Geometry and dynamism. Clarity and rhythm. The Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 15-16 collection by Massimiliano Giornetti revolves around an idea of unaligned rigour.
The overall simplicity of lines is stirred by controlled asymmetries, brightened by the material tactility of the surfaces, the juxtapositions of textures and densities; multiplied by graphic elements, underlined by contrasts.
The search for haute craftsmanship highlights one of the leading traits of Ferragamo aesthetics, the expression of manual dexterity alongside inventiveness and intuition, rigorous method and experimental freedom.
The silhouette is defined and vertical, with high waistlines. The clean and affirmative shapes splinter and move, crossed by diagonal lines cutting and structuring the silhouette.
Overlapping wraparounds, clean cut necks, and essential sheaths create a simultaneous succession of themes and variations. Athletic stripes run along tight-knit jerseys.
Or become pleats on tweed skirts, dematerialized by the weightless chiffon intarsia that only glimmer when stirred. Contrasting stripes mark hemlines.
Small, asymmetric cloaks and clean-cut long tabards convey a quest for extreme simplification, accentuated and contradicted by playful, contrasting interiors. Resin buttons with concentric circumferences, both functional and decorative, punctuate the figure.
The definition of surfaces is also geometrical and structural: a patchwork of mink intarsia or textured embroidery for lean coats; coloured marquetry creates rhythmical abstractions on chiffon gowns.
The palette is concentrated and captivating, full of harmonious contrasts: black, deep green, brown, touches of yellow, ivory, red, fuchsia. Materials are particular and inviting: wool crêpe, double cashmere, stretch jersey.
The idea of multiple materials and precise design stands out in the rigorous yet eccentric accessories. The sandals with sculpted heels are realised with combinations of crocodile, python, and suede.
Shoulder bags with rounded flaps pair mink with matte or shiny leather. Little cross-body bags designed in fur accompany striped bucket bags that reveal flashes of contrasting lining.
Knotted bracelets in metal and mink and belts in twisted origami seal the search for a blurred and whimsical accuracy.
For the Salvatore Ferragamo Fall Winter 2015 collection, Massimiliano Giornetti explores tactile elegance to stimulate the senses. Different elements are mixed to create a fabulous design: a fairy tale story made up of fantasy and creativity.
His narrative framework, fashioned by an intriguing language of symbols, animal motifs, stitches, and ties, is combined into a pristine men’s wardrobe.
The centre of this universe is filled with positive resilience and virile sensuality. Silhouettes are soft with relaxed and voluminous profiles. Surfaces owe their treatments to a skill of concentration and precision. Key pieces lay the blueprint for his wardrobe: tailored suiting, double- breasted jackets, blousons and outerwear including duffel coats.
The tailoring is neat and light. Against this backdrop are unexpected flashes of surprise; multi-coloured embroidery and leather patchwork create surreal animal motifs: zebras, flamingos, monkeys. Knitwear masters woven motifs intertwined with stitching or is intensely finished in lightweight treatments.
Striking three-dimensional coats are worn with cable-knit pullovers and big scarves: bold and ever-present, materials are central as the true protagonists. Unshakeable, traditional leathers and fabrics are permanently altered, transformed by artisanal handwork.
An emphasis on experimental craft techniques underlines and updates one of Ferragamo’s founding principles, a unique vision transcending time, with a foundation built by invention and innovation, rigorous methods and free associations.
The colour palette: woody and nocturnal. Shades of dark green, chestnut, deep red, black and melange grey are lit up by bright, decorative details.
The accessories are melded together, reflecting the intentional, unusual combinations and unexpected pairings portrayed throughout the collection.
Crocodile lace-ups and boots are reinforced at the toes and heels with natural leather emphasized by visible stitching; casting the illusion of blending footwear, the accumulative effect highlighted by contrasting textures.
Generously-sized duffels in various materials carry the motif, reworking Salvatore Ferragamo’s original bag for the modern gentleman.
The story is studded with miniature jewels in a decorative, narrative gesture where bronze and horn claws are used as buckles and brooches.