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MARNI FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Marni Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Marni Fashion Show FW 2019

 

NEUROEROTIK – fantaerotic escape game.

It is time to play, no holds barred, with a free body and free thoughts. This game is all in the head. Will you be able to escape? You have twenty-four hours of time. Being here, reading these instructions makes you all participants to the game, no matter what. The strip game consists of cheerful and solicitous counter-censorship exercises: the more you avoid and deploy it, the easier it will be to run away from the borderless escape room.

Watch out for the women who walk around the space: they are wardens – hand-welded, wrapped in chains and fornicating scarves, in crazy kilts, diamonds like chastity belts and men’s jackets affected by acute femininity.

Engage with them a neuronal hand-to-hand match, activate the erogenous zones and map the new pleasurescapes: the scattered folds will open like curtains, indicating the way. Move. Do not let yourself be deceived: what appears from a distance, is something else up close. Follow what the hormones suggest to you, sabotage every behavior and misdirect respectability. The most frivolous of them all wins. Time to start.

The meeting between two imponderables: the eroticism of body language and the mysterious plan of neuroconnections. An exploration of sensuality, looking, doing away with respectability and censorship. Nothing is as it appears, everything keeps moving. Folds and pleats twist and open on dresses and skirts, or run along scarves that are cutouts of dresses, wrapped around the neck.

Men’s jackets and coats get broken. Engagement rings hold liquid tunics together, while pixelated prints create hypnotic patterns. Fluid languors alternate with martial steadfastness: work uniforms, draping. Endless chains like composite necklaces. Stovepipe boots. Lace-up booties with high plateaus. Capacious bags or small wallets.

 

FW 2019-20 Marni Fashion Show
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Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog

SPORTMAX FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Sportmax Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan

Sportmax© Copyright 2019

MOOD | INSPIRATIONS
For its Fall/Winter 2019-20 collection, SPORTMAX introduces a vision of classicism projected into the future, working on the silhouette. The collection develops a new concept of dynamic feminine and futuristic tailoring, that is also interpreted in the new combination of suits created by mixing two joinable pieces, wearable in multiple ways to become the classicism of the future. Sunglasses, an important new category addition thanks to the exclusive worldwide licensing agreement with Marcolin Group, are characterized by strong shapes, contrasting materials and asymmetrical lines. A new sneaker collection, marked by overlapping layers on the upper in suede, rubber- effect leather and 3-D concentric circles on the soles, delineates a new dynamic shape.

SHAPES | TECHNIQUES | KEY LOOKS
A sense of energy emanates from outwear pieces, from coats to bomber jackets, that defines new volumes through the shoulders, emphasizing the play on curves and contours. Building on the concept of classicism of the future, a part of the brand’s DNA, the collection proposes oversize double-face coats and those with placement stripes, blazers and skirts combine various patterns and materials, the cashmere shearling jacket with back seams and the transformable trench coat, which can be divided into two pieces, mixed and matched with the leather vest, a key garment which can be paired with RTW pieces and knitwear, interplaying and enriching the wardrobe combinations. The sportswear-inspired attitude of lightly padded nylon dresses and matelassé shirts with graphic effects styled with baseball caps complete the look.

COLOURS | MATERIALS
The collection plays on shades of grey with sartorial-inspired fabrics, like pinstripe wool, herringbone and stripes, and delicate colours of nature, which almost announce the arrival of spring: touches of white, beige, sand, light blue and caramel. Crossing materials with one another, wool is mixed with leather to create contrasts between matte and shiny effects. Bright colours on the padded nylon garments and on the printed and patterned knitwear vibrates in stronger hues of rust and bright blue, turquoise and green.

 

Sportmax Fashion Show FW 2019
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Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog

MISSONI FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Missoni Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Missoni Fashion Show FW 2019

 

Stepping into the blue of a chroma key. The color allows the change of the background however one prefers, teleporting characters across eras and places, in a flip.

It’s a stargate, if you like. The Missoni chroma key is a door that connects different moments in the history of a fashion house that’s been active for more than six decades and has endlessly explored every path of knitwear.

The blue door connects the present time with an instant placed on the cusp of the mid seventies, when volumes were long, lean and liquid, and fashion danced around the body.

A time of high waists and elegant elongation; of enveloping coats, flowing capes and hoods. A flip, and the fluctuating lines materialize here and now, into the blue, in a wardrobe of jacquard coats, capes, jumpsuits, suits and dresses, put together with enveloping moves.

The glitter, the shine and the sparkle so defining of that era return, just like the bonnets and the pierrot collars, which however are brought to decisive proportions. The sparkle of lamè carries in the mens wardrobe, where shine, suiting and wide pants rule.

The long élan of Missoni bridging its own present and with its own past follows a clarity that is a matter of line as it is one of surfaces. Color blocks and blown-up jacquards stimulate the gaze in strict yet gentle ways.

The chroma key allows everything to come back. As such, it knows no nostalgia.

 

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Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog

ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Roberto Cavalli Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Roberto Cavalli Fashion Show FW 2019

 

The persistence of memory – how it shapes the present, how it forms the future – inspires the Fall/Winter 2019 Roberto Cavalli collection by creative director Paul Surridge. It evokes memories of Cavalli – not direct references, but reflections. Embracing, celebrating, evolving, it asserts the codes of the house: vibrant colour, a distinct print language, an artisanal touch. Alongside universal ideals of status, allure, beauty and confidence. These too are fundamentally Cavalli.

Clothes move with the body – freedom is confident. The clothes interplay between fitted and draped, a dynamic esprit. Plissé silks ebb and flow, sometimes interrupted with a twist in their precision, and knits cling to contours yet shift in motion. A modern ease. Joie de vivre.

Tailoring is rigorous, sculpting: it defines. A compact silhouette drawn from frock-coats references timeless notions of status, and the structure of tailoring offers dynamic rigour when combined with liquid silks. Menswear relaxes tailoring – here, ease equals power,translating a modern deformalised attitude into sartorial dressing. Mens and womens clothes interchange, exchange. They have a memory of each other.

Cavalli’s key code of animalier is here impressionistic, refracted into a stylised, Modernist tiger print, shadowed, in unexpected colours. It appears as prints across fluid silks, as embroideries that appear painted on the skin, and in intarsia shearlings – abstracted, but always with a memory of its origin. Python is recreated as a hand-drawn pattern in jacquard, or as sequin embroidery keyed close to the body, drawn from archival styles. These are reflected in Art Deco-inspired evening dresses, the memory of the 1920s, a source of inspiration for Cavalli past and present.

The colour palette is rich, embedding subdued tonality with glimmering jewels: midnight navy, black, fresco pastels, porcelain, alongside chartreuse, lagoon-mist blue and bougainvillea.

Accessories are founded in anchors, classics, archetypes. Bags become embellished status symbols carrying “Bold C” hardware; jewellery plays with crocodile scale motifs, like a modern armour. Shoes have strong chiselled toes, on both high-boots and evening mules, balanced on a finely-tooled bevelled gold heel. The same sharp, squared toe appears in menswear, on an elevated ankle-boot – shown alongside the iconic Roberto Cavalli V1PER sneaker.

Throughout, like a heartbeat, is the artisanal touch that defines Cavalli. Delicate embroideries, intricate fabrics, a memory of the human touch. Quintessentially Roberto Cavalli.

 

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Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog

BACKSTAGE SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FW 2019-20 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Backstage Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show 2019 Milan
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Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan

Salvatore Ferragamo© Copyright 2019

“GENERATION”

Family, the cultural continuity between generations, and power – all have been central to the spirit of Salvatore Ferragamo. It is a quiet power that distinguishes the house, a power Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland explore for Autumn/Winter 2019 and figure into the zeitgeist as an antidote to its pervasive unrest. The revelation comes in a kaleidoscopic display of identity and all its nuance: impossible to characterize in one attitude or gesture, their men and women refuse easy definitions and instinctively embrace a politics of togetherness.

