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BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Balmain Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris

Balmain© Copyright 2019

We don’t praise female trouble-makers nearly enough. Yes, of course, the fashion world adores nonconformists. We’re inspired by the greats that have beautifully rebelled artistically or sartorially. Season after season, we channel the spirit of rockers who have never given a damn and style icons with signature attitudes.

But my runway today celebrates a different, invigorating and new type of rebellious spirit, one adopted by increasing numbers of today’s young women. For inspiration, my team and I look to the self-assured women of my generation, who demand control and are not content to simply push back instead, they revel in pushing forward, (while also pushing every single button along the way).

This new attitude might have had its origins in the recent necessity of donning new defensive armor for battles that we had hoped were already won, but it has rapidly evolved, as our young rebelles grow increasingly aware of their own great power, celebrate their strong voices and demand to be heard.

This collection riffs upon that fresh, fierce resolve, that demand for control and love of bold action. And, just as today’s trouble-makers have shown us, first impressions sometimes fool those who haven’t yet wised up. So, train your eyes look past the feminine and flouncy skirts, the sensual tops and the Easter-egg pastels and focus on the underlying new spirit of this collection.

The tough-girl vibe is sometimes easily spotted and, just as often, cleverly hidden. Examine the expertly quilted leather skirts, for example, and what may at first appear to be a repeating pattern reveals itself as spiky, menacing studs. Yes, there are flowers but fashioned from patent-leather, they add a dark toughness that’s perfect for this rebellious mood.

Throughout, the mastery of the Balmain atelier is always evident. Eager to build upon learnings from couture, our craftsmen continue to push me in new directions, urging me to bend the rules that they’ve mastered so well. This runway relies on surprising deconstructions, sculptural shapes, incredible tailoring, skilled leatherwork and extreme embellishments.

I’m proud of my entire team’s efforts, as we’ve worked to ensure that our creations match the level of daring of today’s trouble-makers.

 

Balmain Fashion Show FW 2019
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Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog

DRIES VAN NOTEN FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Dries van Noten Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris
Dries van Noten Fashion Show FW 2019

 

INSPIRATIONS
“Rose is a Rose is a Rose is a Rose” Gertrude Stein from her poem ‘Sacred Emily’ 1913. A rose as a person or an emblem of beauty, a power in delicacy. Snapshots of garden flowers in the Dries van Noten garden in October 2018 – their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand-held background evident.

From German Expressionism to the sublimation of the mundane in the study of human attitude and gesture in the work of Pina Bausch. Prints are frank, avoiding whimsy, fancy and romance. Pure Lines, range from the manly and austere, feminine and couture, day to evening to and the swaddling to structured.

FORM
Evoking 1940′s and 50′s couture, men’s tailoring. Amplified forms, details and lines contrast with the precision of tailoring. All from the freer forms of voluminous quilting to precise and considered garment structures.

COLOURS
A spray of greys, graphite, slate, charcoal, metals, burnished to gleaming, pewter, petrol. Hues of distilled pastels, rose, citrus, powdery mauve, fawn, eau-de-nil, duck eg blue, neon orange, gold, oxblood, imperial yellow.

FABRICS
From diaphanous and veiling to structured and classic. Chiffon, pinstripes, felts, matt to shimmering, faux fur.

PRINT
Photographs of flowers in Dries’ personal garden, October 2018, their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand held background visible … 50 varieties of Rose, Salvia, 3 varieties of Delphinium, Acer Palmatum, Kniphofia Rooperi, 3 Varieties of Dahlia.

ACCESSORIES
High boots, Lucite Heels, flower photographs, neon faux fur stoles, over size bags.’Big-eye’ sunglasses.

COLLABORATION ON STOCKINGS
Stockings developed with Fogal for this collection exclusive to Dries van Noten in shades of cassis, stone, wild berry and light blue.

 

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Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog

MUGLER FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Mugler Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris
Mugler Fashion Show FW 2019

 

Swirling with otherworldly promise, the Fall Winter 2019 collection by Casey Cadwallader for Mugler vibrates with a savage alchemy – implanting magnificent architectures with a primal and aerodynamic elegance. In a call-and-repeat of decadent pattern and incisive structure, the silhouette pulses with complex densities and controlled volume. In acid and earth tones, mercurial graphic studies read animal, vegetal, and mineral.

Warping through a marbled stratum of natural stimuli, mixed media textiles soften the innate sharpness of turbo-charged tailoring in a macro-dose of tapestry, amoebic florals, and stained-glass leather. From chaotic patchwork to blurred print, silk georgettes and cloque wool jacquards create ruched incrustations in curving ‘trap’ dresses, as panelled columns cascade with fringed volants.

