Moschino 2017 Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall
The place: an ancient palazzo. The time: an indeterminate future. The collection: a curated clash between dystopia and hope presented by Moschino designer Jeremy Scott. For Pre-Fall and Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 we are on a mission. The models emerge into the scarlet glow of digital clocks set to countdown. The collection is half artful collision, half meaningful division.
The baseline uniform is military. Olive cotton drill and parachute silk are issued as jumpsuits, elongated MA1’s, field jacket skirts, and camouflaged combat separates. These are worn alongside webbing harnesses, combat boots and cavalry boots. Ripcords provide ruche and gather, a hooded wind-cheater is deployed as a ruffled dress, and that camo’s color-scheme is twisted from you-don’t-see-me to oh-please-do: but this much more than a by-the-numbers subversion of military gear.
Because – BANG – there are tulle-pumped evening gowns and tailcoats strafed with scenes of conflict. Elegance fighting back, beauty uprising. These scenes run from Italianate frescoes depicting the eternal struggles through to Transformer laser-lit panoramas of epic battles in space. Sometimes the decoration is a source of conflict: a fresco half painted over by heavy black brushstrokes, an olive drill evening gown or overprinted denim jacket daubed with the outline of roses.
There are other tensions, other ambiguities at play here too. Moschino-classic black leather biker pieces are cut in with panels of gold on back floral jacquard: hard and soft. Jeremy Scott is proud to have recruited Judy Blame to contribute his hand-hewn headpieces: berets strafed with metal hardware that resemble disassembled Swiss Army knives.
Beauty conjured up through the magic of feeling. Pre-Fall or Pre the Fall? From then, for now, until when? Beauty and freedom are worth fighting for. That marabou rainbow burns brightest when set against a dark background. This season Scott delivers an anti-uniform for whats to come. So rise up and get dressed before the clock counts down to zero.
Sat, January 21 2017 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2017-18 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 14th January 2017 8 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Sat, January 14 2017 » Fashion Blog
Sat, September 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
“YOU’VE GOT TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST TO REACH THE VALLEY OF THE DOLLS”
Way before Barbie there were paper dolls: 2D, hand-drawn mannequins delivered on the page with their own illustrated wardrobes. For his Spring Summer 2017 Moschino collection, Jeremy Scott finds inspiration in this original game of cut and paste for girls of taste.
Plus to muster that sweet, hard rush of insta-gratification for this season’s instantly-shoppable offering, Scott turns to another genre of ‘Dolls’ – as Jacqueline Susann termed them in her scandalous novel of 1966. It’s a capsule collection with a powerful dose of capsules.
Deploying trompe l’oeil detailing, angled illustrative flourish, and a first-look ’til last-look motif that echoes the white tabs of the original paper dolls, the collection is a Moschino-flavoured reverie on the ceremony of personal facade. It begins with a spaghetti strapped, slimly fitted shift dress that suddenly furls mid-calf to echo the foldable stand of the original paper dolls: its front is illustrated to make the wearer seem deshabille, in black bra and panties. She is the template, ready to be outfitted.
Early looks echo the joyous source code of the house’s creator: Franco Moschino’s signature black on red polka dot, his chains, that peace sign, those teddy bears. But those pearls are flattened panels, that bling is painted on, and those bears ain’t there. Whimsically subversive agit-chic. Dada-touched irreverence. A sly examination of stereotype that extends to the set: the gold chairs with red-velvet cushions, an intimate, half-raised, red-carpeted runway. A boldly old school reset.
What you see and what you get are never in sync. An apparently half shrugged-on trench coat, with a wickedly manicured hand just visible at its lapel, is nothing of the sort. What is ostensibly a capelet in pastel paint-by-numbers floral that seems to balloon below it certainly isn’t. Keep looking.
Scott takes a trip. Hoodies and sweats, quilted and chain-strewn leather minis, faux-kini bodies, Daisy Duke fishnet leggings, bikers and bombers, logo sportswear, washed denim: is this the real life, or just fantasy? The capsule of capsule strewn handbags, backpacks and dresses – plus a prescription pillbox clutch – hints at escape from reality.
