CELEBRATING MOSCHINO’S 30TH ANNIVERSARY
To celebrate the fashion house’s 30th anniversary, Creative Director Rossella Jardini wished to pay tribute to the memory of founder Franco Moschino by re-interpreting all the iconic themes that have inspired his aesthetic vision. She presents an exclusive mise en scène that plays on the double spirit of the contemporary woman, the good and evil.
Opening the show are the designer’s 4 favorite models: Pat Cleveland (strapless dress with Italian flag and cow, fall winter 85/86), Violeta Sanchez (coat with teddy bears, fall/winter 88/89), Amalia (Italian flag dress, fall/winter 88/89) and Giselle Zelauy (garbage dress, spring/summer 94) , who wear symbolic garments from the Maison’s archives. Then they leave the scene to the spring/summer 2014 collection with a series of female characters that describe the same woman in her “good” & “bad” versions.
The nun, the maid, the playmate, the biker and many other varied personalities reveal a creative duality that alternates street-glam style with a bon chic, bon genre spirit, through a collection that is elegantly easy, accessible and, at the same time, highly refined, and speaks to all women.
Between the memory of Franco Moschino and the look towards the present and future of the Maison, Rossella Jardini offers must-have pieces like the leather jacket with a heart or dotted with shiny studs, the iridescent bouclé jacket with large metallic zippers and chain bracelets on the cuffs, pearl embroidery on lightweight, see-through dresses, refining the most delicate looks with patterns of colored roses printed or embroidered on fabrics in white, black and red. Hearts, pearls and chains. Raised lettering with the logo letters in shiny metal and gold, on both the clothes and the accessories.
A rhythm that brings together different shapes and distinctive details, from “cropped” silhouettes and long petalled cuts, from striped patterns and Vichy designs, from flirty culottes and sophisticated organza dresses, completely hand-embroidered and trimmed with ruffles and large flounces.
And for the grand finale, highlighted by the live voice of Gloria Gaynor singing I AM WHAT I AM, the historical models return to the scene to introduce a series of 11 more vintage looks:
Pat wearing a red dress with black polka dots, spring/summer 84
Violeta wearing an upside down strapless jacket dress, spring/summer 88
Amalia wearing the Holy Chic dress, fall/winter 93/94
Gisele wearing the Gazzetta Dello Sport dress, spring/summer 93
Alek Wek wearing the “question mark” dress, spring/summer 98
Alana wearing the “De Gvstibvs Non Est Dispvtandvm” t-shirt and a skirt with hearts, spring/summer 94
Erin O’ Connor wearing the dinner jacket and the Kaos skirt, spring/summer 94
Jodie Kidd wearing the” gorilla” dress, fall/winter 94/95
Diana D. wearing the chain jacket and the “NIENTE” t-shirt, fall/winter 88/89
Natasha wearing the shopping bag dress, fall winter 87/88
Catherine McNeil wearing bathing suits bearing the written motto LA CLASSE NON È ACQUA, spring/summer 87
Meanwhile, a tableau vivant takes shape in the background.
Like the footnote of a timeless tale that celebrates this important anniversary, weaving a precious thread between the story of yesterday and the passionate present that is MOSCHINO.
Thu, October 31 2013 » Fashion Blog
Iceberg © Copyright 2013
SPRING/SUMMER 2014 WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION
A revolution as to aesthetic, codes and direction. It’s a return to the brand’s roots, with a strong innovative and icononclastic spirit, no sense of nostalgia. The new spring/summer 2014 Iceberg women’s collection designed by Alexis Martial signals the beginning of a profound change.
Right from the start, the principle of the uniform so dear to Iceberg takes hold. Merging with a Manga aesthetic, it sparks the idea of a boy scout journeying toward Harajuku, Japan. These two universes are clearly highlighted by the use of the color white, which plays a central role in this theme where quasi-couture structures are always fresh and fun.
