Passing by and getting close. The Marni collection for fall 2016 has a pervasive sense of movement, ease and intimacy. The silhouette is soft and elegant: clothes flow loosely around the body, as if the fabric was draped or wrapped with minimum interventions.
Wrap-around coats have high slits that create mobile lines. A funnel-neck parka folds with graphic firmness, secured with snap buttons. Raw cuts highlight fragility and strength. Gathered-neck shirts are closed on the back and layered. V-neck wool blouses have frontal outsized pockets.
Buttonless shirts are wrapped on the chest, naturally. Hints of dry romanticism: a broken cuff; broken promise flower prints, cloud motifs. Double breasted coats fall vertically. Single pleat trousers of generous volume are gathered with a button on the ankle, drawing a gentle contour.
Fur provides texture: astrakhan, castorino. The castorino scarf completes the easy precision of the tailored suit. Balance is studiously unbalanced: shirts that get longer on the front; a flash of white buttons on the jacket with patch pockets and a high closure.
Inside-out construction are unexpected as they are pragmatic. Caps and sneakers contradict the elegance of the silhouettes, softly. Firm yet light fabrics carry the exact lines while flowing effortlessly: cotton poplin, wool fresco, double-faced felt, gabardine, viscose twill.
The palette is classic: an instinctive mix of blues, greys, military greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. Pinstripes run on shirting and suiting. The studious edit of elements and details projects calm. The message is up close and personal.