For his Spring Summer 2017 collection, Anthony Vaccarello has let himself get carried away by the images of the designer, like ashbacks, snapshots.
In his mind, the picture of Paloma Picasso landing in the life of the couturier, with her 1940s’ second-hand clothes and her very own style. She inspired the 1972 “Scandal” collection which was irreverent and disturbing to the eyes of society.
It is this attitude that Anthony Vaccarello transposes in the present. This Saint Laurent woman who, today, draws her references from the 1980s to make them her own. This girl who cultivates a taste for what is kitsch, the bizarrely beautiful, the great classics and a highly individual style.
The starting point of this collection : a dress with exaggerated sleeves taken from the archives. From this thread, Anthony Vaccarello draws a contemporary silhouette, a sort of sensitive and personal collage.
As though this girl whose fashion culture is part of her, restructured the model, brought the shoulders down, attached a sleeve to a bustier, wore it with jeans or under a boy’s jacket – distant evocation of Saint Laurent’s sailor coat.
Corner stone of the fashion house’s lexicon, the tuxedo impregnates this collection. Exploring the tailoring savoir-faire of Saint Laurent’s ateliers, Anthony Vaccarello deconstructs and revises the tuxedo.
There is a second degree in this collection, a collection within the collection of what Mr. Saint Laurent loved above all: twisting bourgeois conventions and irting with bad taste.