FEMME, story of a leader |Metro – Himalayan style
The A/W 15-16 femme chooses the Indian Himalayas, a place where cultural references often give way to impositions and subordination.
Stylistic disobedience. This irreverence is the starting point of looks where the woman seizes, interprets and usurps moments of masculine routine, such as the off-limits territory of a barbershop, and rises in this opulent setting with the dignity of a gentleman’s club.
This ignites an invasive encounter between genders, with extremely feminine shapes espousing and overlapping with potent masculine forms, disregarding any act of courtesy that would adjust overlooking the courtesy of adapting to create a gentle silhouette.
The encounter is direct, even violent – any attempt to achieve compromise and find middle ground is annihilated as the extreme SHE opposes the extreme HE. This isn’t an identity game, but the awareness of the changeable nature of things.
The Himalayan yak, polyvalent cornerstone and vital resource for the whole community, transforms into a pop symbol, with its gaudy and lively decorum adorning the collection, from overcoats to socks to ribbed wool.
Inspired from the high altitude landscapes is the heterogeneous layering of fabrics and shapes: a functional process rooted in nomadic culture, which initially deceives with its sense of randomness and is immediately unmasked by its high aesthetic quotient. Stylistic anarchy is evidenced in the sudden accumulation of volume and knotted belts.
Originally worn over festive dresses, belts are now seen as passe partout, in various fabrics and colors, to wear on sweaters or overcoats. Wool garments are worn across shoulders.
Hand-painted metal bracelets move from the woman’s wrist to instead be worn on the arm and over the coat sleeve. The final touch is brought to Stella Jean’s woman, as she is crowned Maharaja with a wool turban, embellished with excellent embroidery, and adorned with jewelry depicting the elements of Moghul tradition.
Garments and elements characterized by an individual genesis acquire meaning only through their combination. Styling is the key narrative element of the story. Styling organises the narrative thread: with each item being a word that is carefully placed in a sentence to tell the collection’s story.
In an effort to highlight the beauty, skill and craftmanship of cultural and artisanal productions by populations from around the globe, the collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre (agency of the UN and the WTO) moves forward.
Indeed, it has enabled the introduction of handloom fabrics made by women artisans in Burkina Faso and Mali and jewelry realised by Haitians artisans.
An exemplary aesthetic, ethical and social encounter in which India, England, Italy, Burkina Faso and Haiti dialogue at a fast pace.
Mon, May 11 2015 » Fashion Blog
Revolution and harmony: dreaming of femininity
In the Just Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection, a woman’s desire for freedom meets the formal balance of Bauhaus, creating an imaginary place where the warmth of romance and the formality of techno merge.
The silhouettes have a pure, functional design; lines are slim and slightly flared for miniskirts, or diluted and open for dresses, while the woven profiles of velvet coats blend wide lapels with tall collars and feather embroidery. The tight-fitting shirts are in lace, with fur-edged collars. Both the waistcoats in shearling and feathers and the bomber jackets and aviator jumpsuits in silk cady and lace reveal details that are modern yet feminine at the same time.
Untreated wools with a pavé of micro-studs and jacquard with coppered plaques prevail for knitwear, lit up by vanisè lurex and optical-art prints, which also feature on outerwear and trousers. Brocades with Bauhaus inspiration and lightweight patterns of stems and fronds turn into a flight of fading feathers, in embroidery and prints. Showy zips cut through the revolutionary spirit of the collection with sharp geometrics, framed by long angora scarves.
Warm shades such as rust, lead grey, mustard and deep blood red add depth to the lines. Old rose, orange, green and bright airforce blue play with layers and colour filling and variations on a theme of white.
Bags in nappa, velvet or applied ostrich are semi-rigid in three different sizes. Architectural designs also for the ankle boots with column heel, in suede, pony or croc print in plain or patchwork colourways.
Mon, May 11 2015 » Fashion Blog
Orderly disorder. Geometry as rhythm, pattern, movement. Rodolfo Paglialunga works around an idea of broken precision for the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Focusing on timeless staples, he creates an open esthetic code that can be further, individually interpreted.
The silhouette is vertical and tall, with a gentle slouch. Outfits come together jaggedly, with remarkable nonchalance. Instinct guides effortless gestures. The fur coat is casually thrown over satin slacks and a pullover. Tailored jackets draw a lean long line which ends in cropped trouser-skirts. The liquid belted coats have the sophisticated flow of a robe. Tunics are worn over pants.
