A modernist interpretation of early 20th century Russian court dress, Spring/Summer 2017 marks David Koma’s first far-reaching foray into period costume. Through his typical 1960s lens, the designer – who was raised in Saint Petersburg not far from the Winter Palace – explores the grace and grandeur of the Romanov family, from the dramatic glamour of the tsarinas’ wardrobes to the graphic opulence of the imperial family’s beloved Fabergé eggs.

Uniform elements set a regal tone for the collection in hussar rope braid and loop closures, which appear throughout, evoking the image of women in military-inspired garments. The volume of the royal dress code of the time is introduced in capacious gigot sleeves, sliced across the shoulders to reveal the décolletage and applied to David Koma’s distinct strict structuring in dresses and tailoring.

Garments take on a princely air, such as a top sculpted like a tailed waistcoat. Majesty and modernism are further fused in the collection’s vast embellishment, which imitates the delicate ornamentation of Fabergé eggs. Intricate diamond patterns in crystal cover the surface of fabrics and fade into cut-outs at the hem.

Elaborate embroidery of white ceramic and neon stones bejewel garments like they were armour, while the Romanov’s signature sumptuousness meets futurism in Plexiglass and chain macramé constructions. In a final royal synthesis, court dress meets contemporary sportswear in shocks of acid green amongst black, white, and beige.

David Koma © Copyright 2016

David Koma has always been drawn to a powerful, sensual woman but for Autumn/ Winter ’15, she is distinctly carefree and confident. Signature strictly tailored silhouettes get a new outlook with the introduction of more separates, as well as his classic dresses. The designer explores the shapes and sensibilities of the Sixties and Seventies.

This is classic Koma re-worked: trademark angular lines broken by cyclical cut outs, knitwear, macramé lace and ruffles. Longer-line skirts come with a daring split up their front, while an expertly cut jumpsuit boasts a flared leg. There’s a new sexiness and sophistication to be found here.

In striking black comes a series of buckled wool dresses, all high necklines – and even higher hemlines. Macramé knots inspired by the Op Art textile designer Barbara Brown work to reveal and conceal flashes of skin: cyclical patent leather defines tiny waists; and ruffles at the wrist and thigh are playful.

Bright orange and bold indigo are offset with classic nude tones to bring the “youthquake” couturiers André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin to mind, and other of the decade’s influences are seen in the heavily embellished Perspex and crystal finale dresses.

Malone Souliers x David Koma’s first collaboration sees sharp stilettos and space-cadet-style sandals take to the catwalk.

David Koma © Copyright 2015