Peplum coats and zipped dolman blousons evolve hourglass shapes and bonded finishes, their flare echoed by smocked taffeta and compression corsetry built into flounced jersey dresses. Worn over snap-stud cargos and bootcut trousers, second-skin separates are embroidered in splashes of Mako beading or embossed with contoured stripes. The season’s organic energy is reflected in caged resin jewellery and the sleek construction of spoked spiral pumps or patent wedge cuissards.

“On the occasion of my second-ever Mugler show, I’d like to take the opportunity to congratulate Manfred Thierry Mugler on the opening of the retrospective exhibition this week at Musée des Beaux Arts in Montreal. Celebrating the past and present of Mugler as a duality of nostalgia and progress is truly important to me, and this exhibition pays to testament to Mugler as a beacon of culture, diversity, and innovation.”

— Casey Cadwallader, creative director of Mugler

 

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Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog

AFTERHOMEWORK FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Afterhomework Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris
Afterhomework Fashion Show FW 2019

 

We started without even knowing where we were going. Pierre Soulages said “It is what I do that teaches me what I am looking for”. This is the résumé of our creative process.

Rap, Street, Radio, Social networks, TV, our inspiration comes from what is happening around us: All of this inspires for next season a silhouette mixing streetwear and Couture techniques with a futuristic eye. We are only focused on the future.

Colors of the collection: Paris on a dark and stormy night. Materials: Poor materials, cotton stitched, wool, nylon, corduroy, rope, K-way. Silhouettes: Daily clothes whose volume has been reworked. Some subtle touches of feminity.

 

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Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog

SAINT LAURENT FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Saint Laurent Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris
Saint Laurent Fashion Show FW 2019

 

The sharp and couture-refined tailoring gives Anthony Vaccarello’s silhouettes a distinct and graphic elegance. Sculptural lines, inspired by the eighties, recall the sophisticated and liberated spirit of Betty Catroux, Bianca Jagger and Catherine Deneuve, iconic muses of the house.
Following the strict geometry, the Opium myth of red and gold embroideries turns into new dynamic shapes in precious materials.
For the finale, in the mirrored kaleidoscopic show set, a black light unveils the contemporary, effortless aspect of Saint Laurent’s soul.

“Everything starts from the shoulder construction. The graphic sculptural tailoring gives a sharp sophistication to the liberated impulse of desire” Anthony Vaccarello

 

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Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog

DIOR FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Dior Fashion Show FW 2019 Paris

Dior© Copyright 2019

Each new collection is an alchemy born of the confrontation between images, bodies, silhouettes and language. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, this creative mechanism is no longer about breaking with the past; rather, it’s a gateway to rediscovering and celebrating the richness of House codes.

For this ready-to-wear collection, the Artistic/Creative Director turned her attention to Teddy Girls, the female counterpoint to Teddy Boys – one of the first British subcultures – as a way of revisiting the 1950s, a post-war period marked by Christian Dior’s New Look that Maria Grazia Chiuri has seldom explored before. The queens of a ravaged landscape, Teddy Girls were impertinent characters with wild quiffs who wore Edwardian-style men’s jackets with velvet scarves, ample skirts, jeans and black leather jackets.

These references offer a new perspective on the 1950s, which Maria Grazia Chiuri chose to associate with the character of Princess Margaret. Ever the rebel, the young princess in 1951 elected to wear a dress by Dior – rather than one by a British dressmaker – for her official 21st birthday portrait photographed by Cecil Beaton. Fascinated by the mix of classicism and subversion, elegance and rebellion inherent in English culture, Christian Dior drew from it many sources of inspiration, as illustrated by the exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, now at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. One by one, Maria Grazia Chiuri reclaims Dior codes, drawing in turn from its lexicon to create and reinvent the designs of tomorrow.

Thus, the Bar suit is revisited along a more masculine line, through cut, fabric and a velvet collar. It converses with gathered skirts made suppler through the use of technical fabrics that are also worked into dresses inspired by Christian Dior’s nipped-waist silhouettes. A conceptual and stylistic reinterpretation of the Fifties infused with the spirit of “sportswear”, mixed with the House’s signature elegance.

The first in a series of historically referenced themes, the black leather jacket by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior – an homage to the underground culture of the 1950s and 1960s, and particularly to the French “blousons noirs” – is here revisited by Maria Grazia Chiuri.Through the modernity of its materials and techniques, the iconic silhouette of the Miss Dior dress – which Christian Dior designed for the Spring-Summer 1949 haute couture collection – expresses the mix of strength and grace the Artistic Director favors. This inspiration also informs evening dresses composed of bodysuits and skirts that may be embroidered with transparent paillettes or embellished with flowers in relief. Low-heeled shoes are tapered and cut low in front. A new palm tree version of Toile de Jouy recalls the work of the artist Mario Schifano, and appears on a series of shirts or combines with checks and gingham, in black and red or black and white.