Inspired by Japanese pop culture, the brand name shows up in pictographic lettering along with the abstract design of an iceberg. In form of embroidered patch or holographic reflector, it appears as if a signature on a variety of items, so creating a leitmotif cutting across the whole collection.
For example, on a baggy streetwear type sweat: other element marking the brand’s archives, though now in the freshest of styles thanks to innovative materials. Leather and neoprene closely coupled with fine muslin turn the latter into a wonderfully edgy basic.
An ultra sheer nylon knit fabric, product of a special textile process, covers print or embroidered dresses to create the impression of an iridescent jellyfish. Lastly, there are clothes more in the way of couture with streetwear accents. Funky volumes. Miniskirts draping on hips.
Impalpable silk muslin dresses with iridescent rhodoid bands and – on top – black knit gilets or aprons evoking a factory or workshop context. Accessories reinforce the distinctly contemporary Nipponic feel of the collection, as in ankle boots and open-toe sandals with soft rubber sole.
Plexiglas studs, jewel-buttons add a luxurious touch to this playful work garb. Even collars come complete with a precious lacquer metal piece that mimics the classic boy-scout neckerchief.
Mon, October 28 2013 » Fashion Blog
Sat, October 26 2013 » Fashion Blog
Antonio Marras © Copyright 2013
Before there was earth or sea or the sky that covers everything, Nature appeared the same throughout the whole world, what we call chaos: a raw confused mass, nothing but inert matter, badly combined discordant atoms of things, confused in the one place.
Ovid, The Metamorphoses I 5,9
Balanced chaos, perfect disorder. Matter that changes and plays with shapes and volumes. Rules overturned, unstably solid balances. Imperfect, discordant, excessive. Complete, limpid, regular.
Rules respected yet broken. Clothes like leaves on which the times of change and mutation leave their mark. Caban jackets, jackets and blouses, only seemingly austere, reveal excrescences as if plates of armor had grown on the back as protection and a shield.
Tops, tunics, and skirts with apparently different shapes are similar and contiguous. Sisters. Daughters. Each born from the modification of the other. Colors reflect and evoke the dawn, fog, and glistening dew drops.
Powder pink, penicillin yellow, ash gray, dusty blue, swamp green, and fairytale pink. Luxurious embroidery, wild threads, transparencies, layering, perforated patent leather motifs, butterfly wings of cloth and chiffon, precious stones and grosgrain ribbon, lace, dentelle lace, Chantilly lace, and ruching alternate on different materials.
Radzimir organza with oversized motifs of flowers embedded in stripes and dots (that recall dreamy and familiar worlds). Olympian landscapes bursting with vibrant shapes and colors. Ecru and black intertwining, blending and clashing.
A blend of mesh, silver leather, fil coupe, satin, floral brocade, striped tapestry fabric, silk duchesse, cotton jacquard, and tulle on tulle.
I want to speak about bodies changed into new forms. You, gods, since you are the ones who alter these, and all other things, inspire my attempt, and spin out a continuous thread of words, from the world’s first origins to my own time.
Ovid, The Metamorphoses I 1-4
Fri, October 18 2013 » Fashion Blog
Anteprima © Copyright 2013
A GENTLE POWER
Spring and summer; Seasons of newness, boldness, innocence, joy and mystery.
A time for color and power: powder pink, aqua green, icy blue, off white, splashes of metallic silver, turquoise and rose gold.
A time for contrasts. Knitted softness vs textural flair, opaque vs transparent, chiffon vs leather, summer cashmere vs silk organza, pastel vs metallic, oversized vs waisted.
A time for a woman’s energy, feminine and forceful, sophisticated and playful, delicate and dramatic, sweet and independent.
On her soles: a high-heeled combination of PVC and metallic leather. On her waist: exquisite belts of shiny leather or wire. In her hands: the knitted splendour of the Wirebag.
Spring and Summer; A time of confidence, fun, and harmony. A time for the woman, to shine.
