The brand, while simple on the surface, unravels itself as an extremely complex set of contrasts and nuances. However at the core is a simple concept: soul. Jil Sander is about soul, sensitivity, humanity. It is about quality. It is about essential design and an approach to garments and products that is pure and refined. It is about finding the delicate balance between perfection and imperfection. Most importantly it is an equal part of a life that embraces art, music, film, architecture, spirituality, and consciousness.
Lucie and Luke Meier are honored to present their first runway show for Jil Sander, the brand that has informed their approach to design since their interest began. This is their initial gesture of continuing this approach in their own way.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection, comprised of women’s and men’s looks, demonstrates sensitivity and purity in combination with modern construction and innovation. This contrast is fundamental to what the Meiers want to maintain within their work at the brand, celebrating nature and the human touch while embracing progressive ingenuity. This is precisely why the venue was selected: a work of human creation that frames the magnificence of nature.
A pure palette of whites with navy, camel, and black recalls the house codes, while bright colors gives strength to voluminous knits. The white poplin shirt is revisited in several iterations; new proposals of tailoring construction are demonstrated against light, airy drapes; traditional and functional smock and elastic distortion connect masculine functionality with feminine volumes; handwork is essential to the preciousness of the macramé and embroidered detailing.
The end goal achieved is one that creates an emotion within the clothes. They are created to live in and become a part of real life.
Wed, November 15 2017 » Fashion Blog
A sense of languor pervades the new Jil Sander collection.
The precision and clarity the house is known for are seen from another perspective. As filtered through a lens in soft focus, the straight cuts and commanding purism gain a dryly romantic suppleness, a dreamy nonchalance and a suffused sensuality.
Broken by folds, knots and torsions that create an overall feel of sophisticated precariousness, the silhouette has a vertical ease. Plays of slashes and cut-outs redesign the tailored jacket, offering graphic glimpses of what is underneath.
Fluid satin dresses move around the body with a liquid ease. Impalpable lingerie hints run throughout: pantsuits have the slouch of a pajama, draped dresses coil around the bust like superimposed camisoles.
A twisted nappa dress looks both frail and dangerous. The bias cut is featured profusely, creating diagonal movements and floating forms. Sashes are tied onto dresses, suggesting the spontaneous gesture of knotting.
The languid aura is offset by a series of leather pieces of firm yet painterly precision: to-the-knee coats are closed at the waist with vinyl tubes; halters are studded onto slip dresses, creating an engaging play of contrasting, layered textures. The printed leather coat has an offbeat metropolitan hardness.
The color palette is delicate and pale. Tones of white, light blue, sand and charcoal are accented with notes of rust and deep blue. Materials are sensual to the touch: silk satin, washed jacquard silk, silk duchesse, plongée leather.
Accessories are folded straw hats, shoes with graphic buckle motifs, pendant earrings.
Fri, January 22 2016 » Fashion Blog
Wed, September 9 2015 » Fashion Blog
Orderly disorder. Geometry as rhythm, pattern, movement. Rodolfo Paglialunga works around an idea of broken precision for the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Focusing on timeless staples, he creates an open esthetic code that can be further, individually interpreted.
The silhouette is vertical and tall, with a gentle slouch. Outfits come together jaggedly, with remarkable nonchalance. Instinct guides effortless gestures. The fur coat is casually thrown over satin slacks and a pullover. Tailored jackets draw a lean long line which ends in cropped trouser-skirts. The liquid belted coats have the sophisticated flow of a robe. Tunics are worn over pants.
The neck is always covered by cut-out turtleneck collars, highlighted by a ruche, creating a grammar of shy seduction. The constant tension of straight lines and diagonals is visually engaging. It generates movement: double-breasted closures, outsized mannish checks that draw lines and grids on tailored pieces.
Geometries run rhythmically, further breaking the apparent order: bold stripes and lines on tops and knitted pieces, taped deconstructed checks on coats. Brushed carpet textures and knit robe de chambre cardigans with double-face intarsia provide the displaced warmth of elegant domesticity.
Materials are firm and precious: double-faced cashmere, textured wools, satin. The color palette is proper, with summery ruptures: tones of blue, dark green, white and black are interspersed with dashes of pale pink, yellow, turquoise.
Accessories strengthen the idea of complex precision. Stack-heel lace-ups and boots are constructivist sums of suede, leather, brushed calf. Geometric patterns swarm on boots, matching the outfits. Shoulder bags are functional, the neatness of the design highlighted by bold lining contrasts.
Sun, May 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
Precision, ease, intuition. The new Jil Sander Men’s collection is exact and spontaneous.
The codes of the house – pureness, timelessness, a luxurious merging of form and function – are interpreted from a playful angle while keeping true to their essence.
Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga merges the pragmatism of “workwear” with elegant quirks of personality, punctuality and deliberate imperfections, suggesting an individual take on formality that brings the Jil Sander man to new ground.
The silhouette is elongated and easy, with a focus on fabrics and textures. Double-breasted coats have welcoming volumes, while suit jackets exude resistance and sturdiness.
Seamless morphing of sportswear and formality creates subtle hybrids: the anorak is made of double-faced cashmere or compact leather, sweater tops are treated with sartorial dedication, shirts are cut to resemble zip-up blousons.
Compact, protective outerwear is mixed with soft trousers and boxy jumpers.
The precision of the cuts is highlighted by the visual tension of the surfaces: checks, pinstripes and other masculine motifs are altered into rhythmic grids, or sliced into neo-geo intarsia.
Broken suits and unexpected color combinations suggest freedom of interpretation and an easy attitude.
The color palette is considered, with unexpected breaks: masculine tones of grey, black, white, camel, and blue are accented with flashes of mustard, rust, and red.
Fabrics are luxurious and classic: double-faced cashmere, dry suiting wools, compact cotton, and bonded leather.
The utilitarian feel of the accessories, robust boots with lug soles and sturdy closures, round and thick dress shoes, strengthens the message – pragmatic elegance.
Sun, January 25 2015 » Fashion Blog
Jil Sander © Copyright 2014
Born under the creative direction of Rodolfo Paglialunga, the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2015 collection is a coalescence of genders.
Lines are borrowed from sharp masculine and graceful feminine contours. The result is a re-imagined hybrid of the two. The sum of which ebbs and flows delicately between his and hers to find a harmonic balance.
At the heart are mantras which are an extrapolation of Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss photographer and writer from the 1930’s, who embodied an unconventional and androgynous beauty standard. Her persona was a shift toward elegant indifference, a world traveler and civic pioneer willing to go beyond the norm.
Irreverence for definitions is the conception of beauty that inspires the silhouettes. Layered skirts clad in double gabardine with sheer poplin linings. Clean cut jackets of cotton duchesse, silk and nylon. Asymmetric poplin dresses and oversized bermudas in fil coupé.
Binary lines and geometric jacquards enliven fabrics. Sturdy materials handled with thoughtful intricacy anchor compilations. Officiousness found in utilitarian form and function is muted.
The palette draws on opposites, black with white. Ochre tones, earthy and opaque, stand against steely hues. Sandstone and clay are thrust next to greens oblique with gun-metal grays.
Paired with tensile nappa socks, flat or heeled geometric sandals are hewn from leather and tinted crocodile.
Patchwork leather belts are ensconced with geometric motifs, designed to accentuate and underline the waistline. Re-worked and freshly interpreted satchels, in refined leather, strike between wit and practicality.
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog