The collection’s starting point is Ireland and the Irish Wren Boys who traditionally would hunt the Wren on St Stephen’s day. They would go to people’s houses and knock on doors to sing to ask for money. The grand old houses of Ireland now in faded repairs. With peeling wallpaper prints and dusty blues, broken plates and crockery drummed like tin cans. Dancing through towns and playing instruments.
Showing in a Victorian theatre originally opened in 1875 and recently reopened and restored in Alexandra Palace, with the original faded walls and high ceilings … I want to it to feel like they are coming to knock down doors….come in and parade in a circle. Marching through in heavily lipped brogues and studded pearls.
The fabrications are inspired by the interiors of the houses the Wren Boys knocked on, translating into peeling wallpaper prints printed on silk taffeta, faded blue Delph is embroidered onto ivory tulle and printed scallops on organza patchworked into garments. Organzas are embroidered with Broderie Anglaise daisies and Mulberry berries.
Tailoring is introduced through embroidered lace taffetas and technical trench cloths. Pieces that are deconstructed, with dresses balancing masculinity and femininity. Layered like feathers, like feathers of a Wren. The fairy wren with its blue and white tail. Silk brocade suits woven like fine upholsterers and feathery light Cloqués. Dress coats and dropped frill suits, a uniformity of frills.
Hand-macramé aprons in hay and raffia worn as harness and dresses. Layered over embroidered tulle lace pieces. Ending with exaggerated shapes and portions explored within the collection.
With a cast of Irish characters including theatre actress Olwen Fouéré, Jessie Buckley, Simone Kirby, Charlene McKenna, Valene Kane and beyond with Tia Bannon and Lesley Manville….creating a cast alongside the girls and boys parading to the Wren.
Mon, September 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Boys and Girls
Combining men’s and women’s on this season’s runway, S/S 20 explores duality while continuing to define the concept of easy, elevated wardrobe dressing for the 3.1 global citizen. Utility, youthful tailoring, cut, volume, print and color find commonality in both collections, expressed in distinctly nuanced ways.
Utility and flou engage in harmonious dialogue, highlighting the novel elements introduced this season – new shapes, exaggerated proportions and innovative core fabrics, always building on seasons past. Utility features prominently in day and new evening silhouettes with buoyant shapes for women, and underscores a seasonless, elevated uniform for men, revealing the purposeful construction of a garment’s interior details.
A leather group and a fluid lacquered finish fabric create a soft tailoring effect in womenswear, and subvert traditional menswear, deconstructing tailored pieces and referencing performance sportswear.
A printed group features an over printing technique that creates imperfections in the print and negative space in the garment, revealing beauty in typically hidden spaces. Women’s prints – inspired by Warhol’s Daisy screen prints – are whimsical and abstracted, while men’s prints – inspired by Rauschenberg’s Combines and by old postcards of road travel and the American West – offer a more literal interpretation.
Women’s fil coupé with prints trapped in organza carries over from Pre-Spring 2020, and links back to transparent netting details in this season’s accessories. A slash detail in women’s tailored and knitwear pieces lends movement to utilitarian separates. New women’s shoe styles, including espadrilles and mules, feature cage and mesh transparencies, and stud and ring embellishment details.
The Alexa, a core shoe, is presented in a deconstructed version with cutouts, while the Alix builds on its signature paperclip ornament detail with the addition of two new styles – the Flatform sandal and a slide. The Odita Lattice Pouch is a new addition to the Odita bag family, while the Alix chain bag is updated with a slightly modified shape and new magnetic closure detail.
The brand’s “cool, easy, chic” mantra is further defined for S/S 20 in directional silhouettes, fabrications and styling. “Clothing is our medium, and wardrobe is the medium through which I can communicate values that are important to me: craft, diversity, purpose and hope. These are the values we share at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the values we aspire to that will manifest true beauty.” -Phillip Lim
This season, as ever, we celebrate community and the wider 3.1 Tribe by partnering with like-minded brands who champion beauty with responsibility, and share our pursuit of achieving a sustainable balance. For S/S 20, we are proud to partner with artist and designer Ariana Boussard-Reifel, whose sculptural jewelry is informed by a sense of wanderlust and strong cultural references. Each piece is ethically and sustainably made by hand in her New York studio.
With UZ, a newly launched global beauty brand committed to using safe, sustainably-sourced ingredients that are never tested on animals. With Just Water, a packaged water brand making conscious material choices that help people and the planet. We also continue our partnership with Aveda, a pioneer in championing sustainable, environmentally friendly practices and cruelty-free hair and beauty products.