“Subcultures” confirm – through the style sense they appropriate – that the simple fact of choosing one’s clothes becomes a political semaphore. Silkscreened t-shirts pay homage to the literary works of Robin Morgan, the American feminist poet, with elements from Sisterhood is Powerful (1970), Sisterhood is Global (1984) and Sisterhood is Forever (2003), which celebrate the concept of sorority.The show’s scenography relies on ABCs – with each letter representing a different woman – created by the Italian artist Tomaso Binga, a woman who chose a masculine pseudonym as a way of parodying the privileges reserved to men alone. In so doing, the pieces in the collection reconnect with an idea of femininity that transcends gender and anatomy, and further the exploration of identity that Maria Grazia Chiuri champions in her reinterpretation of Dior’s history.

 

Dior Fashion Show FW 2019
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Thu, February 28 2019 » Fashion Blog

BACKSTAGE MOSCHINO FW 2019-20 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Backstage Moschino Fashion Show 2019 Milan
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Wed, February 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

MOSCHINO FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Moschino Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Moschino Fashion Show FW 2019
GAME SHOW

“Fashion, come on down!” This season Jeremy Scott invites you to the Moschino Game Show. Win big! With so much fun, no one leaves empty-handed, it’s an unabashedly joyful exercise in super-camp fun. Yes, you could win a trip to Aspen. Maybe a brass bedroom set. How about a new washer-dryer? Or even the grand prize… a brand new car! As your host for this evening says:

“It’s a bold, technicolor escape from reality that you look forward to at the end of the day. There’s a reason that game shows are beloved by millions of people around the globe, with as much variety as there are people. ”Survey says… Jeremy, you are correct! Our lovely models will be teasing some highly desirable fashion prizes tonight. So let’s take a look at what you could pre-order!

The daily grind is just a state of mind…. Our decadently cut dresses, embellished and jewel-adorned gowns, overlay prints of high impact household product packaging. From cleaning materials to breakfast cereals – with artisan-applied panels and stripes of sequin and crystal – are designed to make you feel like you’ve won life’s jackpot. For dress-down days, there are variations in denim.

The soignee shapes carry over into a suite of high-impact gowns – in fabrications running from gold and embroidered silk organza to starburst sequin – fit for high-rollers of every persuasion. This is a collection of grand dreams, spectacular fantasies, bright lights and extravagant prizes; the perfect fit for this seasons Met moment.

Here on the Moschino Game Show, everyone goes home a winner. Then there are the fabulously cut and draped silk jersey dresses in bold color that come heaped with jeweled necklaces and jeweled cut-out panels – finery fit for daytime TV or a night extravaganza. Slot machine prints, gold dollar sign denim and leather and coin print dresses are all on the money – big bucks, no whammies.

Gold and platinum biker jackets come fringed with precision-cut chandelier crystals. You could walk away with a floor-length (faux) fur, complete with (faux) fox face – deal or no deal? And for an extra bit of luck we’ve recruited the Good Luck Trolls for a series of dresses and (faux) furs decorated with game board panels. So, will you win big? Wear Moschino, and you already have.

 

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Wed, February 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

ANTONIO MARRAS FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Antonio Marras Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan

Antonio Marras© Copyright 2019

 

Antonio Marras Fashion Show FW 2019
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Wed, February 27 2019 » Fashion Blog

GIORGIO ARMANI FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Giorgio Armani Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Giorgio Armani Fashion Show FW 2019

 

Rhapsody in Blue

Interior, night. For the first time, Armani/Silos is hosting a runway show in the setting that encapsulates and summarises the work of Giorgio Armani. Feminine figures, slim and slender like pencil strokes, move throughout the rooms together with strong yet graceful men.

In what they wear, they are complementary expressions of the same vision, united through the colour blue: deep and vibrant, the Armani shade par excellence pervades everything, defining a timeless, velvety elegance that is perfectly balanced. The female silhouette is elongated and curvaceous, sketched with short jackets close-fitting at the bust, trousers with curved edging, pencil coats and draped blousons.

Collars disappear, and asymmetrical markings sweep over the pieces like brush strokes, adding a sense of motion to the figure, along with an interplay of inlay work. The effect of movement is also suggested on the surfaces, which are covered in photographic prints of knots and drapery, enlarged to the point of becoming abstract.

The eveningwear is lengthened, dazzling and sleek with its sparkling garments, featuring styles as simple as t-shirts or velvet jumpsuits that make a statement with their textural, agile flair. Soft tailoring dominates the men’s collection, while midnight blue velvet adds a sense of depth: the material of choice features in short, compact double- breasted blazers, parkas and coats that are comfortable and enveloping and suggest movement.

The stylistic narrative unfolds, alternating between subdued formality that anticipates the surprise return of the tie, and an equally understated athleticism, where jackets and anoraks are paired with tailored, flowing trousers. Conscious nonchalance is the distinguishing feature – the expression of a vision of masculinity that finds power in elegance.

 

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Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog

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