Sensuality and rigour. Gaia Trussardi contrasts sleek seduction with the aplomb of the uniform in the Trussardi Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection.
She looks to the minimalist movement from which she draws precision and expressive simplicity, but she gives it a contemporary twist by adding a fusion of different influences, contrasts and unexpected elements.
The result is vibrant, dazzling purism that focuses on the woman with her inalienable individuality, dressing her in glamorous clothes with shimmering futurist touches.
The silhouette is sleek and clean yet full of contrasts. The body – agile and dynamic – is perceived underneath garments with simple silhouettes, revealed by light, transparent fabrics and accentuated by restrained asymmetries.
Oversized coats with dramatic martial allure, caban jackets and short menswear-style jackets are worn over slip dresses and camisoles that follow the body’s curves and movements and are made of amazing and totally unexpected plongé nappa leather.
The sensual simplicity of boned tops and bustiers inspired by corsetry contrasts with the severity of the outerwear, with the cool shimmer of Lurex, and with the tactile textures of bulky rustic sweaters featuring different knit patterns made of yarn with metallic glimmers.
The continuous use of contrasts creates a seductive tension. Subversive touches break the ranks: multiple bracelets are worn and craquelé leather is given a metallic sheen. Top-stitching normally used on gloves becomes a precious and distinctive detail on garments.
The stars of this collection are the materials – plongé leather, glove leather, teaseled felt, and double cashmere cloth – enhanced by the simplicity of the design.
The color palette is natural with mineral glimmers: shades of nude, cream, gray, and spicy green with flashes of copper and bronze.
Accessories are pragmatic yet luxurious: open-toe booties and shapely boots with chunky metallic heels, saddlebags, bucket bags, briefcases, and patterned clutches.