The Versace Man Fall-Winter 2019 collection reflects on the modern concept of man and on an idea of masculinity that pushes the boundaries and breaks the rules of menswear by challenging notions and stereotypes.
“In the ‘90s there was such a specific idea of A man but, since then, fashion has evolved dramatically and today one cannot define men in just that same, clear way. Everything has changed, and today’s society allows everyone a greater freedom to express themselves with their clothes as well as with their actions. What I wanted to show in this collection are the different facets of a man, who, like everyone, dresses according to the occasion and has gained the courage that he didn’t have before. If I had to find a word that defines today’s men, it would be daring.”
This collection aims to create a conversation about what menswear is today by empowering people to explore and express the various aspects of their character through style choices. Every man is free to tell his own personal story in a society where individuality matters as much as being recognized as part of a group.
Only a confident man is able to see beyond the status quo and challenge it. This newly found attitude gives him the freedom and security to ignore conventional norms around beauty, and even more so, around masculinity.
Sharp tailored suits with safety pin details walk next to see-through plastic pants or bondage-printed silk shirts. Embroidered lace details are placed on knitwear and worn with the most classic Prince-of-Wales pants and the Chain Reaction sneakers. Embroidered boxer-style shorts are worn with button-up dress shirts.
A Limited Edition collaboration with Ford is inspired by the excitement of buying your first car. Excitement and aspiration of owning something as an extension of one’s personality, something very connected to the idea of being a man.
The layered looks and seemingly random clash of elements, colors, jewelry, accessories, prints and shapes give men the possibility and courage to test the extent of masculinity and to tell their own story.
Mon, January 28 2019 » Fashion Blog
OMG, here they are.
We have set them on fire so far.
A tangle of neurons, antiphons, emotions.
They protest for everything and wear notions.
One becomes the other, the other becomes one, nobody is ever alone under the sun.
The extravagant non-diagnosable are unbreakable heroes, the indefinable aliens mingle with the indefensible weirdos.
Ephebic fauns are not left standing like huns.
Dangerous goonies are also a little gluttonous.
In the index, they are certainly not typical.
They are kids, with something criminal.
They are terrible, but incredible.
Never following the tide, they want to explore the other side.
In sync, they enchant and think.
They hug you, then they curse you.
Here is the tribe of the ruthless early life.
It never stops, so it is prompt.
They are fierce, but they do not pierce.
They only pierce the farce of arrogance and intolerance.
A metamorphic exploration of the new youth through three-dimensionality.
Like elephants in the room, items are magnified. Like frames of Allegro non troppo, the animated movie (1976) by Bruno Bozzetto from which the prints are drawn, items evolve, sensually, mixing patterns, liveries and functions with Dionysian energy.
The start is classic: bouclé coats, moleskin jackets and trousers, oxford shirts, in bold proportions. An animal and pansexual psychedelia follows on shirts, parkas and anoraks drawing a rebellious bestiary. Mohair sweaters, a bevy of stripes, and then pajamas, checks and foulard shirts. The movement closes again with classics, that now get a sensual touch: leather jackets, misaligned pinstripes, synthetic reptile patterns.
Exploded, stapled, assembled loafers. Banana Sock boots, and then padlocks, flasks and chains.
Fri, January 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
“Dualism is in the DNA of FENDI, under every form,” says Silvia Venturini Fendi.
Dialogue is one: the encounter and connection of two personalities. Silvia Venturini Fendi and “Guest Artist” Karl Lagerfeld: a lifetime creative relationship, now becoming explicit in the Men’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Collection.
Handwritten notes, images, sketches: a moodboard seamlessly connecting a Parisian studio with a ginormous library to the Roman one, becoming a Collage print transported throughout the Collection. A sketch initiates the conversation – a tailored jacket with shawl collar on one side and lapel on the other.
Everything is dual: futurism and classicism swirl in a palette dominated by black, beige and brown, with accents of red and electric blue. Transparency and see-through give consistency to FENDI’s free-flowing lightness, playing with volumes and materials: the tuxedo is cut in organza, just like halves puffer parkas and intarsia fur pieces.
Zippers split knitwear and plongé nappa pieces in two, functionally, interchanging left with right, front with back. The metallic and shimmering luster of silver and gold is a streetwear reminiscent presence, from the anorak to the mink coat. Little chains draw pinstripes on high-collared shirts and lines on ribbed knits.
