Mon, February 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
JEREMY SCOTT FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
For his Fall/Winter 2019 collection, Jeremy Scott collaborates with the artist Aleksandra Mir who created hand-drawn blown up renderings of tabloid covers straight from the New York Post and New York Daily News. Scott believes that we are mired in the onslaught of sensational and earth-shattering headlines: we are witnesses, victims, and perpetrators of the unending news cycle.
Scott uses this stark and blatant imagery as a rebuttal to our collective obsession with salacious headlines, false scenarios and click bait drama that incite tensions and ultimately divide us – not only in the political sphere, but in pop culture as well. Scott transforms these striking headlines into clothing that mirrors the frenetic hyper overload of breaking news that inundates our daily life.
The Black and White palette further reinforces the graphic nature of the collection, and silhouettes are outlined and defined by the headlines. Soft and fluid vinyl, blazing headlines, is fashioned into trenches and full skirted dresses, superimposing words upon words and creating new meanings.
Fitted bustiers give way to multi layered featherweight tulle skirts – again transparency and layering playing a significant role in the ensemble. Distressed denim and leather are emblazoned with verbiage and Scott takes something as delicate and beautiful as Swarovski crystal mesh and masks this precious material with bold graphics.
He paints the seesawing economy of yesterday in leather, the catastrophes of today in chiffon, tomorrow’s scandals in sequins, silks and tulle, all the while maintaining an aggressive edge to express the wonder and horror of our times.
Wed, February 13 2019 » Fashion Blog
Thu, February 7 2019 » Fashion Blog
LOUIS VUITTON FALL WINTER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
The collection
Imagine a boy born in the 1950s, raised in the humble surroundings of Indiana. Imagine that boy fifty years on, evolved into the most recognisable and universal symbol of unity on the planet. There once was a boy, who saw the human nature we all take for granted with different eyes and transformed it into the most captivating ideas on Earth.
A boy whose prodigious talent catapulted him into unparalleled fame; whose boyhood, teen-age and adulthood unfolded before the eyes of the world. He was ever-present: a living, breathing, gradually evolving reference for the personal development experienced by every human being.
But this boy was larger than life. Through his mesmerising theatre, he brought together his audiences around the world in all their diversities, giving them a single beacon to which they could all relate. His art existed on a level accessible to all, drew on entities familiar to all, yet far exceeded the social impact of any other artist. Moving through the stages of life, the way we all do, he was compelled to constantly alter reality.
A footstep turned into gravity-defying dance, a sigh mutated into a throbbing beat, and every normal object around him was gilded in a new light. His only initial privilege was his talent: a superhuman ability to elevate everyday life and give its components new meaning. Through his ingenious lens, an ordinary wardrobe comprised of the staples familiar to us all became extraordinary; every jacket, glove, sock and hat fashioned into an instrument of awe.
From the swaddling garments of boyhood to the outgrown silhouettes of adolescence, the boy’s understanding of dress evolved on a public platform. Through his life, the boy established a wardrobe at once out-of-this-world and familiar to all. His life would become the only recorded study of a man’s sense of dress from boyhood through adulthood to play out on a globally observed stage. But this boy would become an example of multiplicity far beyond his own control.
Maturing in front of the world, his look grew remarkably differentwith age. By destiny, and his advancing sense of identity, he became a culturally indefinable phenomenon: a universally relatable marvel: Every person on Earth could mirror themselves in him. Every child and adult cheered for him. Lightyears ahead of his time, the boy inspired a cultural revolution that still reverberates today. That boy once walked among us. Michael Jackson was here.
The show
The Fall-Winter 2019 set, visualised in the image of the streets of New York City, features a live installation by graffiti artists JIM JOE, LEWY BTM and FUTURA. An original soundtrack, You Know What’s Good, is composed and performed live by DEVONTÉ HYNES aka BLOOD ORANGE along with MIKEY FREEDOM on vocals, HART on bass, and JASON ARCE on saxophone and flute.
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
KENZO FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
At a time when the movement of peoples and the spread of cross-cultural dialogue marks our daily lives more than ever, our interest in telling personal stories at KENZO has never felt more appropriate. For the Fall-Winter 2019 collection, our focus turned to Humberto’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage – the Tusán people whose ancestors arrived from Guangdong province to settle in Peru in the 19th century. Today they number in the millions, and the diffusion of Asian traditions throughout South America is a palpable force.
This rich and colorful exchange of stories mixes with the contemporary realities of alpine life, as extreme conditions see both men and women layering bright, ethnic textiles with modern tactical garments. In our interpretation, the drama of the Andean colour palette (from Cusco to Machu Picchu) meets piles of fuzzy texture and a touch of Parisian sophistication. Couched in the Ayahuasca dreamscape show set by the artist Pablo Amaringo, this collection invokes discovery and exploration through mind, body, and spirit.
Within the women’s collection, hiking gear has an overt feminine twist, as swirling polar fleece comes tailored and swathes of waterproof nylon are given soft volume and drape. Inspired by the import of rice into Peru, knitwear and recycled raffia pieces feature custom KENZO calligraphy, and an archive ‘Earth’ print returns under the cover of clouds.
