Corneliani © Copyright 2013
“What is contemporary style if not a fusion of feelings, places and memories? Corneliani was founded in Mantua over 50 years ago, and this town steeped in art and culture has been a source of inspiration for the whole collection,” explains Sergio Corneliani, the company’s creative director. “Not least the staging by Marzia Migliora, an extraordinary artist who has brought a contemporary twist to the misty landscapes and leaden skies of our autumn seasons. The landscape appears in the background of Andrea Mantegna’s 1462 painting, now on display in the Prado. In the painting one can make out the San Giorgio bridge, which crosses the lagoon around Mantua; to the sides there is an expanse of water lilies, which the artist has reinterpreted with an installation of over 400 leaves made from lead sheet. Her staging symbolises perfectly the link between the past and the present both in art and fashion. After all, today we simply cannot do without the tailored cut of elegant Italian style, the comfort of sportswear, technological fabrics and that touch of flamboyance which makes each look individual. To me, this is fashion fusion.”
And now to the collection: shapes are pared down to the max in the tailored suits, with tapered trousers and soft, light, longer jackets. Colours range from anthracite grey to camel and neutrals to garnet red, a homage to Renaissance decoration. The coats in soft, snug alpaca are decidedly over- sized. Comfortable sportswear is the inspiration for the pea jackets, which feature a double revers in contrasting materials: leather and suede, nappa and bouclé jersey.
Even the classic biker jacket is reworked with a stylish twist and finished off with suede trimming.
In the panel-structured jackets there are plays on inserts and contrasting fabrics.
The strength of the collection lies in knitwear, a symbol of tradition and technological innovation. It is decorated with an interlinked rings motif inspired by the frescoes of the “Bridal Chamber” in Mantua’s Ducal Palace, hand-embroidered, coloured or embellished with ultra-light leather laces. High-tech performance is the byword for the needle-felted pullovers, which blend wool and nappa to create sophisticated geometrical inlays.
The collection’s must-have item is a knitted jacket for both daytime and the evening, cinched at the waist and inspired by a cosy smoking jacket, redesigned here with a sophisticated new look.
For evenings, a black nappa and alpaca blazer is perfect for dandies who never take themselves too seriously!
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MAN FALLS IN THE NET
A nappa leather trench coat with laser openwork, washed with natural enzymes to give it a well-worn, very light look. This is one of the must haves of the Corneliani Spring/Summer collection, which has reinterpreted leisurewear to reflect a style that is modern, relaxed and elegant. The jacket too is made of cotton knit, to be worn under a nappa leather, dove grey safari jacket.
The extremely precious fabrics are made by weaving shot silks and linens together and are inspired by winter tweeds. Colours are light in cool tones from mastic to brown and pearl grey, as a well as total white and total black. The supreme icon of male elegance, the suit, has also been reinterpreted in terms of shape and proportions and is now suggested for free times use.
The totally deconstructed jackets feature large shoulders and wide lapels, with soft, light trousers that have 2 or pleats. The trick is in the details: from the shirt-style sleeves to bellow pockets, from the ties to the ultra-light, matching scarves that are now an indispensable accessory.
The collection’s strength is the leather, as soft as a glove, and openwork netting in the trench coat, as well as in the shirts, i the knitwear and in the blousons with nappa leather and suede inserts that are reminiscent of the ancient armor of the Gonzaga family.
The shoes also feature openwork netting.
“To change the rules while remaining faithful to our past, we have to implement new technological procedures, working on the details, materials and fit, which must not neglect comfort and sartorial elegance,” says Sergio Corneliani, the brand’s creative director.
“I believe that in today’s world we should aim above all to make quality suits that reflect the spirit of the times we live in, but that thanks to their style can remain in the wardrobe as they transcend season and fashions.
The concept I have based this collection on is transforming leisurewear garments too into symbols of strictly Italian-made elegance.”
The Great Gatsby: the power of style
A cashmere trench coat tied at the waist over an extremely elegant strictly white double-breasted suit. In anticipation of the remake of The Great Gatsby, Corneliani re-inteprets the elegance of the great Don Juan with the power of a contemporary sartorial style and meticulous attention to details, starting with the bag and shoes to match in tweed, Prince of Wales and cashmere.
A touch of high style that reinforces the collection’s philosophy: a contemporary “custom-made” tailoring to focus upon that will win the hearts of consumer and emphasize the brand’s point of origin.
For the Fall-Winter 2012 collection, the must have is the cashmere knitted suit that highlights a style which is increasingly relaxed, confident and unstructured while still observing tradition. Double-breasted models are more slim-fitted and less formal; topcoats are long and fluid; the contours of suits are unquestionably subtler.
Optical and the “new” black with a glossy woollen tone that create a luminous chromatic effect.
For those special touches of eccentricity: a sheared mink jacket – as soft and light as velvet – for a very special evening, a knit and fur poncho or a sport-chic heavy jacket.
For freezing temperatures, patchwork sheepskin with fabric details: easy wear that is bold, informal and sophisticated.
Sergio Corneliani the brand’s creative director, suggest a style balanced between the hectic city life and a dreamlike, out of this world holiday represented by the magic of the desert, echoed in the comfort of forms and colours: white, beige and sand.
Created with the aid of tradition and technology, abaca – the star of the next S/S collection is a new vegetable fibre which is water resistant, extremely thin, and elastic. Also known as a Manila hemp, this plant grows without the intervention of humans and symobolizes a more environmentally correct kind of fashion. To emphasise the desire for nature and escape, the models walk on the sand of an imaginary desert across the fashion show’s set.
The keywords are confidence and comfort, the new rules of contemporary elegance, with attention to detail as the only touch of ironic eccentricity.