A futuristic FF logo alternates with a calligraphic one, found also on accessories, from gold chains to chevalier rings. Shoes echo Lagerfeld’s signature, as the Cuban heels on cordovan or patent shoes. A functional traveler, the FENDI man brings his essentials around into cases, studded, foldable or defended by transparent covers turning into shoppers.
FENDI’s legendary Baguette makes its debut for men: from mini to maxi, in precious croco or mink and Selleria leather. To be worn cross-body, hand-carried or as a belt bag. The Peekaboo family with its members and evolutions: X-Lite Fit and the new Essential for men. The signature bonded nylon of PORTER meets the two iconic FENDI shapes, which become ultralight and outsized in this contemporary collaboration.
According to Silvia Venturini Fendi, the moment is ripe to bring sartorial formality back, always with a FENDI twist.
Fri, January 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Ermenegildo Zegna© Copyright 2019
Walks of life
Life, streamed. A makeshift runway creates a tangle of crossing paths in the open spaces of the hall of Milano Centrale, the railway station that’s a landmark of the city. A place of endless passage, where individuals of all walks of life have met for almost a century, and continue to do so every hour of every day, arriving and departing. This place fueled on diversity acts as the lively backdrop of a collection that is a connection of diversities.
“Borders keep being narrowed throughout the world – says Zegna Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori – I felt the urge to advocate the power of openness and multiplicity through my own means as a fashion designer, expressing awareness and responsibility at every step of the creative process, from textile-making to devising new categories of clothing to the staging of the fashion show in such a meaningful place. In doing so, I keep perfecting my vision of the contemporary metropolitan wardrobe: an idea of tailoring for a cross-generation of global customers”
This season, a soft sense of formality comes to the fore, attuned to the industrial drum of the concrete jungle to match the needs of fast, connected lives. Categories are mixed and hybridized: jackets have outerwear pockets; shirts become jackets in boxy, functional volumes; blousons sport tailored collars; cargo pants are sartorially inclined. Even the quilted puffer jackets are constructed in the tailoring atelier, gaining an elevated touch. The silhouette is personal, effortless and taut.
Outerwear, either long or cropped, is dramatic and voluminous, with bubbly bombers, quilted parkas with detachable collars and knit overcoats; jackets have lean, longer volumes, concealed closures and geometric pockets; full trousers narrow towards the elasticated bottom. Knit is a building block that offers further textural stimulation. The energy of the connection is highlighted by the spirited mix of patterns: jacquards singularly adapted to each garment; textural weaves of cashmere, paper and leather; slogans and metropolitan scenes turned into bold visual abstractions either as prints or jacquards.
Looks are grounded on bold-soled zippered boots and multi-material sneakers, with the iconic Cesare being available for complete customization as #MyCesare is launched online on the night of the show. Those seeking to personalise with My Cesare can do so in-store, at selected Ermenegildo Zegna stores worldwide, and online post-show on Farfetch and WeChat. In keeping with the assertive functional mood, bags are roomy and geometric, with modular solutions.
Fusion and manipulation are the bywords fabric-wise, too. Under the slogan #UseTheExisting, the collection, supported by the Zegna textile division, is almost entirely made with exclusive wool, cashmere and nylon fabrics created with innovative processes from pre-existing sources. The result is a luxuriously supple yet responsible fabrications that are recycled as well as recyclable. The exclusive fabrics give a dense, textural shimmer to a metropolitan palette of white, Felt, Commissar and Warsaw greys, Beluga black, Notte blue, khaki, Syberian green, lit by touches of Absinthe and Citrine quartz and amalgamated into fused compositions.
Diversities get connected, at every level, and streamed live across all the screens in Milano Centrale for passersby to enjoy and further connect.
Credits: Alessandro Sartori Artistic Direction, Wladimir Schall Music, Bureau Betak Event Design Direction and Production
Mon, January 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall Winter 2019 Men’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 19th January 2019 at 8 PM CET. Stay Tuned! #HERMESHOMME
Fri, January 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Reinterpreting masculinity without the limits imposed by cultural stereotypes and by the centuries- old trappings of sexism. Analyzing with clean eyes man’s natural eroticism and the ambiguity that comes from male complicity, so as to liberate both expressions from the pitfalls of camaraderie. Embracing the pursuit of a new path for narrating the aesthetic choices of a new man. With no pre- set theories and no codes. This N°21 Fall/Winter 2019 collection marks the shaping of a men’s wardrobe that takes place free of all preconceptions.