The neck is always covered by cut-out turtleneck collars, highlighted by a ruche, creating a grammar of shy seduction. The constant tension of straight lines and diagonals is visually engaging. It generates movement: double-breasted closures, outsized mannish checks that draw lines and grids on tailored pieces.
Geometries run rhythmically, further breaking the apparent order: bold stripes and lines on tops and knitted pieces, taped deconstructed checks on coats. Brushed carpet textures and knit robe de chambre cardigans with double-face intarsia provide the displaced warmth of elegant domesticity.
Materials are firm and precious: double-faced cashmere, textured wools, satin. The color palette is proper, with summery ruptures: tones of blue, dark green, white and black are interspersed with dashes of pale pink, yellow, turquoise.
Accessories strengthen the idea of complex precision. Stack-heel lace-ups and boots are constructivist sums of suede, leather, brushed calf. Geometric patterns swarm on boots, matching the outfits. Shoulder bags are functional, the neatness of the design highlighted by bold lining contrasts.
Sun, May 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
Good taste can turn to the constricting norm. Bland, suffocating. Errors and mistakes are a sign of personality, instead. Diana Vreeland docet.
Lou Lou de la Falaise, Fulco di Verdura, Sicilian baroque: the obsession for extreme ornamentation. Artisan touch as a creative imprint. Color, without modesty.
Madonnas and stray cats. Clashes, asymmetries, warped ladylike royalty. Imperial magnificence and trash, no holds barred.
From one extreme to the other, but never back: bright and black, short and long, strict and opulent. Punk: a state of mind, in a Venetian palazzo.
Rebellion and bourgeoisie. Mannish tailoring, grand gowns, endless contrasts. Beauty that stems from Fausto’s celebration of his, and his woman’s individuality.
Sat, March 14 2015 » Fashion Blog
Sat, March 14 2015 » Fashion Blog
An Italian collection that epitomizes and encapsulates a heritage rich with art, literature, natural beauty, life philosophy, and superior aesthetic. The Alberta Ferretti FW 2015-16 collection utilizes this historic culture to build and portray Italian excellence in the 21st century.
“I started thinking about the importance of imagery in contemporary culture, and how communication now largely takes place through images shared on social media. This brought me back to the Italian Renaissance when portraits could convey the era of society.
Culture was described so richly with contexts and meanings that are still remembered and commemorated today. These portraits inspired the collection’s materials and elaborate embroideries as well as my ideal woman of authentic, yet modern, beauty” declares Alberta Ferretti.
The collection starts from an aesthetic that is valorized by history, the base of all modernity. Developed through long and short dresses, skirts, jackets, coats, and feminine, refined furs, the fabrics are extraordinarily manually embellished with clean lines and contained volumes.
The shirts are born in white chiffon, white organza and enriched with lace, silk or mohair inserts. Contrasting materials such as tweed with lurex, gobelin and brocade for the mini dresses, coats and jackets. The long, chiffon gowns with tapestry or mosaic inspired prints gain a striking, graphic quality. The furs are light, just like the shearling coats and jackets.
The dresses are adorned with handcrafted velvet tridimentional embroideries or come in white chiffon or transparent silk plumetis. Both are light and precious, just like the mohair woven organza, used for the small blouses, dresses, ruched mini skirts and long, featherweight coats.
A true Alberta Ferretti collection that through sartorial excellence, beauty, and precious materials transposes the immense Italian heritage onto fashion.
Fri, March 13 2015 » Fashion Blog
Wed, March 11 2015 » Fashion Blog
Tue, March 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall/Winter 2015 Women’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 9th March 4.30pm. The fashion show will mark the debut of Nadège Vanhee – Cybulski, new Artistic Director of the ready to wear woman Hermès. Stay Tuned!
Photo credit: Inez and Vinoodh
Tue, March 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fabrics: English fringed suede, Durham quilts and sheer English lace, mirror textiles, whipstitched suede.
Colours: Indigo, red, burgundy, teal, ochre.
Silhouettes: Ponchos, capes, trench coats, cabans, top coats, tailored and fitted outerwear, long high-waist dresses, short A-line dresses.
Prints: Paisley and floral bohemian prints inspired by Durham quilts, patchwork prints, animal and camouflage printed lace, House check.
Accessories: The Burberry Bucket Bag in English suedes, animal print, camouflage. House check and fringe, Clutches, Ponchos in cashmere. The Burberry Long Fringe Scarf in check cashmere, the Ponytail boot in suede fringing and studs, the Burberry Round. Shades.
Sun, March 8 2015 » Fashion Blog