This season, Aveda and 3.1 Phillip Lim are taking steps to make backstage more beautiful by minimizing single-use plastic, ensuring recycling is readily available and offsetting a portion of the carbon emissions from the show to lessen its environmental impact.
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Rag & Bone unveiled a new concept to celebrate its return to New York Fashion Week, with a showcase of the brand’s spring/summer 2020 collection. The decommissioned stock exchange trading floor at Skylight on Vesey, provided an iconic New York backdrop for an experience that furthers the brands focus on challenging the status quo.
Rag & Bone was born out the desire to create unique products and experiences through the fusion of contrasting aesthetics. No stranger to breaking the mold, the proposition of the brand was brought to life through the collaboration of creative forces tapped from the worlds of fashion, music and technology. This new experience saw each of these disciplines collide while working in perfect harmony.
Drummers Joey Waronker and Mauro Refosco (Atoms For Peace) spotlit on center stage set the tone with The Brooklyn Youth Chorus while two dancers brought the vision of Choreographer Damien Jalet (Suspiria, Anima) to life through movement across the circular runway.
In contrast to the flowing human movements of the performers, a UR10 robot joined the moment, slowly awaking and observing the audience and performers. Together man and machine moved in sync, with video captured by the robot using a live action feed and point cloud capture (computer vision). Broadcast in realtime on screens throughout the space the robotic arm and dual-camera techniques provided the audience with a novel way to see the show.
The Rag & Bone SS20 collection is a journey through different aesthetics and an exploration of brand tenets, American workwear, English inspired tailoring, military and sport. The fusion of these contrasting silhouettes, fabrications and color creates an unexpected mix, resulting in an eclectic offering that is uniquely Rag & Bone.
The attitude of the brand is brought to life through the focus on effortless, easy wearing pieces. With function at the forefront, each stand on their own or mashed up with opposing silhouettes and reference points to provide the wearer with a uniform-like expression of their individuality.
Intentionally swaying away from defining gender, the focus is shifted to the unique identity of each character—with the entirety of the men’s and women’s collections used to create the looks.
The collection opens with bold tailoring and knitwear, refreshed through the use of banker stripes and regalia inspired detailing. Masculine mixes with feminine through the use of oversized Savile Row-esque silhouettes, while tennis sweaters are reconditioned in fisherman-rib knits with bold regalia v-neck stripes, providing versatile pieces for the wearer.
Lighter technical fabrications, layered with scarf-like angular monochrome graphics are seen across dresses, underpinnings and skirts while the brand’s expertise in denim is apparent through the use of washed Japanese selvedge in jeans, shorts, shirting and gilets.
Track style striping and Hawaiian floral-camo prints add pops of color and contrast to the soft hues of Japanese military worked into the offering. Safety orange further brightens the palette with flashes in jackets and pants while soft pinstripe tailoring and seam sealed lightweight outerwear add versatility and comfort from the elements.
The experience was delivered to the audience set to an unexpected musical fusion of the Waronker/Refocsco percussion and the eerily melodic tones of the Brooklyn Youth Chorus, with a rendition of Nina Simone’s “Sinnerman” accompanying the models through the finale.
“Contrasts & Perspectives” was designed to animate the Rag & Bone aesthetic, while amplifying the brand values of creating authentic and innovative experiences through the fusion of contrasting disciplines.
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sies Marjan presents its Spring ‘20 Women’s Collection in New York. The palette, taken from make-up and nail polish colors, is elaborated upon in lavish new silhouettes and through an exploration into vol- ume and draping. Strong attention to craftsmanship reflects a desire for a sophisticated and exquisite wardrobe.
From Creative Director Sander Lak: “This collection is a rejection of irony, bad taste, satire, reality TV, and kitsch. It celebrates the beauty of having the time and freedom to create and consider your choices… the antithesis of rushing.”
Lak utilizes denim in new and unexpected styles and shapes. Unwashed and untreated basic denim is tailored as if it were a fine wool into sharp suiting, while soft, bleached denim is draped into elegant dresses and fluid trench coats.
A fascination with the look and feel of animal skins leads to stunning textures — crocodile-embossed double duchess satin and airy reptile-embossed silk — in majestic navy and sun-kissed apricot hues. Lacquered crocodile-embossed leather, reminiscent of glassy lip gloss, pops in shades such as vibrant red, rich emerald, sumptuous vanilla, and deep navy.
“I have a desire for the beauty of wealth and time, but never in excess,” says Lak. “Strolling over running. Quality over quantity.”
