Waves with infinite motion sheltered by thè sinuous outlines of mountains. During her long solitary walks to thè lake, Zhu Chongyun, thè visionary creative director and owner of Krizia, envisaged a delicate iconographic bridge between thè East and thè West, between thè ancient hi story ofthe Fashion House and its contemporary and global future. A romantic and sweet concept shaken by Constant interruptions, by discontinuity of style, unexpected colours, thè result of spending lots of time at thè historical archive of Via Womanin in Milan.
The iconic symbols return but without nostalgia or second thoughts. The past is blended into a current version of pure and direct lines that conceal surprises. A continuous, sophisticated reinterpretation of memories that acquire a contemporary vibe. A three-dimensional “haiku” And, even if everyone expects thè usuai tiger, this time it will be a new tiger. A different one.
The Krizia feline is back with a sharp style, printed, jacquard multicolour or lasered leather. It is concealed in fabrics with macro and micro flourishes, with fun camouflage effects. On blouse-sweaters, tank top dresses, laser cut leather and metal accessories, thè Symbol ofan era becomescolourful and pop. Fun and never dull.This isthe Krizia tiger.
And thè same applies to pleats, flounces and rouches, which become a petal on male jackets, a serrated biade on thè shoulder, an over-the-top handkerchief or a side fan tied with a ribbon. Precious details create a fusion between art and fashion, as in thè statuesque evening and cocktail dresses, embellished just like works of art. Waves are repeated and spread throughout thè collection, from thè shoulder strap of a shopping macro pochette in leather or fabric to fiat sabots.
The fabrics used are precious and innovative: wool threads with crisp silk, mohair with organza, stretch and pleats, thè result of cutting-edge technology and many special collaborations with ItaIian master craftsmen. Colours range from soft ice-cream and lake blue to light water blue and iridescent gold, connecting thè East and thè West.
Jorge Luis Borges would love Krizia’s new Zoo, which could perhaps even appear in a new edition of his famous “Book of Imaginary Beings”, which the great writer suggested should be browsed “as if playing with the changing shapes revealed by a kaleidoscope”.
Because this time what we have is a zoo of dream animals, the fruit of unexpected contaminations between different species: a zebra with a giraffe or a tiger, a fox with a Mongolian fur, or marmot, and a even a mink crossed with an original geometric creature.
The result is coats the likes of which have never been seen before, both in the form of furs, and in prints, embroidery or devoré. To get us started a panther-inspired look is mixed with a biker in the very first model, with willowy black leather silhouettes offering an enigmatic image.
Male and female, light and shade, east and west (with a visible samurai influence), blend together in a new interplay of contrasts, a kind of mirror canon.
This is a fashion designed for a proud, feisty woman who is prepared to defend the fragility hidden beneath her symbolic amour, seductive black leather bodices treated like a light cuirass, with laser perforations, interwoven stripes and laces as well as ribbing, plissés and matelassé, creating volume and emphasising the shoulders.
These are straight in fabric garments, round in leather ones, even pagoda-shaped in certain Japanese-inspired armour-accessories, in perforated leather, joined together with metal staples.
Jackets, trouser suits and overcoats draw inspiration from a masculine, sartorial wardrobe – even including a tuxedo – with a feminine interpretation. Close-fitting trousers. Dresses with a couture style, but up-to-the-minute.
The Krizia plissé returns with a new pinstripe that creates an unexpected glow on the crest of a wave or with a diamond pattern or in leather.
Materials: leather, suede, reinvented fur, cashmere, silk, double satin, often with a raw-edged cut, devoré velvet, platinum laminates, all-over embroidery: it’s all about the mix.
Colours: from deep black to platinum, which optical effects, to the softness of dusty beiges, to increasingly bright shades of burgundy, culminating in pillar box red. Evening dress in shiny platinum.
Knitwear features new handmade effects, as well solids and spaces, in a mesh with contrasting yarns in a mix of wool and transparent nylon. Body-hugging full-length tricot overcoats, some with blazing lining; glossy coatings; plissé effects, kaleidoscopic metal; animalier inlays create forms in movement.
Accessories: nodowa gorgets, collars and bracelets in perforated leather, jewel shoes with a 12-cm platinum heel and sparkling decoration in platinum or crystal and imaginary animal-spot motifs. Open boots with light weaves of laces and interlacing, likewise for certain sandals. Rings with geometricized beasts’ heads.
Sobriety, and the odd surprise
Silhouettes grow longer, both in overcoats and in evening dresses, with a mysterious, priestly look (like the long icon-dresses emerging from the shadowy
background of a Piero Pizzi Cannella painting), and certainly suave with their silks and laminates. But all seriousness is soon contradicted by the long splits that reveal the entire length of the leg with each step; by top-stitching borrowed from a more casual wardrobe; by cheeky Mongolian fur shoulders on necklines (o waistcoats); by feisty leather or neoprene bodices; or by a single leather shoulder strap supporting an entire draping.
Shoulders are large and slightly raised (not only in jackets and overcoats, but even in a sheath dress), emphasizing the otherwise close-fitting silhouette, which is further tightened by leather strap harnesses, borrowed from certain types of work clothes; contrasting top-stitching and protective padding give garments a thickness feel, as if they were sculpted.
Cuts are carefully designed to follow the body’s anatomy. Contrasting inverted pleats take us by surprise, even in certain pants.
Other close-fitting trousers feature a low crotch, but there are also some glossy coated tight black jeans. Whimsical leather shoulders on a draped silk dress or on oversized knitwear in kid mohair; snug poncho-scarves; not to be missed is the gold lamé pant suit, a triumph of horizontal plissés.
Materials: this winter’s denim features contrasting top-stitching, ennobled by combining it with cashmere. Wools. Plenty of Mongolian fur in sleeves, gaiters, collars, shoulders, shrugs and even bags. Kid mohair, lamé, viscose, knitwear with fisherman’s ribbing. Silk, cady, georgette, chiffon, beads. Brown leather, neoprene. Animalier inlaying with cartoon-style tigers and panthers (also found in costume jewelery).
Golden accessories (pochettes, sandals, half boots…).
The soundtrack for the fashion show includes a tribute to the memory of the great Whitney Houston, a homage to this beautiful and talented singer and actress who, as it happens, loved to wear Krizia.