Patchworks of suede, nappa, snake and lizard in women’s accessories and ready-to-wear speak to this prevailing notion of multiplicity and allude to Mr. Ferragamo’s ubiquitous multicolor patchwork wedge of 1942. The same symbolic tactic is echoed in archival scarf prints in modern patchwork on silk twill. Fringed cashmere blanket coats, sensual leather robes, sportswear in Japanese technical wool and hand-knit textured sweaters convey a natural, unstudied luxury. The Gancini monogram jacquard, a new signature, visually locates the collection in a place and time without needing to tiredly assert a heritage.

Tailored garments imagined with an outdoor sensibility frame the menswear proposal. Deerskin, corduroy and technical wool gabardine give jackets and outerwear presence and gravitas. Engineered shapes and utilitarian trims are essential features both of design and end-use. The new suit is three-button, soft shouldered, the lapel widened, in traditional British and Italian cloths.

Shoes not only importantly anchor the collection looks; they are the fundamental ingredients of the Ferragamo formula. Sculptural heels appear in bright suedes, nipped-point toe stilettos in satin with hand encrusted rhinestone straps, and pull-on boots in butter calfskin. Nubuck trekking boots and a twist on the classic loafer for men further emphasize the tension between classic and rugged. Handbags in everyday styles are rendered soft and deconstructed in suede and tumbled deerskin or assume singularity as small, handheld objects.

A new creative horizon at Ferragamo begins to come into focus, with a renewed commitment to crafting innovative products for a generation that sees luxury everywhere and nowhere, and for whom inclusion and authenticity rise as beacons of possibility, hope.

 

Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show FW 2019
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Mon, February 25 2019 » Fashion Blog

BACKSTAGE VERSACE FW 2019-20 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Backstage Versace Fashion Show 2019 Milan
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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

VERSACE FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Versace Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Versace Fashion Show FW 2019

 

The Women’s Fall-Winter 2019 Collection explores the house’s codes through a new lens. The dichotomy of luxury and grunge is present on the runway, where rich fabrics feature unfinished hems and looks are adorned with signature Safety Pins. The collection is a celebration of Versace iconography, while contrasting styling elements, fabric innovation and an ode to photography deliver multi-dimensional impact.

Key runway looks pay tribute to Versace’s storied relationship with fashion photography, featuring portraits of Donatella Versace by Richard Avedon. These images are reprised in the Fall-Winter Collection thanks to the support of the Richard Avedon Foundation. The American photographer lensed more than 30 campaigns for Versace over the course of 20 years, beginning with the Spring-Summer 1980 Collection. For the launch of the fragrance Blonde, Avedon created portraits of Donatella Versace in his studio in New York on February 3rd, 1995.

The Blonde campaign, and in particular, the associated fragrance, lent further inspiration to the collection where new prints and embroideries showcase the house’s most distinctive perfume bottles. The print innovation continues in Versace’s colorful trademark style, mixing bold hues with house codes and references to art history. Monuments come to life in vivid tones on the Vittoria print through a bright representation of a statue from London’s National Gallery. An explosion of color celebrates the essence of Versace. Barocco-style V’s feature on silks, lurex jacquards and on the house’s new handbag line, Virtus. Taking its name from the Roman deity, Virtus symbolizes strength, courage, and character. A bold symbol of the brand’s aesthetic heritage, the central Barocco V characterizes the bag.

The conflicting natures of luxury and grunge are revealed in the styling and details of the collection. Quintessential Versace hardware elements like the Greek Key and newly embellished Safety Pins are at the core of this juxtaposition. Cashmere knits are destroyed while raw-cut edges on colorful tweeds are overlaid with top-stitched silk bondage straps. Stockings are paired with slip dresses, faux furs are worn with the gold chains, and leather boots are dramatized with hardware buckles.

