Tue, June 30 2015 » Fashion Blog
For the SS2016 Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection Stefano Pilati juxtaposes the brand’s very own nature of sartorial leadership and heritage in noble fibers with a refreshing expression of masculine identity.
The plethora of fabrics is the undisputed protagonist of the SS16 collection: from the exclusive trans seasonal Double Century Cashmere, super fine Lanificio Zegna wools, silks, a range of cottons to luxurious Japanese textiles.
The attitude is relaxed and sportified but with a delicate elegant summery allure, an accurate balance of fluidity, transparency and lightness : all elements dear to womenswear newly translated this season, to create a new code for a stylish masculine and contemporary personality.
The contrasting volumes reveal unconventional ways of silhouettes: flowing trousers, classics but subtly detailed, evident or hidden, in their construction are paired with nonchalance either to oversized outerwear or elegantly tight fitted, single or double breasted jackets, studied for an innovative and extremely light way of tailoring; or with floating summer coats, multi pocketed gilets, bomber jackets and draped blousons, alongside shirts and overcoats that intersperse the vocabulary of men’s wardrobe icons.
Essential is also the wide range of accessories all made with eco sustainable metal-free leather, following the “mission” Zegna started last season introducing the Eco-leader campaign.
The colorful symphony of micro and macro Madras patterns play with shades of beautiful “non-whites”, as well as mid toned or dark toned looks framed by optical white and total black.
The blend of “new” and “classic”, perfectly embodied by the Broken Suit concept, is the intrinsic overall angle of Stefano Pilati’s design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and wisely reflects Zegna’s heritage and DNA through a distinctive and innovative timeless aesthetic.
Sun, June 28 2015 » Fashion Blog
Mon, January 26 2015 » Fashion Blog
Architecture, space, the city, nature and science, these are the themes visited by Stefano Pilati in past Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collections.
For the Autumn Winter 2015/16 the ‘luxury of choice’ is eco-solidarity.
The eco-sustainability theme is not new to Gruppo Zegna, who have, over generations, been consistent in their commitment to social and environmental activities. Through constant research into the quality of their products with an absolute respect for the environment, the group continues to maintain leadership in the development and production yarn, cloth and garments made from natural fibers.
The uniform of an Eco-leader is the key inspiration of Stefano Pilati for this collection, seen through the use of noble fibers from the house, as well as original archive Harris Tweeds, selected for their authenticity and for their “recyclability”.
A sense of environmental “protection” is perceived not only in the garments and accessories but also in the attitude.
An attitude of ‘action’, in ‘the field’, opens the show, interspersed with the pure poetry of the broken suit in both velvet or corduroy, before taking a more urban turn for the second part.
Utilitarian “eco-leaders” uniforms are translated in jackets with subtly and softly sculpted details, where pockets are pleated or gathered, worn with tailored pants either elasticated at the bottom or conceived multifunctional.
Shoes and boots are covered by protection elements, while hybrid bags are sporty and luxurious.
All to define a new “urban uniform” with a leisure flavor.
Ermenegildo Zegna is industry, business, luxury, but also protection, sensibility and poetry.
Colors: Grey, Charcoal, Smoke, Brown, Hazel Brown, Khaki, Sage, Mint, Salmon, Oxblood, Plum, Black, Dark Blue.
Plants and Trees: Taxus Media Hicksii, Pinus Mugo, Juniperus, Camellia, Azalea, Rhododendron, Aucuba, Fern, Oat Grass; Rhododendron, Cedrus Pendula, Medlar Trees, Cupressuscyparis Leylandii, Cinnamomum Camphora, Cupressus Gold Crest, Viburnum Thymus, Cupressus FilIera , Taxus.
The vegetation is inspired by Oasi Zegna, where the set will be replanted.
Mon, January 26 2015 » Fashion Blog
Industry in support of savoir-faire
Conjugating contradictions is the challenge undertaken by the Ermenegildo Zegna Group and Stefano Pilati.
The traditional manual tailoring statute of the brand is poetically translated into an original pièce that took the inspiration by the sound of the machines within the group’s production sites, which has been composed and performed by pianist Maxence Cyrin to intersperse the contemporary rhythm of techno-industrial music by Klas Åhlund, in tune with images shot and edited by director Johan Söderberg for the video background of the Ermenegildo Zegna Fashion show.
Pilati’s concept for his first collaboration with the Zegna Group is clear: the collection is part of an interactive script; its aesthetic told through video and audio suggestions. Tailoring and chromatic gestures are the key elements of a fashion show that will champion the opening of an on-site installation scheduled to last the duration of men’s fashion week.
An action of the Zegna Group in support of the city of Milan to stimulate the interaction between experts in the fashion industry and new consumers of the system.
Fabrics, Kid Mohair and wool jacquard canvas, Oxford in pure wool microeffects, Sable wool and silk, Satin double gatefold wool, Kid Mohair and Silk, Gabardine three-dimensional pure wool, Pure cotton double color, double opening twill, True duplication in canvas of pure silk fabric, Pure wool with floral jacquard with twill base and Chevron background, Gabardine Technica, Oxford polyester and nylon, Structure of cotton and Kid Mohair, Panama in iridescent pure cotton, Full-grain calf suede, Embroidery and applications.