Pollera and pencil skirts receive the technical treatment, traced with drawstrings and paired with zipped mock-necks or patch-pocket blouses in tonal ensembles. Papery leather shines in roomy parka and anorak shapes, whilst shaggy jacquard faux-furs create wood print and blanket plaid effects. 5-pocket jean and cropped cargos are cut in winter wools or acid-washed denim.
Menswear takes the road less traveled, keeping in mind the military trappings of early explorers. Transformable all-weather outerwear pieces feature harness collars, reversible mesh linings, and detachable pocket gloves. A membrane coating gives pop tailoring extra bounce, as zip-up polar fleece returns in roomy quilted jogging pants (mimicked elsewhere by luxe striped shearling). Worn with plaid felt overcoats and checkered crew knits, straight canvas trousers zip-off in color-blocked panels. In the same way, a three-pocket bag zips out into backpack, tote, and fanny pack shapes.
Blinking from a resin bijoux ‘eye’ clasp, our new KENZO Tali double flap bag is unveiled for the season in a rainbow of colors and crafted in stamped lizard and faux croc leathers or oval ‘eye’ quilting. Held in the hand, on the shoulder, or worn cross-body, it comes printed with the season’s KENZO rice bag motifs and swings with sunglass cases or shaggy shoulder straps.
For men and women, footwear styles see town and country collide, with laced Inka trekking boots and mesh sneakers lifted on stacked soles. Women’s Lima kitten heels fuse faux fur under plastic, whilst squared boots lace up the calf with a scuba sock insert.
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
ACNE STUDIOS FALL WINTER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
“I wanted to imagine our own counter-cultures which then morph together, with their own ways of living and surviving” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
The collection explores counter-culture as a way of being. Outsiders from different fields – academics, anarchists, bohemians, off-grid pioneers – are gathered then mixed, as if to build a new community.
Their clothing takes on its own individuality and character. These men have a magpie attitude to style, a look that is both practical and romantic. The wardrobe brings together seemingly disparate elements that, together, makes fresh sense.
Jersey tops have purposefully imperfect ribbing, patched with images from the classic anatomical textbook Gray’s Anatomy. Chunky knit snoods have fringes so long they almost touch the floor.
Tweed coats are woven in wool and cotton to give crispness. Cowhide coats are left their natural shade in places, elsewhere dyed vivid brights.
Jacquard tops are woven in patterns like football kits from another era. An alternate football shirt pattern is printed on a bohemian hoodie and coat, made from wool woven with polyester.
Cashmere boucle cardigans have been washed, and are worn loose as an outer layer. Pants have fastenings like dungarees that can be worn folded open.
Tailoring in jersey cuts close to the body, with small flowers trapped in the see-through buttons. Other long silhouette suiting has Lycra for added stretch.
Ponchos are knitted as if from loose threads trapped in fabric, with fringing only on the front.
A sweater has loose yarns trapped under a layer of sheer pink nylon, as if all could be unravelled.
Hiking boots supercharged soles, while rubber industrial boots are perfect for surviving the elements. Multi-pocket body bags are extremes of functionality.
Brooches trap flowers in resin, as if pressed in a book. Spherical cutaway jewelry are as if the symbols of a new society.
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
SACAI FALL WINTER 2019 MENSWEAR + WOMEN’S PRE-FALL COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Men’s 2019 Autumn & Winter / Women’s 2019 Pre Autumn collection
Applying the notion of a cultural melting pot to sacai’s signature hybrid splicing, mixing references freely and with ease. Celebrating togetherness and “freedom of being” that’s symbolised by experiences in London’s legendary Bar Italia – the setting for exchanges and social cross-pollinations, with no boundaries self-imposed by a need for tribal belonging – and applying that mindset to familiar clothing archetypes.
A sharper take on menswear. Inverting the importance of “dressing to belong” sacai-style, juxtaposing references in celebration of the idea that we should have the freedom to be different, to be an individual. The familiar formality of a trench coat, subverted with leopard print; classic flannel pants hybridised with performance leggings; a single breasted suit tailored from sports performance fabric.
Playing with silhouette through construction and disrupting the layers associated with traditional outfit building. Inverting coats so that the liner becomes a pumped up outer layer; a sweater traditionally worn under a jacket instead becomes its outer shell; a college scarf integrated into a primitive jacket becomes the detail that entirely changes the silhouette. A feminine blouse is left undone, save for its scarf which serves to make a new shape and proportion. Mixing the utility of sports fabrics with the femininity of tulle and lace. Houndstooth spliced with herringbone; ladylike tweed with biker.
Sacai eyewear by NATIVE SONS adds a new dimension to a familiar form.
Custom beaded-designed Beats X wireless earphones by audio brand Beats by Dr. Dre.
Nike x Sacai LDV/Daybreak, Blazer/Dunk – two hybrid styles in a new monochrome palette.
Bar Italia x Sacai tees and hoodies.
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
