One Nation Under a Groove.
The words of George Clinton and Funkadelic deliver a message of harmony and unity, translated by designer Chitose Abe to her Spring ‘20 collection; a response to the disharmony in our world today and here unifying different wardrobe elements to make one harmonious, hybrid piece, while continuing her career-long quest to re-imagine what’s possible with silhouette.
Chiffon lavalliere blouse / pants / trench all incorporated into one dress. Coat / skirt / dress shirt, all joined as one, with a new, elegant harmony.
The map of the world and a motif inspired by cartography extends the theme – as embroidery on trenches, prints on dresses and playful, 3D fringe on knits and lady-like tweed, in forms reminiscent of the seven continents, with a spectrum of colour, from bright through to monochrome.
Rope belts and fastenings pull looks together, while making a new silhouette, the cord inspired by climbing rope, playing with the notion – held deeply and with hope and optimism – that humanity ultimately rises to a higher place.
“That rug really tied the room together”
Designer Chitose Abe riffs on her signature hybridisation, taking Dude from The Big Lebowski’s observation as her starting point to join two familiar forms together in a new way.
Tuxedo pieces make for a more elegant and sartorial perspective, playing with scale and de-constructing sacai-style. Two tuxedo shirts of opposing scales are ’tied together’ with a stitched on bow tie, left hanging open. Half belts ’tie together’ two coats or tailored jackets to make one new piece. An over-sized denim jacket is attached to a shrunken version of the same; a child’s size MA1 jacket is joined to an over-sized adult scaled version of the same.
Familiar forms are cut with a two-dimensional approach, void of the contouring and fabric wastage associated with traditional pattern cutting, creating a new draped silhouette when worn on the body; a new exaggerated, slouchy ease that’s reinforced by joining together clothing items to make one piece. A tuxedo shirt and pants re-imagined as a dress; pants and a shirt become one.
Taking inspiration from the utilitarian style of fishermen from a bygone era, whole hybridised looks are made from a single fabric, this time playing with the forms to create the juxtaposition. A t-shirt silhouette made of suiting fabric, with the fabrication’s original intent suggested by tailored jacket detailing at the hem, re-positioned pockets and suit lining sleeves.
Celebrating the archival prints of Hawaiian shirt legend Duke Kahanamoku with SUN SURF..
“One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind” – T-shirts made from newly developed Brewed Protein Blended sustainable fabric by Spiber, featuring graphics by Fabien Baron.
Sacai x Gramicci mountaineering pants, designed for maximum range of motion when climbing.
Previewing the next instalment of Nike x sacai sneakers.