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, September 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, September 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Spring Summer 2020 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 19th September 2019 at 8.30 PM CEST. Stay Tuned…!!!
Thu, September 19 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Alberta Ferretti Spring Summer 2020 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 18th September 2019 at 06.00 PM ( CEST ). Stay Tuned…!!!
Wed, September 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 further explores Viktor&Rolf’s notion of conscious design with emphasis on ‘Spiritual Glamour’. With the original meaning of the word ‘Glamour’ referring to that of a magic spell, an illusion said to be cast by witches. In this case, the spell is cast to transform a general feeling of doom about the environment into positive action.
Joining forces with Dutch artist-alchemist Claudy Jongstra, this collection illustrates that change for the better is indeed possible. For several decades now, Claudy has been a trailblazer of sustainability. Her hand felted fabrics are works of art, woven from wool of her own flock of sheep and dyed with natural ingredients from her own gardens. Her holistic approach demonstrates how man and nature are interconnected. A longstanding source of inspiration, it is our privilege to collaborate with this exceptional artist this season.
This collection focusses on the colour black, not just any black, but a multitude of tones centering on the darkest colour of the spectrum. Dyed by Claudy Jongstra in a gently simmering cauldron with plant pigments, her extensive knowledge and experimentation allowed for the re-discovery of the long-lost creation process the famous ‘Burgundian Black’: the most precious of true blacks based solely on natural ingredients and ancient recipes. The products of her eco-aware practice are used in a series of sculptural coats in an array of voluminous shapes.
The mood is pagan. Black felt coats give way to a series of colourful dresses in fabrics of Viktor&Rolf’s own making: vintage garments and fabrics were disassembled to threads and re-constituted as needle punch, almost like abstract paintings. Elaborate patchwork, appliqué, and crochet cultivate a handmade, ‘do-it-yourself’, almost naive aesthetic.
With creatively embroidered symbols of the sun, moon and the stars, the collection is an ode to mother nature and her powers of spiritual glamour and ecological renaissance. Christian Louboutin boots in a complementing palette complete this season’s Haute Couture AW19 look.
Tue, September 10 2019 » Fashion Blog
CHARMS OF CHINA
Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019/2020
The ELIE SAAB Autumn/Winter’19-20 Haute Couture collection finds a wealth of inspiration from China and East Asia, whose cultures are rich in symbolisms, drawings that have intrigued for centuries, and stories that have been passed down through generations. Elements highlighting nature, mystical creatures and divine characters sparked the curiosity of the designer, inspiring him to translate them into his very own art.
Using signature embroidery techniques and knowhow, ELIE SAAB reimagined mesmerizing traditional Chinese drawings, to create patterns in sequins, diamante and explosions of colour, that are the Maison’s abstract depictions of fauna and flora. Key elements believed to represent powerful protective spirits who watch over those who carry them, like guardian angels.
Throughout the collection, strong shapes and volumes are balanced out with softer fabrics, and plays on transparency, that also allow the vibrant and intricate embroidery to pop out, effortlessly drawing a timeless tale of goddesses from one piece to another.
Connoting wisdom and elegance, the crane appears as an elongated figure surrounded by floral shapes that adorn long, sleek and structured dresses that overlay tulle, tafta and feathers in plum, gold and powder pink.
Expressing a tougher attitude, the carp fuses with wave-like forms on more straight-cut silhouettes in black and gold, with large satin bows tied at the waist, and oversized sleeves that create powerful volume and movement.
The dragon makes its protective presence felt, adding a hint of mysteriousness to the woman who bares its forms, from ornate kimono-style jackets, to imperial red and jasmine pieces in rich combinations of velvet and satin.
The collection also puts emphasis on blown-up and fan-shaped shoulders, that allude to heavenly wings. Draped sleeves and capes that descend off-the-shoulder, leading into long trains that flow to the ground, create the illusion of angelic forms.
Imperial-inspired amulets, topped with a dragon, come in to further capture the essence of this faraway inspiration, along with golden accessories featuring leaves and feathers that are complemented with ruby-red, blue and emerald stones, taking the form of earrings and tri-circle crowns. The high heels are a combination of gold leather counters, divine velvet at the toe, and transparent, diamond-studded straps.
The elements masterfully portrayed and delicately stitched to every piece allow this ELIE SAAB Autumn/Winter’19-20 Haute Couture collection to draw from inspiration and imagination, to create its unique take on the undying mysteriousness of women. Women who shine in their softness and elegance, but who are also the embodiments of strength and power, inherited from their divine protectors.
Tue, September 10 2019 » Fashion Blog