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Fall Fashion Woman Jil Sander Collection 2015
Fall Fashion Woman Jil Sander Collection


Orderly disorder. Geometry as rhythm, pattern, movement. Rodolfo Paglialunga works around an idea of broken precision for the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Focusing on timeless staples, he creates an open esthetic code that can be further, individually interpreted.

The silhouette is vertical and tall, with a gentle slouch. Outfits come together jaggedly, with remarkable nonchalance. Instinct guides effortless gestures. The fur coat is casually thrown over satin slacks and a pullover. Tailored jackets draw a lean long line which ends in cropped trouser-skirts. The liquid belted coats have the sophisticated flow of a robe. Tunics are worn over pants.

The neck is always covered by cut-out turtleneck collars, highlighted by a ruche, creating a grammar of shy seduction. The constant tension of straight lines and diagonals is visually engaging. It generates movement: double-breasted closures, outsized mannish checks that draw lines and grids on tailored pieces.

Geometries run rhythmically, further breaking the apparent order: bold stripes and lines on tops and knitted pieces, taped deconstructed checks on coats. Brushed carpet textures and knit robe de chambre cardigans with double-face intarsia provide the displaced warmth of elegant domesticity.

Materials are firm and precious: double-faced cashmere, textured wools, satin. The color palette is proper, with summery ruptures: tones of blue, dark green, white and black are interspersed with dashes of pale pink, yellow, turquoise.

Accessories strengthen the idea of complex precision. Stack-heel lace-ups and boots are constructivist sums of suede, leather, brushed calf. Geometric patterns swarm on boots, matching the outfits. Shoulder bags are functional, the neatness of the design highlighted by bold lining contrasts.


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Jil Sander Man Milano Fashion Week 2015
Jil Sander Man Milano Fashion Week
Precision, ease, intuition. The new Jil Sander Men’s collection is exact and spontaneous.

The codes of the house – pureness, timelessness, a luxurious merging of form and function – are interpreted from a playful angle while keeping true to their essence.

Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga merges the pragmatism of “workwear” with elegant quirks of personality, punctuality and deliberate imperfections, suggesting an individual take on formality that brings the Jil Sander man to new ground.

The silhouette is elongated and easy, with a focus on fabrics and textures. Double-breasted coats have welcoming volumes, while suit jackets exude resistance and sturdiness.

Seamless morphing of sportswear and formality creates subtle hybrids: the anorak is made of double-faced cashmere or compact leather, sweater tops are treated with sartorial dedication, shirts are cut to resemble zip-up blousons.

Compact, protective outerwear is mixed with soft trousers and boxy jumpers.

The precision of the cuts is highlighted by the visual tension of the surfaces: checks, pinstripes and other masculine motifs are altered into rhythmic grids, or sliced into neo-geo intarsia.

Broken suits and unexpected color combinations suggest freedom of interpretation and an easy attitude.

The color palette is considered, with unexpected breaks: masculine tones of grey, black, white, camel, and blue are accented with flashes of mustard, rust, and red.

Fabrics are luxurious and classic: double-faced cashmere, dry suiting wools, compact cotton, and bonded leather.

The utilitarian feel of the accessories, robust boots with lug soles and sturdy closures, round and thick dress shoes, strengthens the message – pragmatic elegance.


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Sun, January 25 2015 » Fashion Blog

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