Colors, White 1 Black 2, Navy Blue 3, Dark Blue 4, Light Blue 5, Sky Blue 6, Ivory 7, Butter 8, Sand 9,Tortora 10, Antique Rose 11, Coral 12, Brick 13, Bordeaux 14, Chick 15, Apricot 16, Saffron 17, Coffee 18, Olive 19, Khaki 20, Tobacco 21, Mud 22, Meadow 23, Ice 24, Clay 25, Asphalt 26, D’Annunzio 27, Antique Blue 28, Lovat 29, Light Jade 30 Medium Jade 31, Sage 32, Fern 33.
Thu, September 12 2013 » Fashion Blog
STYLE FOR CHANGE WITH NEW WINTER SILKS AND URBAN PINSTRIPES
Fashion can boast a visionary vein that often plants the seed of change and evolution. And in this era of transition, the Zegna FW 2013 collection imagines for the future a young world immersed in the tides o epochal change.
A groundbreaking energy pulsates throughout the closet, emerging here and there, from the graphic lines of impeccable pinstripes to the “sportified” accents infused into the more formal garments.
The palette is filled with shades of grey that conjure images of a new industrial revolution: asphalt, steel, cement and granite, brightened up with flashes of white and deep green.
Nuances that the Zegna laboratory, always at the vanguard, declined in fabrics that look to the future and epitomized by the Winter ZegnaSilk, a carded silk worked with the cashmere technology on beaver cloths and enriched with Thirties prints and new mélanges.
The design approach is rational: all that is meaningful from the past, both recent and remote, is revisited to create an elegance luxurious as always but also practical and without trappings.
Classically cut coats, made from feather-light spazzolino, the prized alpaca fabric launched by Agnona in the Seventies, are worn over double-breasted and elongated suits, immaculate shirts with refined collars and matching cummerbunds that raise the waistline.
And still, a formality contaminated by a sportier attitude that brings to life jackets and outerwear with sharp architectural proportions in compact fabrics that display a discreet aggressive side via flashes of metal hardware.
Blouson jackets in silk knit or sheared mink and cropped deerskin anoraks, bonded with wool or spazzolino, are worn loosely as sweatshirts. The knitwear is sober, favoring turtlenecks, gilets and cardigans with mixes of micro fantasies and sumptuous “granite effect” cashmere bouclé. Garments that are worn over padded fencer bodices in wool, napa and silk, to surprising effect.
The accessories are ideal for brief trips that are part of the new lifestyle and feature a bold character thanks to compact shaped and the reiteration of the bit in bicolor metal. The solid tapered points shoes are made with hand polished calfskin just like the bags, an array spanning travel bags, hold-alls and computer bags reinforced by handmade piping and featuring handles and pockets on the inside. The glasses have transparent frames, a metal soul and smoky lenses.
Mon, February 11 2013 » Fashion Blog
Longing for Couture in the Spring Summer Ermenegildo Zegna collection.
The rigor of traditional Italian tailoring opens the sophisticated possibility of an eclecticism that is almost eccentric in the choice of new fabric.The mirror of the atelier returns to being an essential counterpart. With it a continuous dialogue is established, with looks that alternate between control and aesthetic reinsurance.
Now the silhouette is defined, jackets with shoulders moderately sunken, raised waist and wide lapels, all in favor of a slender figure that comes complete with high-waisted pants with the fold stitched. A construction with no uncertainties, but comfortable – which has the power to give to every man elegant allure – supported by the wide choice of fabrics which stands out among the proposed summer project Zegna Silk.
The wardrobe is that of a confident grown man and that knows the value of well-made clothes but wants to enjoy amiable eccentricities, such as all-over prints to a tropical inspiration to peep into details here and there with shirts, linings, accessories.
Colors range from classic ivory and blue, gray clouds, many shades of tobacco, teal and red.
The fabrics make the difference in full-bodied formal and cocktail suits and coats in silk taffeta, silk dubbed with perforated and laser effects iridescent shantung. The luxury alternative, a solid Irish linen. It’s a reinterpretation of the classics that draw on the feminine textures reinterpreted with the unstoppable ability to experiment with Zegna, extending up to the shirts, the most seductive in soft silk printed vintage, yarn and knitted silk and twisted mouliné.
The summer, with its dilated time, will be elegantly experienced with garments that draw on even more sporting and result in the couture blouson setting, reefer jackets and tassels made of Illusion, dubbed cottons, technical silks. Accessories are the key to this impeccable look. One cannot go wrong wearing loafers with Heritage tassels and flexible loafers in soft leather lining and – most stunning – silk patterned small banana leaves.
The bags recapture the poise, they are geometric and are inspired by luggage of the past in the details of handles, corners and rivets.
Ties in knit and silk twill and printed scarves, with a little cache, will be the final touch.
The mirror approves.
Fri, July 13 2012 » Fashion Blog