It’s the morning after the night before.
The FENDI muse for the Fall/Winter 2017-18 Collection emerges at dawn: a cinematic character pacing the streets of Rome. Framing her free spirit, the graphic heritage of FENDI rises to the fore. Geometric patterns are inspired by Viennese woodblock printing and 18th century Italian papiers dominotés, which come to life in an array of mosaic techniques, from cut-out knitwear to marquetry furs and acanthus leaf-printed silk. Colours exude autumnal warmth: from carmine red like sealing wax to camel, cobalt and petrol blue, optic white or palest blush pink, they highlight the Collection’s decorative, modern hand.
Codes of fine craftsmanship abound – a nipped waist is tucked with a giant ‘X’ appliqué, hemlines are framed in a bold topstitch and encrusted tulle stripes frame collars and cuffs. In felt cashmere, patent leather, Prince of Wales checks and herringbone wools, tailoring is cut with a double shoulder – from a structured plane it drops to create new volumes. That doubled effect evolves throughout as interlocking and overlapping sartorial textiles, FENDI ‘double F’ logo-trims and a layered exercise of cotton shirting and soft A-line skirts. It continues through transparency: sheer dresses are constructed in diamond ruched tulle whilst embroidered spirograph daisies and organza florals embellish long-sleeved gowns, both underpinned with the season’s patent red cuissard boots inset with elastic ribbing.
The Fall/Winter 2017-18 runway show debuts the new Run Away double handle box bag in two tone nappa leather and inlaid python, while the Baguette, Peekaboo and Kan I bags appear in an opulent array of striped python, ‘double F’ logo print and patchwork velvet, striped mink and leather fringe. They are paired with interchangeable Strap You shoulder straps in shaggy fur, jewelled velvet and cut-out autumnal flowers.