Mon, October 14 2013 » Fashion Blog
It’s late spring and the symphony of colors and smells is almost blinding.
The sun dazzles, lilac, bounganville, prickly pears, acacia, broom, sunflowers, lemons, a bunch of lavender and roses that release hundreds of scents.
A mesh of sun lying on the walls of houses, ecru of small beaches of sand and pebbles, gray of rocks, brown of mountains and shrubs, transparencies and sea crystals.
Here are the coasts of home again, the familiar coasts.
Sunshine and nuances agree with the clothes that Marguerite has brought with her from the long journey through the mare nostrum.
It was pleasant to stay for a while in a country with a mysterious grace and charm. Twines of traditions and layers of cultures.
The blue houses and the pink roof tiles and the walks in the early hours of the evening in the Moorish gardens, fountains and streets where a slow melody flows interrupted only by the sound of the minarets, all this remain etched in the memory.
She wears klein blue dresses with the stripes of his friend painter and the fauve flowers, cadmium yellow, milk white, multitudes of fields in flower, watercolored flowers and ferns magnified on white fields.
Marguerite is back home.
Immersed again in her familiar vegetation.
The green of her Mediterranean garden is luxuriant, intricate, variegated, invaded by the sound of the piano and, above all, populated by her loved white doves, life mates and guardians of secrets.
Special thanks to Floriana Di Carlo Photographer
Mon, October 7 2013 » Fashion Blog
SARA BATTAGLIA S/S 2014 HANDBAG COLLECTION
Sara Battaglia’s new collection of handbags is a contemporary rereading of Hollywood’s dolce vita allure and of the timeless beauty of ‘90s’ top models, among the most en vogue appointments and destinations from the international world of fashion. Amidst clean, essential lines, a geometric undertone highlights the value of Italian artisanship and the sophisticated and vibrant color palette.
On the edge between bon ton shapes, luxuriously exclusive materials and glam-chic details, the woman envisaged by Sara Battaglia takes her cue from past icons to reflect an ultra refined ideal whilst not forgetting unconventional touches, such as irreverent color-blockings and pony hair inserts on vintage-inspired silhouettes.
Exalted by innovative constructions, which blend in with enduring styles, the collection satisfies the needs of a modern, cosmopolitan lifestyle while responding to a desire for elegance & coolness; from day to night, from business meetings to free time, for the city or for exclusive cocktails at the beach.
Measured yet exuberant aesthetics adorn feminine shapes, with a retro ‘40s undertone and evergreen silhouettes by Sara Battaglia: Monica, extremely elegant and at the same time perfect for the day; Ladyme, with a bowtie-style fastening; Sylvia, featuring small crown ornaments, that also double as a handle, on the top part of the bag; Cindy, characterized by elegant proportions and a multi-colored fold; and Verushka, Anita, Clutch Mirror and Jasmine, embellished by wavy fringe appliqués.
These long cascades of leather fringes stand out as signature details that have distinguished Sara Battaglia’s most iconic creations from the start, used as piping on shoulder straps of the different Teresa models, where voluminous shapes alternate with small, evening clutches.
Precious pearls dot the surfaces like ornament-jewels, on both day and evening bags in pastel or metallic-gold hues brought to life by small capsules inserted beneath the leather, creating new three-dimensional, luminous relief effects; whilst mirror-reflected diamonds illuminate clutch bags with high-impact metallic frames mounted on the inside.
The contrast between the sweet soul and strong personality of it-girls and it-women imagined by Sara Battaglia is underscored by her juxtaposition of different materials, including soft leather and rigid bold elements, rigid nappas and wavy fringes, laminated touches and delicate satins, all the way to enameled brass shoulder straps and plexiglass layerings on triangular metallic fastenings, yet another symbol of femininity and an increasing distinctive feature of Sara Battaglia’s work.
Wed, October 2 2013 » Fashion Blog
Tue, October 1 2013 » Fashion Blog