“Bold women feel free to stay away from what is expected. With this collection, I wanted to show that side of a woman that isn’t afraid to step outside of her comfort zone because she knows that imperfection is the new perfection.”

– Donatella Versace –

 

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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

MARCO DE VINCENZO FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Marco De Vincenzo Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Marco De Vincenzo Fashion Show FW 2019

 

MY FAVOURITE THINGS

“One of my favorite things in the world is a little ceramic deer from the Forties that I found a few years ago in a small shop. I like it so much, I keep it in a glass case at home: even though it is not precious, it is very precious to me. It’s the same Bambi that I shaped into an invitation to this show. This collection feels very personal: it is filled it with my favorite things. I wanted to celebrate what I like as a designer, what triggers my creativity and makes me love my job. The idea that everything comes together, for instance, even when things are put one next to another for no particular reason but a creative urge. This fateful randomness, which in fact is not randomness, is completely my own, just like the love for lurex, waves, optical motifs; just like the proclivity for macramè, glitter, intensely psychedelic surfaces. I like riffs of the metallic and distorted ladylike. I like velvet and I like a womanly dress, or a very bourgeois ensemble that I twist and turn by way of color, texture or pattern. A touch of kitsch is something I am not afraid of at all. This collection is one hundred percent me, a recollection of the weird and wonderful alphabet of my label, which I launched exactly ten years ago. What is specific and exclusive of this moment is the ease of it all, the pervasive sense of spontaneity. I am feeling light right now. So does my work”.

Marco de Vincenzo

 

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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

ICEBERG FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Iceberg Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Iceberg Fashion Show FW 2019

 

Snow White or Evil Queen? Why chose when you can be both suggests Creative Director James Long corrupting the purity of full white looks with cherry blossom punks in Barbara Cartland pink and garments adorned with gems quite possibly from Disney’s mines.

Basket weave jacquards in Royal blue distort garden flowers and logos in texture and shine on knitted cycling shorts and midi-pencils. A stripe shirt dips into the same graphic while a long dress, thigh split with balloon sleeves is tone on tone. An oversized bondage strapped men’s coat with Dopey on the reverse raises smiles even when you are in Off-to-Work-We- Go mode.

White and cream softness in chiffon and brushed fluff Snow White knitwear are made tough with military inspired garter over-skirts and Artic white denim. Clear sunglasses and roomy padded coats for our pure as snow heroine are available for both men and women.

But bite the apple and embrace your dark side. A new take on a pair from the archive ICEBERG bondage trousers with matching jackets cover punkish brushed sweaters and studded crystal strips (based on the guitar strap of PJ Harvey) light up luxurious tricadi tailoring. White shirts have louche rock star studded collars.

The glitzy neon glow of gems and crystals give a Douglas Leigh LED cityscape over black bodysuits, full length dresses and trousers. The evil Queen, hand drawn and knitted sneers at her reflection in the Linda Farrow for ICEBERG Magic Mirror sunglasses.

High shine plasticised chiffon become Siouxsie tight trousers, boots and the shoulders of jackets where knit has been fused with fabric in a process called agugliatura or needling.

Chaotic yet soft styling with pink oversized cardigan dresses and diaphanous fabrics are layered over sporty bodysuits and shorts. While in a puce DB jacket with matching trousers and chiffon shirt you don’t have to wait for your fairy tale ending: you’ve become your very own Prince.

Special guest on the runway the first ICEBERG x Linda Farrow eyewear collection. The collaboration is a classic sporty silhouette that has been playfully printed with ICEBERG’s strong primary colour stripes and logo. Featuring reflective lenses, black rubberised details and a matt white finish paired with a white knit sports strap.

 

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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

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