burgundy silk mix modern and refined elements: the handmade jacket’s sleeve cuffs are turned over like an elegant dressing gown, and the pants have an elasticated waist, like boxer’s shorts. The look is worn with striped black-and-white sneakers – a reference to American sportswear.
Accessories highlight both graphic accents and the air force influence: long gloves with contrast pop-colored shearling stripes are layered on bomber jackets and shirts, while huge padded hoods, recalling those seen on parachutist uniforms, top cotton sweatshirts. Simple sacs in shaved calfskin, pony skin and nappa, marked with AP initials, are the final touch to some looks, while a classic derby is constructed in a trekking shoe style, with leather and Velcro neoprene straps.