Roksanda’s Spring Summer 2020 show will be taking place at the Serpentine Gallery and Pavilion for its third summer season, continuing to merge the world of art, architecture and fashion. Models will pass through and around the pavilion, designed this year by the architect Junya Ishigami. Ishigami has created a delicate slate canopy, which appears to defy gravity, hovering within the natural surroundings of the Serpentine garden.
Adding to the narrative of the season, Roksanda has created a vibrant flame coloured catwalk that criss-crosses through the gallery and over Serpentine’s garden, as a nod to the work of Cristo and Jeanne Claude’s ‘The floating Piers’. Roksanda’s story will unfold within this natural environment that captures her devotion to the exploration of architecture, colour, light movement and the recalibration of the vision of femininity.
The collection draws influence from the work of Mary Weatherford, in particular her body of work incorporating neon rods, which cast industrial light onto fields of colour. The concept of building colour and creating three dimensional form, is developed further through the re- interpretation of art posters that have been layered over time, slowly peeling to reveal what was there before, influencing ideas for print techniques, with double exposed imagery being exploded to a vast scale and subsequently printed and sprayed with colour.
Embodying the effect of a canvas that is still work in progress, these layered prints go through an additional process of being sprayed, painted and then pleated on long drop waist dresses and skirts layered with tailoring.
This season focus is on further exploration of tailoring, seen as relaxed luxurious day dressing, combining melange jersey and wool in soft, oversized elongated shapes that are layered with a more traditional super 130 menswear cloth. Sophisticated muted tones are layered together, added scarves details are integral to jacket necklines.
Soft muted palettes continue with trench coats, that are spliced with contrasting back panels. Utilitarian outerwear in the form of parkas have been slashed in bolder-ways, revealing internal facings and interior colour-blocking, in saturated candy pinks and crimson reds, snapdragon, ivory and flax.
Dramatic, voluminous dress silhouettes are created in cotton and taffeta, with a variety of fine accordion pleats giving an almost corrugated feel. Playing with perceptions of proportion and sculpture, exaggerated pleated collars spill over the shoulders and move freely when the wearer walks. These forms are off set alongside feminine draped jersey dresses, which are lean and sylphlike. Following the contours of the body, flowing from shoulder and hips alike, the body swathed in fine gauge jersey.
Fabrics this season are informed by these artistic processes, a traditional menswear tailoring with slubs mimics the look of an artists canvas, while metallic yarn is woven into taffeta to create a sculptural and crushed effect in gowns. Modernist details and craftsmanship continue in Roksanda’s bag range, this season the ‘Flat bag’ and the ‘box bag’ appear in shades of marron, petrol, stucco and snapdragon and the ‘Louise W’ can be seen in shades of snapdragon and olive.
In collaboration with Malone Souliers, the shoes that accompany the collection are made from soft leathers, toes are pointy and elongated, flat shoes and heals are spliced and colour blocked, and boots are slouchy with fine contrasting ties.
Maple leaf, ochre, arctic, mauve, stucco, flax, marron, candy, crimson, amber, snapdragon, cerulean, petrol.
Technical taffeta, super 130 wool tailoring, crushed metal taffeta, compact cotton outwear, silk satin, fine gauge jersey, double bonded crepe, wool jersey, bonded cupro.