The finale is a procession of augmented unreality eveningwear. Ruche and swoosh and swirl frozen in a 2D moment, yet 3D real. An interplay of true and skewed. From the front, a sugary hit of colour and flounce given hyper-real definition though illustrative steroid. From the back though, a blank. Paper dolls.
Fri, September 23 2016 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Spring Summer 2017 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 22nd September 2016 8 PM. Stay Tuned…!!! #JUSTSAYMOSCHINO
Thu, September 22 2016 » Fashion Blog
Thu, April 7 2016 » Fashion Blog
ART FOR ALL
With thanks to Gilbert & George
When Jeremy Scott visited Gilbert & George for tea, the designer told the artists how he loves the way clothes appear in their monumental body of work, The Pictures. To create depth and movement or, at least, this illusion in these gridded, saturated 2D photographic assemblies, the artists emphasise the dark indentations of shadow and flashes of light at fold and seam.
Might, Scott respectfully enquired, they consider allowing Moschino to recreate the effect on real clothing? To add their 2D to Scott’s 3D, then see what dimension we land in? Not only were Gilbert & George 100 per cent in, but they also invited Scott to sample anything he desired from their illustrious archive of work for this collection. “How thrilling Jeremy loves our art so much he wants to put it all over his trousers!” they said.
Scott added: “There are so many reasons why Gilbert & George’s work resonates so strongly with me: the saturated colors, the slogans, the provocative nature of so many of their subjects. I feel not only a visual attachment to their art but an emotional bond as well. So it’s an honor to bring their art into my fashion and create a hybrid of the two.”
The result? A highly wearable body of work that revels in the punch and dissent of British Art’s filthiest, responsibly-suited iconoclasts as interpreted in cloth by fashion’s pre-eminent subverter of the pop and iconic. From The Pictures there are collaged coats, knit cardigans and MA-1 jackets with patches of the artists’ images of young men’s faces. You’ll see typography, words and phrases from Gilbert & George’s art.
A further group with tailcoats and sharp suits is peppered with crucifix patches that recall their 1982 piece entitled YOUTH FAITH. The tightened grids and grenade flower-bursts on suits and bombers strongly relate to the walls of the Tate. Scott found one G&G subject captured for posterity, wearing a vintage Moschino peace-print tee: so, in a doubly-reflexive semiotic pirouette, Scott reappropriated the print then twisted it into jacquards.
The house Moschino question mark logo is reflected over itself in a nod to that Gilbert & George touchstone. And Scott assembled his own hyper-colour collage of the artists’ abstract images on woollen topcoats, jeans and M-65’s. Because both artists and designers are anti-establishmentarians to their cores, there’s a fiery blast of punk and plenty of future-facing gender crossover.
Just as in the work of Gilbert & George, the more you look, the more you’ll see. As the artists sometimes say: “the whole world should be an art gallery”. With a runway attached…
Wed, April 6 2016 » Fashion Blog
Thu, March 17 2016 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2016 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 25th February 2016 8PM. Stay Tuned…!!! #ITSLIT
Thu, February 25 2016 » Fashion Blog
Moschino launches “Clothed For Construction,” the new capsule collection designed by Creative Director Jeremy Scott. Construction sites and street signs were the creative influence for a collection of garments and accessories that, for the first time – starting February 2014 – include unisex and men’s items.
The stop sign is modified to read SHOP: a cartoonlike fashionista symbol bearing human attributes, with feet dressed in pumps and hands grasping Moschino shopping bags, like an immediate call to stop and get shopping for the new must-haves of the season.
The DOUBLE CLAMP adopts the image of the clamp used on scaffolds as an iconic graphic element on wool and satin dresses, knitwear, sweatshirts, t-shirts, jumpsuit pants, small accessories and various models of bags, which range from the shopper to the bucket bag to the shoulder bag in quilted leather, which closes with a shiny plated metallic double clamp.
Finally, as the perfume “Toy” was presented last season, this collection will include a reference to “FRESH,” the new Moschino fragrance whose fun bottle in the shape of cleaning spray will be revealed on the runway the night of the show.
The selection inspired by this perfume pairs a t-shirt with the “fresh couture” print with an iPhone cover and a backpack in shape of a detergent bin.
Sun, January 24 2016 » Fashion Blog