Missoni Men’s A/W 2016 collection symbolically narrates the tale of its nomadic man’s hypnotic excursion once he strays from the overland trail to trek the remote, mountainous lands of Ladakh. Imaginative anticipation, exploration and physical endurance are the foundation of a journey that erases all ties to place, time and convention while strengthening the desire for adventure amongst the imposing natural elements and spirited native culture. Soft tailoring, noble fibers, intense colors and ornate embroideries evoke these sentiments in a collection that is as much about sport as it is luxury.
Chunky cashmere and cashmere/silk blends, lightweight shetland wools and yak, alpaca and mohair fibers have been masterfully woven and knitted into stylish, utilitarian garments that can weather any winter chill while still allowing for relaxed movement. Shades of camel, amethyst and cinnabar with accents of turmeric and orange agate; sapphire and mineral brown with raids of turquoise and jade; and silvery gray, black and pewter with coral red and azurite blue handsomely encapsulate the aesthetic essence of traditional Ladakhi fabrics juxtaposed with the rugged outcrops and verdant valleys of the natural landscape.
Refinement and sport are key to this collection of pieces that impeccably transition from mountain encampments to urban navigation. Highlights include: two-piece, degradè sartorial suits created on Missoni’s heritage looms in Sumirago, loom-knit blazers, overcoats and gusseted hiking trousers that have been wefted with cashmere and loom-knit down-jackets that have been lined with an over-dyed technical cotton; fully-fashioned, quilted wool garments that have been padded with nylon filament; vests that have been hand-embroidered with ethnic coins; chunky-cable hand-knit cardigans seen with either a degradè effect or with an intarsia of a Ladakhi ibex; striped, macro-space-dye, cashmere pullovers and shaw-collar cardigans; a “short” parka made with space-dyed chain tape and bonded with a technical cotton and various knits embellished with fringe detailing.
This season’s collaborative projects are of a befitting nature. Diemme, Italian footwear manufacturer, has customized its classic Roccia Vet hiking boot, in leather and suede, using Missoni’s macro-space-dye knits for its cushion collar and laces. Porter, the Japanese luggage-and-accessories specialist, has used a specifically- created Missoni loom-knit on four of its most iconic bags: the 2-way garment bag, backpack, rucksack and tote. Converse’s 1970 High Chuck Taylor draws inspiration from 60’s hiking boots and features a Missoni chevron knit, suede inserts and a blooming effect for the rubber toe cap and sole.