Family as tribe. The fast modernity of Milan, with no nostalgia. And the cult of Italian savoir-faire, from the quality of the materials to the mental attitude of doing everything well and with style. Multi-ethnic, unrestrained by function or role, the Trussardi Fall Winter 2018/19 Men’s and Women’s Collection is writing a new aesthetic language dedicated to an urban gang of guys and girls, fictional and yet real, caught between tradition and contemporary revolutions. An antithesis? No, just the opposite: their way of dressing, their clothing is in fact the synthesis, the crasis, perhaps the solution to continuity between these two worlds.
First of all the Trussardi clothing collection, where each piece become elements: the oversize coat constructed to perfection, the trousers with a wide, perfect line, the fluid skirt with a split, the essential knitwear, the sartorial Blazer, the Biker jacket. And the leather: of the highest quality, handmade or glittery, brightened up with prints or woven into tartan patterns. And again embellished with markings like imaginary punctuation.
These are the milestones of Trussardi style, intentionally timeless, that shatter the distinction between city and mountains, daywear and casualwear. The tartan comes in all sizes, from micro to macro, popping up in every category, from day to evening. Prints of mountains or skiers go from the most athletic pieces to sleek eveningwear, overturning classic usage. And the colours, chosen from the shades of light that separate dawn from day and dusk from night, lend new depth to the iconic pieces in the collection.
The silhouettes are all vertical, large, often highlighting the waist with an air of solemnity. The lines, on the other hand, are fluid, fast and dynamic. It is a style oxymoron that can bring together agility and sophistication, references from yesterday’s wardrobe and the disenchanted attitude of today’s metropolitan tribes.
Accessories are the frame for making the message even clearer. Maxi unisex pouches and backpacks in technical fabrics. Extra-large shoppers in printed leather or personalised with embroidered logos and fur details. The bag with a three-compartment interior in various colours and interchangeable straps is the result of the finest Italian craftsmanship.
The greyhound is stylised and becomes a new thin closure with a dual purpose: a shoulder strap or top handle. Finally the shoes: the men’s model, iconic and very traditional with the tongue and two side buckles, lends its form to the ladies’ new mid heel styles. And for the men, deck shoes, another icon from the classic wardrobe, are revisited in a creative way that overturns the boundary between sportswear and formal wear.