«For too many years men’s fashion let itself be imprisoned by genres and trends, from dated businesswear to the more recent sportswear. I thought the time has come not only to jumble up references but also to construct a type of apparel that can bypass all classifications, just as are doing now in everyday life the new generations of men, from millennials to the men of subsequent generations. I’m convinced that without the affects of stereotypical cultural limitations on how they dress, men become better able to understand not simply themselves but also the world around, including the major decisive change on the part of the female universe», says N°21 creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
EROTICISM It’s the elusive, fleeting atmosphere of a world made up more of signs and signals than of conspicuous appearances. Rather than muscles, it is the tailoring of jackets that accents the plunging necklines of a double tank top, the layering of low-cut sweaters, the see-through effect of loose-stitch cable knits. Or it’s the double sleeves in jersey that emerge from those on a wool sweater, as well as the little cardigans in wool punch-needled with chiffon that assume a slightly rigid boxing shape yet with all the softness of cashmere. Likewise, it’s a story unfolding from the pants, coats and shirts in a leather-mimicking glazed poplin; from the leather duffel-coat with neoprene lining; from the blanket stripes fashioning coats and jackets; from the navy blue peacoat with narrow shoulders; from the neckties in superfine kid mohair; from the shirts with contrast piping; from the double zip ankle boots and the laceup boots with zips on both sides.
AMBIGUITY Rather than an identity game, it’s the inflection of a basic attribute of male sensitivity that instead of translating into a stereotypical sense of camaraderie takes shape and thrives in terms of aesthetic choices. Evident in the glossy radzmir coats, and in: the bombers that through an interplay of zips front and back gain in volume, dropping shoulders and leaving the torso free; the black lace tuxedos that enjoy the dual option of having either a black & blue lace shirt or a leather polo underneath. Also in: the black lace and the fake leopard fur coats, the diagonal-rib gabardine business pants, the shiny oversize parkas with sheepskin padding.
«It’s a male journey into a wardrobe that’s been recast,» Alessandro Dell’Acqua concludes. Accomplished with the chromatic decisiveness of black, gray and navy blue, offset at times by sporadic flashes of red, green, camel. Accompanied by sailor satchels and tote bags in glazed poplin, in soft nappa leather, in patent leather. Complete with printed logo or, new this season, a logo jacquard.
Fri, January 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
FADE IN: CINECITTÁ STUDIOS – SOUND STAGE 10
The ruins of Caracalla baths comme discotheque as imagined from Fellini’s La Dolce Vita set the scene for the Moschino Womens Prefall and Mens Fall collection. Harringbone tweed coats embroidered with Latin lettering resemble ancient chiseled tablets pierced with deep red and golden yellow satin sashes, ruffles and bows mixing staunch menswear staples with the elegance and drama of couture evening gowns.
Amongst the cast of characters, there are nods to Fellini archetypes found in a variety of films: Satyricon, 8 ½, Casanova, Roma and La Dolce Vita. Roman mythological creatures and Latin inscriptions are resurrected for a red and blue scarf print of regal proportions. Centurion armour re-approached and mixed with eveningwear for women and sportswear for men.
Opulent court gowns from Italian nobility are shortened, cropped, dissected into a bodice and separate cage skirt touching upon another note in the Fellini oeuvre. Tracksuits adorned with jewels and intricate tarnished metallic gold embroidery create embellished “bones;” showing ribcages and femurs.
Flourish and flair mix and mingle with deconstructed “off duty” showgirls fringed in tiered beading then juxtaposed against duffels and bombers; padded, quilted and remixed to add an unexpected drab military foil to all that glamour.
Are they extras between scenes running in their period costumes with their own parka layered for warmth? Are they doing double duty filming scenes in two different époques?
Exaggerating the frivolity and sensibility at the same time, it needs not make sense as it seeks not that. It only seeks to inspire and intrigue. It is surreal. It is cinema. It is Fellini. It is Moschino.
Thu, January 17 2019 » Fashion Blog