Roland Mouret cites Irvin Kershner’s 1970s cult film ‘The Eyes of Laura Mars’ as the muse for his AW18 collection, portraying a type of voyeurism; a male gaze towards a modern woman, in control of her own image. The film’s production design is pure and ecstatic, the film stylish and fabulous, awash with paradoxes.
This sweeping influence translates into an intense collection full of seemingly strong contradictions, featuring baroque jacquard, lurex georgette and velvet corduroy. The dynamic variation throughout explores the hard, the soft, the strong masculine and reaffirmation of the strong feminine; a mature femininity that is rich in simplicity.
Roland reintroduces tailoring and the technicality explored in his early career, with orchestrations of volume and structure which sees outerwear in patent leather, alpaca and Prince of Wales check. Single and double-breasted jackets, trench coats and capes evolve with exposed stitching, frayed hems and oversized lapels.
Stepping away from his signature dress, Roland manipulates and uses his draping technique to create, as he coins it a ‘sexy, luxury day dress’ – a looser, A-line silhouette that sees soft fabric falling on the body. The flowing dresses are offset with heavy bomber style jackets and rich, varying textures, extolling the complexity of the collection.
Sheer knits add a light and delicateness to the offering, finished with ruffled collars, the pieces lending themselves to the dynamic duality of the collection. Further accessories of lace socks paired with sandals pay a playful homage to the pages of a 1970s Playboy Magazine and to the Fashion photographer’s work within the film, a nod perhaps too, to Roland’s mantra of “…we all dress to undress”.
His collections ever evolving, the designer listens to women. Roland Mouret proves that there is practicality in femininity, and femininity is a woman’s greatest power.